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  #111  
Old 10-20-2017, 04:33 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Originally Posted by vstol View Post
Paul I hope to see my Hydratech system soon. Everyone who has commented on this site many thanks. I will let you know how it works out.


These systems work awesome.... you won't be disappointed.
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  #112  
Old 10-20-2017, 08:31 PM
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Post Ok, so now I'm catching some flack about listing the CPP MCPV-1 MC on our website

All of this hammering of CPP in this thread has all of a sudden led to me receiving flack about why we still carry this MC:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/mastercylinders.html



This is a "legacy" item that we carried back when all was still "well" with our CPP dealings. We do actually have some of these on our shelves despite "everything". Why? It is actually because of customer demand for the item (just like the various Wilwood MC's we also have sitting on our shelves). I will note that this particular MC hasn't led to any trouble (surprisingly) with our customers over the years.

Now here is the beautiful one with the built in adjustable proportioning valve that I'd *really* prefer to put in place of the current CPP MC listing:

http://ssbrakes.com/i-10092042-bille...p-a0474-5.html



BUT when we mention $540 bucks for just the MC, the people on the other end of the phone go quiet for a moment trying to absorb paying this amount of money instead of the $199.95 for CPP MC....

All said and done, we can outsource this really really nice vastly superior SSBC MC for our customers on demand, though most opt out and choose the CPP version instead (despite my hammering of CPP). That is why it is still listed...

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www.hydratechbraking.com
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  #113  
Old 10-21-2017, 07:27 AM
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I exchanged my CPP 15/16 for a 1 1/8th.
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  #114  
Old 10-26-2017, 08:22 PM
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Talking Lucky

Hi Kevin - normally our lead times on the base models are in the 3-4 week range. We had a previous order for another customer that the build department accidentally "double built" a few weeks ago. I ran across it today by chance happenstance just sitting there bagged and tagged on a secondary bench and said OMG! This is the model that Kevin needs! Soooooo....

From: HYDRATECH BRAKING SYSTEMS
Tracking Number: 1Z6878F50397741825
Ship To: Kevin XXXXXXXXX
UPS Service: UPS GROUND
Number of Packages: 1
Scheduled Delivery: Monday - 10/30/2017

Thinking of Tom Petty's recent passing, I sang to myself "even the losers get lucky sometimes" (certainly not speaking of you just to be clear)

Remember, call my guy Jim Petty with any questions you may have at any point, as you have our full support!

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There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

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Hydratech Braking Systems ®
www.hydratechbraking.com
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  #115  
Old 10-26-2017, 09:03 PM
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Exclamation Short / Late Model GM Pushrod

Now remember, you ordered the Hydratech model #3507 with the late / short MC pushrod design:



Soooo, be sure to insert the spacer bullet / plug / slug into the deep hole on your master cylinder to convert it for use with the late model GM short pushrod design on your brake unit, otherwise you will have no brakes (!)

Most all aftermarket MC designs are of this "convertible" design - the MC is provided with the GM early spec deep pushrod hole, though the MC is also typically supplied with the "conversion bullet / slug / plug" that converts it for use with the GM late / short MC pushrod interface. Note that we do not supply this item - it is supplied with the aftermarket brake master cylinder. You are using a 1 1/8" CPP MC, right? These are typically the "convertible" spacer bullet type design. I suggest you bench bleed the MC first with the deep hole, which helps to keep your screwdriver from accidentally popping out of place and gouging the MC piston bore. Once the MC is fully bench bled, then you put a dab of grease on the front of the bullet and push it into the deep MC pushrod hole (to help make sure it doesn't accidentally fall out at any point while your handling it during installation onto the face of the brake assist unit). SSBC has an instruction sheet that discusses and shows the installation of the spacer bullet in their MC's for general reference:

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-1-2-3-4-5.pdf

So now we'll all sit back and watch how this system installation goes for you - definitely keep us posted. If all goes according to the plan, you will have a big fat smile on your face here shortly!

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There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

Paul M. Clark <-- the Ukrainian - Slava Ukraini !
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Hydratech Braking Systems ®
www.hydratechbraking.com
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  #116  
Old 10-27-2017, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydratech View Post
Now remember, you ordered the Hydratech model #3507 with the late / short MC pushrod design:



Soooo, be sure to insert the spacer bullet / plug / slug into the deep hole on your master cylinder to convert it for use with the late model GM short pushrod design on your brake unit, otherwise you will have no brakes (!)

Most all aftermarket MC designs are of this "convertible" design - the MC is provided with the GM early spec deep pushrod hole, though the MC is also typically supplied with the "conversion bullet / slug / plug" that converts it for use with the GM late / short MC pushrod interface. Note that we do not supply this item - it is supplied with the aftermarket brake master cylinder. You are using a 1 1/8" CPP MC, right? These are typically the "convertible" spacer bullet type design. I suggest you bench bleed the MC first with the deep hole, which helps to keep your screwdriver from accidentally popping out of place and gouging the MC piston bore. Once the MC is fully bench bled, then you put a dab of grease on the front of the bullet and push it into the deep MC pushrod hole (to help make sure it doesn't accidentally fall out at any point while your handling it during installation onto the face of the brake assist unit). SSBC has an instruction sheet that discusses and shows the installation of the spacer bullet in their MC's for general reference:

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-1-2-3-4-5.pdf

So now we'll all sit back and watch how this system installation goes for you - definitely keep us posted. If all goes according to the plan, you will have a big fat smile on your face here shortly!

Thanks Paul I appreciate it. I am using the CPP 1 1/8th short stroke MC. Just waiting for it to arrive as well. Thanks Kevin
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  #117  
Old 10-30-2017, 04:20 PM
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My Hyrdatech unit arrived today and looks great. Hope to have time this weekend and get it done.
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  #118  
Old 10-30-2017, 07:48 PM
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Smile The magic black box

Hi Kevin - I'm glad to hear that you are pleased with what you have pulled out of the "magic black box" - heck, that's just our base model

Keep us posted - fire off any comments you may have good or bad, as all feedback is important (whether I like it or not), as it helps with the continuous evolution of our systems. If it takes you more than 15 minutes to bolt it to the firewall, then it's time for you to retire your wrenches (!)

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There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

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Hydratech Braking Systems ®
www.hydratechbraking.com

Last edited by Hydratech®; 10-30-2017 at 08:29 PM.
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  #119  
Old 10-31-2017, 04:50 AM
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When should I bleed the brakes, I did not see that in the instructions. I thought you said before I hook up the system's hoses.
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  #120  
Old 10-31-2017, 07:22 PM
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Exclamation Bleed just like any other car

Hi Kevin - bleed the brakes just like you would with any other car - ENGINE OFF. This means that you can bleed the brakes before you even hook up the power steering line set. If you are going to bleed the brakes before hooking up the PS line set, place a towel under the brake unit as it will weep PS fluid out of the ports (as it has been fully dyno tested and is currently full of PS fluid). Note that the one major difference in a hydroboost system is that the brakes will be about a solid inch lower while the system is powered down versus when it is powered up (engine running). I personally prefer to have the PS system lines connected up and the preliminary fill / steer right and left procedure done before brake bleeding - you can even fire the engine up and check for proper power steering operations, but please DO NOT attempt brake bleeding with the system powered up (engine running).

http://hydratechbraking.com/braketech1.html

Here is the statement located in our instructions:

*IMPORTANT! NEVER APPLY THE BRAKES WHILE THE MASTER CYLINDER IS REMOVED, OR YOU MAY DESTROY THE BRAKE ASSIST UNIT BY POSSIBLY OVEREXTENDING THE POWER BRAKE UNIT’S OUTPUT PISTON OUT OF THE PRECISION BORE THAT IT OPERATES IN!

Having the MC installed is the safety stop / travel limiter to prevent this from happening. Imagine a piston popping to far out of its cylinder bore in an engine block (!)

*Perform brake bleeding procedures with the engine off for best results.

You may also dramatically misunderstand what you are feeling with the system bled and the brakes powered up (engine running) at first. I suggest you place the vehicle on a hoist or jack stands, place the vehicle into gear to get the rear tires spinning, then apply the brakes just enough to overcome engine torque of any kind, as this will give you the best idea as to how (little) you actually have to apply the brakes to stop the vehicle. Some people just blaze down on the brake pedal not understanding what they are feeling while the vehicle is sitting still, building 1600 PSI of line pressure thinking that something is weird / wrong (that is until they actually hit the streets!).

Scroll down to the bottom of this old webpage again for reference with the C3 Vette customer's feedback - he completely misunderstood what he was feeling in his brake response at first:

http://hydratechbraking.com/testimonials_old/


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There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

Paul M. Clark <-- the Ukrainian - Slava Ukraini !
Founder / Master Engineer
Hydratech Braking Systems ®
www.hydratechbraking.com
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