Quote:
Originally Posted by Ummgawa
Do you one better... here is a picture that will show you where to notch the frame. BRP Hot Rods did my stock sub frame DSE mods. If you look closely, it is really close to what DSE did. DSE's subframe has a relief where the A/C pump won't hit and the R&P goes thru the cross member. Phil did mine with the piece cut out for the R&P to go thru the frame, DSE just made it a tunnel. I went on ahead and had a piece welded over the open spot for added strength and put a Speedway Sway bar front mounted rather than the rear mount that BRP did.
Picture here for the notching:
http://brphotrods.com/parts.html
and DSE's:
http://detroitspeed.com/productpages...frame_pic2.htm
Now DSE's is really a nice piece, but I figure if Mark is running a modified Stock Sub Frame, I can to.
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Assuming everyone is using the ATS, or S&P style mounts the engine sits MUCH farther back than your set up .Also I am assuming we are talking about using a stock subframe here also .
I beleive year one went with this set up in the begining and then later switched to the S&P style for much better front engine room and weight distribution.
In the DSE pic , That is obviously the NEW subframe and would have a much different center section to alow more accomodation for various AC pumps, SD7 or the Big Sanden one.
In the BRP pic that has a very small notch for the AC , but then again with the engine sitting that much farther forward it wouldnt have any issues.
I can assure you that a ATS , S&P style mount on a LS engine with a factory or SD7 ac pump will not work . The section to be cut out goes way back into the motor mount stands , ( bolts closet to the front of the car )
We felt there was to much to be cut out and lose some rigidity in the factory frame to complete this safely.