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Old 08-30-2018, 06:19 PM
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Matt@BOS Matt@BOS is offline
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Okay, time for a few photos, and some tech! If you're building a car, or sorting one out, hopefully this info might be of use.

The Art Morrison front Subframe bolted right into the car. To run the Dailey dry sump we had to notch one of the motor mount stands on the AME subframe. We also machined a set of offset aluminum bushings for the rack in order to drop it down a little and get its lines to clear underneath the dry sump pump. We may decide to go with a Woodward unit in the future. I had a DSE 20:1 rack. Its been very reliable, but it feels like there is a little squishyness to it (maybe bushings are partly to blame). I installed an AGR 15:1 unit before running LS Fest West, which was the final event in the car before rebuilding it. Steering was noticeably faster and more "direct" feeling. Maybe its just me, but the initial turn in on the 20:1 rack is vague and difficult to feel. Once it is turned in, it seems much more precise when adding steering input. Before you guys tell me that its bushings or slip angle in the tires, I tested back to back.

Next up on the suspension, would be the billet 1" drop spindles from Lateral Dynamics, along with prototype adjustable A arms. These arms allow for fine tuning camber, caster and track width.

I also put together a splined Speedway engineering swabar and drop down mounts so that the bar will not interfere with, or limit steering angle. After a bunch of testing and measuring, we found that the tie rods would be the first thing to hit at full lock. With a pair of rack limiters, I think we would be able to run a 12" wheel up front, and be in board enough to turn the tires at a low ride height without hitting the fenders.

I also redid part of my exhaust for ground clearance. At some point I'm going to change header flanges.









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1969 Camaro - always broken GM Design winner
1965 Mustang - widebody fastback
2006 Coyote swapped "Rental Car"

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