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  #11  
Old 05-07-2020, 12:13 PM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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Started tweeking - a little bit at a time. Seems to want to spring back when I release it. I'll do a little on each side - don't have to go far - maybe 1/4".



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  #12  
Old 05-08-2020, 12:05 PM
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Cool!
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2020, 05:24 PM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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I spend weeks researching rear suspension options: monoleaf, multileaf, composite leaf, watts links, bushing types, etc.

I finally decide I'm gonna rebuild my 10-bolt BOP with an Eaton posi, install Global West Cat5 reverse-eye leafs with 2" drop, a Fays watts link, Koni adjustable shocks and figure out an adjustable swaybar (my current VSE bar is not).

I call GW - their spring supplier is gone, they have nothing left in stock for the 1st gen f-body and have no idea if or when they might get a new supplier.

Grrrrrr!
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:42 AM
Kmelander Kmelander is offline
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Have you considered back-halving the car? A-lot of work but...it’s a 67 Firebird!


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Old 05-24-2020, 09:26 AM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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Waiting on frame rails. Got most of the spot welds cut. Welding in the frame rails will be as much back-halfing as I'll do.
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Old 05-25-2020, 02:34 PM
Kmelander Kmelander is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonRider View Post
Waiting on frame rails. Got most of the spot welds cut. Welding in the frame rails will be as much back-halfing as I'll do.

CR


10-4. Can’t say I blame you. Could have shaved years off my project and I’d still have a back seat. I remember seeing re-pop frame rails for these cars. I think my 74 Nova and your Firebird have the same frame structure.


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  #17  
Old 05-29-2020, 04:48 PM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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Ooooo! Shiny parts delivered today! We'll have something to do this weekend!





Getting Giddy!
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2020, 11:47 AM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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As I plan to replace just the damaged center section of the frame rails, I wanted to test fit the watts link frame so I could plan my cut line. The last thing I want is for the cut/weld line to end up right at the bolt holes.



So I set the frame in place and scribed the brackets into the 1/8" thick rust- proofing.

I want my cut line to be between the two legs of the bracket. The yellow lines are my cut lines. The red line is the edge of the bracket.



I placed jackstands at the front and rear of the frame rails and shimmed until all the measuements were spot on. The porta-power did a great job - you can see the gap create in the relief cut.



Then we cut the rails and bust the spotwelds.



Now some cleaning and grinding before we bravely cut the new frame rails to fit. I tried to make nice square cuts to make the job a bit easier. We'll see.

If you are wondering exactly what category of build this is - I think I'd call it a ProKill build. Somewhere between a ProTouring and RoadKill build.

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Old 05-30-2020, 07:02 PM
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Why not go ahead and replace the whole rail from the cut back to the rear? That's what I would do.

Good luck either way.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2020, 07:56 PM
CanyonRider CanyonRider is offline
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Yeah after I stood back and looked it over, I thought the same thing. So off it came!





Still some clean up to do.

CR
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