I think I might just leave well enough alone...
I have about 500 miles on the new mill now, it is running fantastic and exceeding all expectations. Now that the clutch is broke in I can really start hammering on it, might even make a video or two...
What I have been working on lately is programming the MSD box to get the timing as efficient as I can get it as well as working on the cooling system to keep the temps in a more comfortable range.
The timing escapades can be followed here if interested
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48612 I am going to stop right where I'm at instead of advancing the distributor to 45* locked in as I'm a bit concerned about rotor phasing and cross firing with it that far advanced. I really don't see that the added gain by the additional steps will affect the way I drive the car that much, not enough to take the chance of adding additional troubles.
The cooling system is getting better, I might have it where I need it now and if not, I have one more trick up my sleeve. The car doesn't overheat, but the way it was configured...the electric fans wouldn't kick on low speed until the dash gauge went past 220*, then shut back off at around 212*. At idle, any temp over 210* or so caused a bit of an erractic idle, caused the idle to raise from 850 to 950 RPM and the AFRs got a bit wacky as well. As long as it was idling under 200*, everything just worked smoother. This is most likely carb related and I've resigned myself that I just won't get this setup to run as smooth as a EFI inducted setup. It's pretty good like it is though so I just worked on getting the idle temps down. For reference, at cruise on the highway...it stays steady at 180* without the fans running, due to the 180* thermostat.
I had my two fan switches both in the thermostat housing and had the gauge sensor in the driver side head. I moved the low speed fan switch to the passenger side head and that made the fans kick on low speed just before the gauge gets to 220* and it kicks back off between 200-210*, at idle in the garage the fans only run for a minute or so.
This is much better and the idle stays pretty stable in the garage. I don't think I ever hear the fans kick on high speed, really don't think the engine ever gets hot enough for high speed to be necessary. Now I can override the temp switches with my 3 position switch on the dash for the fans, what I will probably do during race days is use the dash switch to put the fans on high right before and right after runs to help keep the temps at bay when not at highway speeds.
If I decide it's necessary, I'll pick up a lower temp switch (like on at 195-off at 185) and put it in the t-stat housing to make the fans come on even sooner. This is a pretty easy fix and won't require draining the water again or moving any wires.
One thing I can not figure out though, and I'm sure it is carb related is the idle speed after driving the car. No matter how hard or easy I drive the car, once out on the road, any time I come to a stop light, the idle stays between 950-1000 RPM. I can not figure out what is different, or what is happening after the car is driven but it must be either extra fuel in the idle circuits or maybe extra air getting into the carb somehow, but it is constant and has been like this for a while. About the only thing I have not tried to correct this is swapping out the PCV valve. Not sure if that would affect this but I've pretty much resigned myself to live with this as well.
Like I said, most people driving this car would never notice any of this, all they would notice is this car runs VERY close to as if it actually had fuel injection. Starts are seamless, even hot starts, it can be driven right away after start up with no hiccups, it never has even the slightest of hesitations once on road...if you ask for it, it is there every time... Overall it is SWEET to drive. Can't wait to get it out on the track. My first event is an autocross test n tune April 9th.