LS Swap Vs. Procharged SBC

[DannyG]

Question

Originally Posted by clill

Why does the LS3 have to be new ? Have you priced getting a takeout from a low mile car ?

Answer

Originally Posted by XLexusTech

Yet to see one that made sence.. They are usually close to the crate motor price

I've done a ton of research/shopping and, the best deal I've found for a used, low mileage LS3, was about $1k less than a brand new crate with an additional 50 horses. The extra 50 ponies alone is worth another $1k to me, let alone having a brand new, warrantied engine.

[DannyG]

Originally Posted by speedjohnston

Are you looking for the power or just the 'wow' factor? Your small block with blower Pistons, the right compression and right cam Should make a lot more then 480hp. You can also pick up a used LS cheap, put a blower on that and make 550-600 at the wheels with out much trouble and expense. I can spit out many more options.... Lol. Oh the decisions.

Yes. I'm looking for the best combination of both - I want power but I want it to be usable, if that makes sense. I'm not looking to build some monster that makes 750+ horsepower yet is wound so tight that I'm constantly breaking crap - I really want the car to be able to run mid 11's, get thrown around competitively in autocross, and start and run reliably for me on demand.

For this reason, I'm really starting to lean back in the direction of making the big LS investment. It's a big up front cost but, in addition to powerful reliability and wow factor, what a great foundation for future mods. It seems like an inevitable move at some point, so I should probably just do it now.

[WSSix]

If that's the case, then yes, go LS. have you considered getting an older pullout and having it rebuilt? You could go iron 6.0 and easily make more power than the crate LS3 with heads, cam, intake, and exhaust. Or, go LS2 and do the same thing. You can also stroke a 6.0 and bury the LS3. Those options will all be cheaper than the LS3 crate motor. Most of the factory parts in an LS engine can be reused and handle loads of power. So no need to buy a crank or rods for instance. No reason to use an aftermarket intake or aftermarket heads. Factory or factory modified works so very well.

[69x22]

You have to ask yourself what your goals with the car? Are you building it to drag race, autocross, or just drive around and enjoy? I can tell you Pro Chargers and auto crossing don't work well. The power comes in, in the upper rpm, when it does hang on because you are now drifting.

[DannyG]

Originally Posted by 69x22

You have to ask yourself what your goals with the car? Are you building it to drag race, autocross, or just drive around and enjoy? I can tell you Pro Chargers and auto crossing don't work well. The power comes in, in the upper rpm, when it does hang on because you are now drifting.

Very good point... I used to have a pretty built fox body stang with a Paxton on it, and it was out of control on the autocross course. I can't believe I hadn't thought about that.

[Sparks67]

If your goal is a supercharged engine, then you might look at the LSA. Ebay has a few LSA pullouts. Cost is a little more than the LS3 525 hp, but you have more upgrade options with the LSA engine than an LS3. For example the LSA has built in oil squirters for the pistons. If you plan in the future to upgrade the LS3 for a supercharger, then you have to buy a bare block then have it machined for the squirters.

If your goal is LS3 crate engine, and you plan to keep it NA. Then you should be fine.

Just make sure your car is structurally sound, because all the first gens have hidden issues. Factory subframe mounts are typically rusted out. Easy fix, but you still have to drop the subframe to fix it.

Jeff


PS.

I have owned 2 383's sbc but I upgraded to LS3 418 with LS9 supercharger. 841 hp and 816 ft/lbs torque at only 10.9 lbs boost, but if I wanted more power then I could go to 15 Lbs boost. I can run pump gas and I have more horsepower and torque than my full roller 383.

[71RS/SS396]

Originally Posted by DannyG

Yes. I'm looking for the best combination of both - I want power but I want it to be usable, if that makes sense. I'm not looking to build some monster that makes 750+ horsepower yet is wound so tight that I'm constantly breaking crap - I really want the car to be able to run mid 11's, get thrown around competitively in autocross, and start and run reliably for me on demand.

For this reason, I'm really starting to lean back in the direction of making the big LS investment. It's a big up front cost but, in addition to powerful reliability and wow factor, what a great foundation for future mods. It seems like an inevitable move at some point, so I should probably just do it now.

You're going to need more than 480 fwhp to get in to the mid 11's. It's hard to get these cars to 60 ft with the low profile tires and suspension set-up to turn, you need to make up the et with power. My old engine made 515 rwhp and the best et was 11.6. My wifes LS2 makes 440 rwhp and the best et to date is 12.5.

[badazz81z28]

Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396

You're going to need more than 480 fwhp to get in to the mid 11's. It's hard to get these cars to 60 ft with the low profile tires and suspension set-up to turn, you need to make up the et with power. My old engine made 515 rwhp and the best et was 11.6. My wifes LS2 makes 440 rwhp and the best et to date is 12.5.

I agree, build a dragster or an autocross car as you will disapointed with one of them if you try to do both. I took my car to the track on my low profile street tires and spun half way down the track. I put a pair of 275/15s drag radials and dropped nearly 3 seconds. 460 RWHP and I can run mid 11s with full interior (Keep in mind DA plays a role too).

[DannyG]

Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396

You're going to need more than 480 fwhp to get in to the mid 11's. It's hard to get these cars to 60 ft with the low profile tires and suspension set-up to turn, you need to make up the et with power. My old engine made 515 rwhp and the best et was 11.6. My wifes LS2 makes 440 rwhp and the best et to date is 12.5.

I should've specified - The actual quarter mile time isn't that important to me. Just having the power to weight ratio to be capable of those kinds of times. I'll have 17" DRs which will slightly help the cause too.

[badazz81z28]

Originally Posted by DannyG

I should've specified - The actual quarter mile time isn't that important to me. Just having the power to weight ratio to be capable of those kinds of times. I'll have 17" DRs which will slightly help the cause too.

Danny, a modded LS3 will be totally capable of 11s with good tires and suspension. I vote LS over any old school BBC/SBC only because the technology and performance for dollar is just so superior. The weight advantage of the all aluminum engine helps too.