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  #21  
Old 09-29-2016, 11:34 AM
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The rear was then raised up under the car and the control arms attached. There are bushings that center the arms in the pockets, and the arms have adjustable ends to achieve the proper pinion angle.



The front lower control arm mount uses the original leaf spring pocket to keep it secure. We’ll be running shorter bolts on these parts for final assembly as well.





Next, we applied some ARP Ultra-Torque lube on the threads of the aluminum coil-over shock absorbers to install the spring retaining collar without galling the threads.



Heidt’s chose a 300-pound spring rate for this Camaro application.



The shocks are adjustable units.



The shocks and panhard bar installed. The angle looks a little funky because the rear suspension is at full-droop, even though the coil-overs limit total travel.





The car will now be back on it’s wheels and will be moved into the body shop for bodywork. It’s a little out-of-order for us, but we’re on deadline and have a plan.
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  #22  
Old 09-29-2016, 06:07 PM
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Here in the V8 body shop, the Camaro will be further stripped of bolt-ons, and we’ll test out the paint to see what’s beneath.







This was a neat little detail behind the license plate bracket…





We started in the back buzzing down the paint and filler from the previous paint job with a DA sander. The good thing is that the car isn’t very rusty.



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  #23  
Old 09-29-2016, 06:11 PM
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However, we found some dents in the lower part of the quarters, and on the body line. We weren’t very concerned about them, but we did note that the steel is a little thin from being ground by previous bodywork.



Exposing a little more of the quarter revealed a previous patch panel just in front of the wheel.





The outline is the shape of a panel Adam planned to repair the rust and existing patch.



Adam used some body hammers, the English wheel, and other techniques to fabricate a repair panel.





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  #24  
Old 09-29-2016, 06:13 PM
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The new panel is held in place with Cleco clamps, and then a series of tack welds was used to weld it into place. The tack welds prevent heat buildup and warpage.



After the welding, some careful grinding blends the new panel into the old making a seamless repair.



Meanwhile, the body shop crew began sanding the paint with a dual action sander. We know this car is pretty solid, so it does not require stripping to bare steel.





The lower valance panel was removed, stripped, and body worked as needed.



Any problem areas are repaired (like the quarter panels), but the front sheet metal seems very clean. The plan is to leave the sheet-metal installed, get the panels aligned and straight, and prime the outside of the car. Then the car will be block sanded.





The body panels will then be removed, and the jambs and backsides of panels addressed This way, we will only be removing the panels and reassembling the car once because this job is very time sensitive.
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:38 PM
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The rear of the driver side quarter panel also needed some help. It had been pushed-in and pulled for repair, but the end of the quarter where it meets the tail panel had been badly distorted and torn.


We pulled on it with a stud gun for a few minutes, but determined the metal to be “overworked” and elected to make a repair piece instead.





A new piece was cut, formed, and trimmed to size. Then Adam tack-welded it in place.







After a little metal finishing, the correct contours have been returned to the quarter panel.


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  #26  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:41 PM
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After inspecting the passenger quarter panel, we decided it would be quicker to order a replacement quarter panel skin from YearOne then to hand-make a panel to repair the rust damage and previous patchwork.





Once our new panel arrived, Adam sized-up the repair area and removed the affected material along the body line to make the repair easier. We always recommend waiting for the new part to arrive before cutting so that you know exactly what you have to work with on the new panel.








This car had some issues, but not enough to warrant a complete quarter panel replacement.


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  #27  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:44 PM
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Here you can see the small repair in the wheel tub to replace the rust and damage.





Adam trimmed the new YearOne panel to fit, and installed the quarter panel trim to make sure it fit properly. By installing this trim now with the panel still being removable, he can access both sides should any hammer and dolly work be needed to help the trim fit the panel.





The panel is cleco clamped and vise-gripped in place for welding.





A series of tack welds made by the HTP MIG 200 welder “hot glues” the panel in place.





The panel is ground smooth.





Note the door-jamb area has been cut and re-welded to make a better door gap.





The rear of the passenger quarter also required the same fix as the driver side.


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  #28  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:45 PM
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The floor pan had a thin spot along with some pinholes in the driver side rear footwell. This is a common place for these cars to rust, as it’s the lowest point of the rear floor and becomes the bottom of a puddle should the car leak. And being a convertible, this car leaked.





A new floor repair panel was ordered from YearOne to replace the bad section.





The rusty piece was removed with a cutoff wheel.





The new panel was carefully trimmed to be a tight fit so that a butt weld technique could be applied. This would leave a seamless repair when completed.


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  #29  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:46 PM
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When the fit was satisfactory, the panel was protected with HTP weld-through primer.





The panel is held in place with HTP welding magnets while the perimeter is tack-welded in with an HTP MIG-200 welder. Tack welds keep the heat down and minimize warping.





Once welded, the edges are gently ground to blend the tack welds.





The finished panel installed with no evidence of a repair.





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  #30  
Old 12-07-2016, 10:08 PM
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Looks good Kevin.
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