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  #41  
Old 06-19-2018, 10:00 AM
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DBasher DBasher is offline
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I’m on day 15 work wise and pushing to not work this weekend, you know the trade, anything can happen.

8.8 are easy enough to come by, are you using Explorer and shortening the long side or have you got something else in mind? I may add an 8.8 to the list unless you don’t think it’s needed with a much lower power level.

Keep on keepin on!
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  #42  
Old 06-19-2018, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DBasher View Post
I’m on day 15 work wise and pushing to not work this weekend, you know the trade, anything can happen.

8.8 are easy enough to come by, are you using Explorer and shortening the long side or have you got something else in mind? I may add an 8.8 to the list unless you don’t think it’s needed with a much lower power level.

Keep on keepin on!
Ill do an explorer rear and shorten the long side of it.

The stock dana 30 can handle 300 hp all day long. Put in a G80 from a 740/940 and be done with it. My last ls swapped car had the Dana 30 in it the entire time with zero issues. They hold up really well for the most part. You can also get a locker for them.

Sean
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  #43  
Old 06-19-2018, 07:50 PM
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Wait, whaaaat? You’re saying to NOT spend money on parts I don’t need? I usually hear....”you need an SLA and a torque arm”, “your car won’t work without an aftermarket K member”....or the best, “you know what you need?”

I may need more friends like you, thanks for the info!

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  #44  
Old 06-20-2018, 08:37 AM
gofastwclass gofastwclass is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBasher View Post
Wait, whaaaat? You’re saying to NOT spend money on parts I don’t need? I usually hear....”you need an SLA and a torque arm”, “your car won’t work without an aftermarket K member”....or the best, “you know what you need?”

I may need more friends like you, thanks for the info!

That's funny, when people ask my opinion I tell them all the time they only need to buy x and not y, z or all three for their build. Some people just love to spend money (especially when it isn't theirs) on unnecessary stuff. In my opinion it's all about realistic goals and doing better than you did last time, not trying to beat the other guy.

One neighbour of mine has a car that hasn't moved or even run in almost 10 years because he keeps changing his mind and upgrading parts to beat the other guy. Shame.
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Last edited by gofastwclass; 06-20-2018 at 08:40 AM.
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  #45  
Old 06-21-2018, 12:11 AM
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I usually hear....”you need an SLA and a torque arm”, “your car won’t work without an aftermarket K member”....or the best, “you know what you need?”
What kind of bastage prickfaces have you been talkin with?!
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  #46  
Old 06-21-2018, 07:50 AM
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wow!
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  #47  
Old 06-21-2018, 10:51 AM
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What kind of bastage prickfaces have you been talkin with?!
All of them Get that SLA yet?
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  #48  
Old 06-24-2018, 08:42 PM
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I think I lucked out on the powder coater. They are about 15 minutes from the house and their work has been top notch. Dropped all this stuff off Monday, picked it up done on Friday, I could not find any issues with any of them. 20% gloss black on every bracket, battery box, lower heat exchanger mount. BLK17 textured black for the strut tower bar and intake tube.





I am pretty happy I spent the extra few minutes to do the speed holes and dimple dies on the hood support, it looks a little cleaner and fits the build a little better in my opinion.



Kind of just stared at it friday night after the long week.

Had a friend down Saturday to help with the fuel system, we gutted all of the old fuel lines and dropped the fuel tank to find a terrible mess. The fuel tank was about 75% water and 25% gasoline. The inside of the tank is totally rusted out. This is the pump and level sender.



So that kind of left me at a total loss. We changed direction and tore into the heater box to do the worst task on a car ever, blower motor, wheels, resistor and heater core.





Got it all back together and bolted in the car and was able to get the pedal assembly installed as well, hooked up the clutch pedal and brake pedals as well.

Pulled the factory pressure pump bracket apart and welded up the bottom of it with a new plate and it gave me a great place to mount the Holley 10 micron filter.

Not much progress but hoping to have a little bit of progress this week.
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  #49  
Old 06-28-2018, 11:43 PM
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With the tank being shot and waiting for another one to show up I got to work on what I could keep on.

The fuel pump will mount internally to the tank, it has the pump, hydramat and regulator all in one so it will have a single line running forward.

I have to mount a filter somewhere and the stock under car filter and pump location seemed to make a lot of sense. I fashioned a plate to cover the stock holes and got it all welded up. Didnt have time to get it to powdercoat, but only a handful of people will see it so it got the wrinkle paint on it and then got the Holley 10 micron filter and their brackets to hold it in. I think it turned out pretty well.





I didnt take any pics but I ran the fuel line up front under the car, factory location, head sleeved front to rear as I dont want to have any issues down the road. Russell GM connection at the fuel rail is super clean.

So without the tank that is where the fuel system stopped.

So this then took place.



Then everything got cleaned up, brackets all pulled out, brake tabs all hardware soaking in my secret sauce to remove all the grease and undercoating.

Everything got tapped off and shot all new undercoating in the front innerfenders.



I dropped off the lower control arms with the rear bushing pockets at the powder coater monday morning. They blasted them and had them back to me by 4 pm on Wednesday and again some killer work.

I had to be up in Seattle on Tuesday and Portland on Wednesday. So I ordered some parts and picked up on my way home.

New steering rack, wheel bearings inner and outer, seals, lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends and some misc parts.

So here is the haul for the front suspension,

From Ben

JRZ rsone coilovers
machined upper camber plates
adjustable sway bar endlinks
5x114.3 drilled hubs
ARP long wheel studs
mock up roll correction steering arms (new version hopefully coming soon)

STS Machining

R brake mounts

IPD

Lower control arm bushings

Misc,

New 330 mm brake rotors
s60R brake calipers
Custom built braided stainless brake lines, fittings and plugs from Pacific Rubber in Eugene.

Powdercoated lowers



Had a lot of little issues that hung me up today, wheel bearings just did not want to fit on the JRZ spindles, so a fair bit of finesse went to get this together, chopped off the backing plate so that everything operates like it should with proper dust protection and seals.

New steering rack installed, Lower control arms, cleaned up brackets going back in and stainless lines.



I only got the one side buttoned up today but its fully plumbed and mostly tightened up on the one side. Its gonna be low.





I am really digging the details in this little section.



Picking up the 8.8 tomorrow, then off for the weekend to spend some time at the coast. Hope to get back on it sunday for at least a few hours.

Sean
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  #50  
Old 06-29-2018, 11:46 AM
rustomatic rustomatic is offline
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Great progress so far, Sean--it's great to see creative builds like this happening and getting done. It's this kind of build that gives sites like this a legitimate reason for existence. Question: What kind of regulator goes in your fuel tank with the pump and everything? I get the sense that my C5-style setup may piss me off in the near future . . .
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