Question for those that have owned Shelby Cobras/replicas

[GregWeld]

It such a "similar" car and feel and drive --- top down -- side exhaust blasting the best bass in history.....


However ---- a drop top WITH windows (vs the Cobra's nothingness) --- means you can USE the car --- and with A/C -- trust me - you get real tired of the heat on a trip and the sun beating on your head and the bugs in your teeth (remember I've owned MANY of these - and done 1000's of mile trips in them -- and my roadsters etc).... It's very nice to have OPTIONS......

If you really want the full monty --- get a 400hp tri-power with A/C or the 390 Hp version -- for that torquey big block feel that only big cubic inches can provide.

For my money ------- a BBC side pipe - A/C drop top..... Oh yeah buddy!

[fleetus macmullitz]

Nice appearing L79 car with the N14...sounds awesome.



Greg,

I'm glad you mentioned the big block models. I prefer those too.

Is it tough to keep them cool, both from an engine cooling perspective and the interiors? Or does the a/c take care of the later issue?

Also, what about cowl shake on the roadsters?

Thanks.

[GregWeld]

They're ALL hot floorboards ---- side exhaust doesn't help that either -- but so worth it. I drove with AC on - turned to my feet (use the heater settings to direct airflow). On a long trip on a hot day ---- yeah ---- you can basically burn your feet. LOL

There's cowl shake in every roadster ever built - get over it. It's nothing that will bother you - unless the car is some kind of complete POS rebuild. Obviously if the car is done wrong - it can be worse.

When I used to buy droptop '69 Camaro's ----- If I had 2 or 3 of them at a time -- I'd drive them all -- the one with the worst cowl shake would go down the road to the next idiot. They do all behave differently.


These cars drove differently when they were brand spanking new. NEVER EVER EVER NEVER buy a car you haven't looked at with your own eyes and DRIVEN YOURSELF. It's a 100K car -- spend $1500 on airfare and a hotel room. If you can't do that -- then you shouldn't be buying anything.

[GregWeld]

I've owned 6 or more mid year Corvettes --- and drove one daily back in the early 70's.... (it went down the road with 108,000 miles on it IIRC). I've NEVER owned one that overheated -- EVER. IF they do that -- there is something wrong with them.

Just because someone "restored" it - doesn't make it right. But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive.

Many of the so called "restored" cars --- if they don't have NCRS judging sheets --- can end up with the wrong fan - wrong radiator - wrong fan shroud. The A/C cars did NOT use the same fan that the Non A/C cars used! But if people don't know what they're doing ---- then they "restore" them with the wrong stuff. The BBC A/C cars used a SEVEN blade fan..... Can't tell you how many cars I've seen that are wrong.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

They're ALL hot floorboards ---- side exhaust doesn't help that either -- but so worth it. I drove with AC on - turned to my feet (use the heater settings to direct airflow). On a long trip on a hot day ---- yeah ---- you can basically burn your feet. LOL

There's cowl shake in every roadster ever built - get over it. It's nothing that will bother you - unless the car is some kind of complete POS rebuild. Obviously if the car is done wrong - it can be worse.

When I used to buy droptop '69 Camaro's ----- If I had 2 or 3 of them at a time -- I'd drive them all -- the one with the worst cowl shake would go down the road to the next idiot. They do all behave differently.

These cars drove differently when they were brand spanking new. NEVER EVER EVER NEVER buy a car you haven't looked at with your own eyes and DRIVEN YOURSELF. It's a 100K car -- spend $1500 on airfare and a hotel room. If you can't do that -- then you shouldn't be buying anything.

Oh I will be there, drive it, have an experts' help, etc.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I've owned 6 or more mid year Corvettes --- and drove one daily back in the early 70's.... (it went down the road with 108,000 miles on it IIRC). I've NEVER owned one that overheated -- EVER. IF they do that -- there is something wrong with them.

Just because someone "restored" it - doesn't make it right. But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive.

Many of the so called "restored" cars --- if they don't have NCRS judging sheets --- can end up with the wrong fan - wrong radiator - wrong fan shroud. The A/C cars did NOT use the same fan that the Non A/C cars used! But if people don't know what they're doing ---- then they "restore" them with the wrong stuff. The BBC A/C cars used a SEVEN blade fan..... Can't tell you how many cars I've seen that are wrong.

Greg,

I appreciate your great advice.

Likin' this.... But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive.


And like you said, look for a driver.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis

But a mid-year plus a/c etc should be enough to get my favorite person in the passenger seat...with the Cobra it's #nobueno.

Banya lives near you?!

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis

Greg,

I appreciate your great advice.

Likin' this.... But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive.


And like you said, look for a driver.

I'd look for a "driver" that has a CURRENT judging sheet ---- the reason for that --- even if it was a second flight car --- it's been looked at by super knowledgeable people and it would point out things such as it having the wrong fan... Then you can see if that was "corrected".

These cars need to be done RIGHT ----- and there are many models and many model differences. Unless you really know what you're looking at -- you can end up with a very expensive pile. These cars DO RUST --- they DO have frame parts that rusted -- and poorly repaired fiberglass - or who knows. You'll know in half a mile and by third gear - whether or not the car is going to be a great driver --- and there are Decent drivers -- there are good drivers --- and there are GREAT drivers..... and until you've spent some time in the seat -- you're not going to be able to know a "good" from a "great". You, or anyone, will know a pile.

When you read the descriptions on a place like Pro Team Corvette --- you'll note that Terry will describe a car as a "good" driver ---- or he'll use a word like EXCELLENT driver..... those might be easily glossed over by the unwashed. They're very very important words.

Also --- "matching numbers" vs the added description of ORIGINAL or BORN WITH or something such as that is another clue --- matching numbers just means the numbers match --- doesn't mean that it's the ORIGINAL NUMBERS MATCHING part (engine etc). That's a big part of the value for buying and for resale.... and we ALL resale.

NCRS now recognizes "restamped" blocks as a "restoration part" --- but that is worth 25K or much more in value. Just as they finally were forced to not deduct points for perfect bodies and modern paint.....

You don't need a Duntov car for a driver -- but those judging sheets are worth A LOT towards the value of a collector car --- and these ARE collector cars.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Banya lives near you?!

Ouch!



https://youtu.be/baJ_cOzOOfI

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I'd look for a "driver" that has a CURRENT judging sheet ---- the reason for that --- even if it was a second flight car --- it's been looked at by super knowledgeable people and it would point out things such as it having the wrong fan... Then you can see if that was "corrected".

These cars need to be done RIGHT ----- and there are many models and many model differences. Unless you really know what you're looking at -- you can end up with a very expensive pile. These cars DO RUST --- they DO have frame parts that rusted -- and poorly repaired fiberglass - or who knows. You'll know in half a mile and by third gear - whether or not the car is going to be a great driver --- and there are Decent drivers -- there are good drivers --- and there are GREAT drivers..... and until you've spent some time in the seat -- you're not going to be able to know a "good" from a "great". You, or anyone, will know a pile.

When you read the descriptions on a place like Pro Team Corvette --- you'll note that Terry will describe a car as a "good" driver ---- or he'll use a word like EXCELLENT driver..... those might be easily glossed over by the unwashed. They're very very important words.

Also --- "matching numbers" vs the added description of ORIGINAL or BORN WITH or something such as that is another clue --- matching numbers just means the numbers match --- doesn't mean that it's the ORIGINAL NUMBERS MATCHING part (engine etc). That's a big part of the value for buying and for resale.... and we ALL resale.

NCRS now recognizes "restamped" blocks as a "restoration part" --- but that is worth 25K or much more in value. Just as they finally were forced to not deduct points for perfect bodies and modern paint.....

You don't need a Duntov car for a driver -- but those judging sheets are worth A LOT towards the value of a collector car --- and these ARE collector cars.

Greg,

Some of the above I know, but I have a lot more to learn.

If you were to buy one in todays world, would it be the best driver you could find?

Or, an excellent pro-touring build?