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  #11  
Unread 07-17-2017, 06:19 PM
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Tom, the top hose already has a 45 on it it come out by means of a low clearance 90 to get it heading forward the the 45 connect to that to get it close to the engine. The back hose has a long straight fitting going to a 120 degree bend to get it up where the only room around the tubes.( One tube almost touches the motor.) The kick out on the oil pans is another reason for going up on the rear hose. Recoat $850
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Last edited by waynieZ : 07-17-2017 at 06:25 PM.
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  #12  
Unread 07-17-2017, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT69Cam View Post
Can you use a shorter spacer ?? A shorter spacer would bring you in tighter to the transmission. If the shift cable will hit the trans doing this, install the cable between the header and bracket. not as it is now, between the transmission and bracket.
There is no spacer on the trans shaft it is a 97-and newer design it has a long shaft'

I bent up a piece of aluminum to see if I could get enough room for it to fit. I'm going to try out of steel now.

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Unread 07-17-2017, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
There is no spacer on the trans shaft it is a 97-and newer design it has a long shaft'

I bent up a piece of aluminum to see if I could get enough room for it to fit. I'm going to try out of steel now.

Isn't that an octagonal spacer that the bolt screws into ?? Cut an inch off.
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  #14  
Unread 07-17-2017, 08:22 PM
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Are you talking about the 02 plug? that has an octagon head on it, I was going to try to find a plug with flat head.

sorry taking a long time to answer I'm out in garage.
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  #15  
Unread 07-17-2017, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Are you talking about the 02 plug? that has an octagon head on it, I was going to try to find a plug with flat head.

sorry taking a long time to answer I'm out in garage.
No, No, I'm referring to the spacer that is attached to the transmission that the bracket is attached to. The part that attaches the bracket to the trans. In the pic it looks octagonal, almost like a rod coupling. Is there a bolt screwed into it to secure the bracket ???
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  #16  
Unread 07-17-2017, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT69Cam View Post
No, No, I'm referring to the spacer that is attached to the transmission that the bracket is attached to. The part that attaches the bracket to the trans. In the pic it looks octagonal, almost like a rod coupling. Is there a bolt screwed into it to secure the bracket ???
Oh I see what you mean now. I just bent up a shift lever like B&M send with the shifter but I made it taller so I could bend it out of the way.





The hole I drilled is the only one I need at that end, the others are for different trans. I guess I will try to make the hole that goes over the gear range selector. I think they use hardened metal I dropped theirs and it has a sharp ring to it.
I need better tool than a jig saw and file.



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Last edited by waynieZ : 07-17-2017 at 09:50 PM.
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  #17  
Unread 07-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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I think you're on the right path. Please don't think we ignored your initial inquiry about the header spacer, I think we all just focused on what is hopefully a simpler solution without as many potential downstream issues.
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  #18  
Unread 07-17-2017, 10:20 PM
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No problem It was at the urging of a buddy I tried the spacers to see if it was even possible. I think I was hoping for more nae then yea didn't feel comfortable with a header hanging from extra long bolts. If I get the last part right it could work. As for thee header close to the oil line I might get a couple of small pieces of header wrap and put it between the line and header and hold a strip on with stainless ties.
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  #19  
Unread 07-17-2017, 10:53 PM
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When you say the headers are coated, are they black? What's the coating? Ceramic?
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  #20  
Unread 07-18-2017, 08:48 AM
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No way would I use spacer on the header - that's just a continuous source of leaks and warpage.

You're on the right track with making a new bracket.... and sometimes it's a combination of relocation AND modification -- small movements.... 1/8" and a 1/4" there.


I'd modify the header collector and - if you're building a "DOOM" Ridler winner -- then recoat - if it's a driver I'd paint with heat paint (since it's under the car where it won't show). When I say modify the collector --- I'm talking about a small "C" notch for clearance.
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