Quote:
Originally Posted by 69MSA
I'm *only* running an 18x9 with a 275. However, the car is sitting so low with the half-height bushings, and springs, (which seem to keep settling a little after track days), that I had the wheels re-hooped half an inch wider on the outside, so that the wheels wouldn't scrape the control arms at close to full lock. Other than the rim width, we're running a nearly identical setup, so I'm thinking a little bit of grinding might solve the problem - if you can bring yourself to do it. Of course, having the fronts re-hooped and/or stepping down to a 9.5" would be the right way of doing things. I don't think you'd be sacrificing any significant performance. With DSE's rear bar, the car is fairly neutral in the corners.
Matt
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Its funny that you mention the springs settling, the 450# springs delivered with the frame settled just sitting in my garage to a point where I just got disgusted. Not even test driving the car yet I popped the lower ball joint and installed the 500# hyperco's, they seem to be holding the ride height although I have not done any real spirited driving yet. I truly wish that I went with a 9 or 9.5 rim, these forgeline's have not been with out a lot of issues, my wheels have been back there twice for major leak down issues. I thought if I just reduced the outer hoop to 2.5 making the rim a 9.5 it would help but it wont. The tire will not really move in much according to scott. I need to leave the center where it is and move the whole wheel in a 1/2 inch.
Todds recommendation is good to get rid of the spacer but it doesnt move the tire inward. Im certainly not worried about a performance loss this thing will out perform me any day of the week, the recommendation I took on this wheel size is just wrong especially with the brake package. Live and learn, Im just not sure if I want to cut my losses with forgeline or buy new wheels, probably still cheaper to have all new hoops made. A smaller caliper moves the wheel in a 1/4 inch, might have to get that grinder out.