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  #21  
Old 07-11-2017, 09:24 PM
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I did the brake light thing at first. Grinding on downshifts coming into exits a few times made me change it to a momentary switch.

I will switch to one of those slick units one of these days.
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2017, 01:23 PM
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Just ordered one.

https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/...6-one-harness/




Quote:
The Bowler all-in-one utilizes a small, built in, epoxy sealed box that will control each of the 3 functions with power and grounding for each function through a switched +12v circuit and a wire connected to the negative battery post or engine block. Control of the reverse lockout solenoid is based on a user defined speed setting (Default is set at locked above 4 MPH and unlocked at 0-3 MPH) This eliminates the need for a separate lock out control box which is currently the only option to activate the reverse lock out correctly. Currently most folks just simply connect their lock out solenoid to a momentary on/off switch such as the brake light switch to activate. This method will get the job done, but can over work the solenoid, and over time shorten its life span. For your electronic speedometer, the harness is equipped with 2 speed sensor outputs; the speed sensor outputs generate a square wave signal that goes from about -5 to roughly +5 volts, varying in frequency as the speed changes. But, you say, my ECM input needs a positive only signal! No problem! The output will automatically shift and give you 0 to +10 volts. The 2 speed sensor outputs are completely independent and can be calibrated separately with any pulse count and ratio you want. So, these two outputs should pretty much be able to drive any common speedometer, cruise control, or ECM. This will give you much greater flexibility in the components you are able to use and requires less time wiring everything up. The reverse lights are powered by a single output wire connected to the positive side of your reverse lights; grounding of those lights should be local to the bulb socket.
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2017, 09:00 PM
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I saw that posted today on facebook, how much was it Donny?
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2017, 09:31 AM
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List is 249 according to their website.
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  #25  
Old 07-13-2017, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
This sounds pretty solid, i might go this route. Let us know how it works.
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2017, 09:54 PM
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https://www.wirebarn.com/T56--TR6060...ule_p_470.html

Alot cheaper
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  #27  
Old 07-14-2017, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
Turns out this is the one I have now and it went bad . But Troy told me Bowler sent it to him as a test sample. They just sent me a new one . I did a quick bypass for Columbus and it works perfect. New one goes on this weekend! One problem down on to the next.
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  #28  
Old 07-14-2017, 04:49 PM
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What problems? Ya cant dent it if ya cant drive it.

Anyways, great dinners with ya..if your out this way, lemme know, you can stay at "Casa de la Pamela" (wifeys house, i get the garage)
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  #29  
Old 07-14-2017, 11:15 PM
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$250 for that kit!!!!!???? That's crazy. If you are running EFI & GM computer, let the ecm do it for you, maybe have $30 in parts, add the circuit to the ECM, run some wires, crimp some terminals, done.

I can spend $220 somewhere else.
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2017, 07:14 AM
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Right. If you have a GM ecm, or an aftermarket ecm that is configurable to perform that function, that is the best way to do it.

But not everyone has that capability.
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