Possible Budget LSX Accessory System (GM System)

[Bowtieracing]

Originally Posted by Ummgawa

You could notch the crossmember where the A/C pump would hit. A semi- circular cut out about two inches in the subframe cross member (we are talking stock sub frames here) and reweld or fill in the cut out space and you are in business. Seems to me to be a whole lot less expensive than a new pulley set up.

Thank you Jim for the idea!! That way the ac and all would be out of sight!

I found all brackets from one guy at ebay.Brand new and about 90 bucks all 5 pieces.

[XcYZ]

I came across this pic, shows the Vette layout nicely:

[Diognes56]

Thanks for the part numbers, those will come in handy later .

David

[PRRC]

Do you know what the sellers name was from e-bay? I've been looking but so far nothing. All I'm running is P/S and ALT. I dont want a lot of billet stuff under the hood.I like what Steve did on Bad Penny.
Tim

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing

Thank you Jim for the idea!! That way the ac and all would be out of sight!

I found all brackets from one guy at ebay.Brand new and about 90 bucks all 5 pieces.

[Ummgawa]

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing

Thank you Jim for the idea!! That way the ac and all would be out of sight!

I found all brackets from one guy at ebay.Brand new and about 90 bucks all 5 pieces.

Do you one better... here is a picture that will show you where to notch the frame. BRP Hot Rods did my stock sub frame DSE mods. If you look closely, it is really close to what DSE did. DSE's subframe has a relief where the A/C pump won't hit and the R&P goes thru the cross member. Phil did mine with the piece cut out for the R&P to go thru the frame, DSE just made it a tunnel. I went on ahead and had a piece welded over the open spot for added strength and put a Speedway Sway bar front mounted rather than the rear mount that BRP did.

Picture here for the notching:

http://brphotrods.com/parts.html

and DSE's:

http://detroitspeed.com/productpages...frame_pic2.htm

Now DSE's is really a nice piece, but I figure if Mark is running a modified Stock Sub Frame, I can to.

[Datsbad]

Originally Posted by Ummgawa

You could notch the crossmember where the A/C pump would hit. A semi- circular cut out about two inches in the subframe cross member (we are talking stock sub frames here) and reweld or fill in the cut out space and you are in business. Seems to me to be a whole lot less expensive than a new pulley set up.

Have you tried this theroy yet ????

I have and it does not work !!! Way to much to cut out , it will interfear in the motor mount area.
This is why on the Jackson car they made brackets to push the ac out farther and use a ATI balancer with a separate pulley bolted to the front balancer to run the belt .

I have pics of this to confirm. Scott , can you post it ?

[camcojb]

Jody

[Datsbad]

Originally Posted by Ummgawa

Do you one better... here is a picture that will show you where to notch the frame. BRP Hot Rods did my stock sub frame DSE mods. If you look closely, it is really close to what DSE did. DSE's subframe has a relief where the A/C pump won't hit and the R&P goes thru the cross member. Phil did mine with the piece cut out for the R&P to go thru the frame, DSE just made it a tunnel. I went on ahead and had a piece welded over the open spot for added strength and put a Speedway Sway bar front mounted rather than the rear mount that BRP did.

Picture here for the notching:

http://brphotrods.com/parts.html

and DSE's:

http://detroitspeed.com/productpages...frame_pic2.htm

Now DSE's is really a nice piece, but I figure if Mark is running a modified Stock Sub Frame, I can to.

Assuming everyone is using the ATS, or S&P style mounts the engine sits MUCH farther back than your set up .Also I am assuming we are talking about using a stock subframe here also .
I beleive year one went with this set up in the begining and then later switched to the S&P style for much better front engine room and weight distribution.

In the DSE pic , That is obviously the NEW subframe and would have a much different center section to alow more accomodation for various AC pumps, SD7 or the Big Sanden one.

In the BRP pic that has a very small notch for the AC , but then again with the engine sitting that much farther forward it wouldnt have any issues.

I can assure you that a ATS , S&P style mount on a LS engine with a factory or SD7 ac pump will not work . The section to be cut out goes way back into the motor mount stands , ( bolts closet to the front of the car )
We felt there was to much to be cut out and lose some rigidity in the factory frame to complete this safely.

[Datsbad]

Jody , Thanks for posting these pics.

Looking at these pics make me wonder the primary size on the headers.
It appears that these are SW headers and I know they dont make 1-7/8 .
I know there is a big concern with running 1-3/4 headers on these LS engines. I guess it did not hurt that engine. It makes upwards of 600 hp and Warren Johnson did spec out and assemble that engine.

Anyone think they are larger than 1-3/4 ? Sorry to hijack this thread with header talk !!!

[Steve1968LS2]

This is true. I used the BRP mounts on my '69 and they push the engine way forward. I wasn't using AC so we made plates to push the engine back since there was hardly room for an air intake up front.

I'm still a big fan of GM pully systems and making them work though. Well engineered and dirt cheap.