Possible Budget LSX Accessory System (GM System)

[novanutcase]

That's what I used on mine!



All the other kits stuck out too much and hit the R & P!

John

[68LS1]

This is why on the Jackson car they made brackets to push the ac out farther and use a ATI balancer with a separate pulley bolted to the front balancer to run the belt .

I have pics of this to confirm. Scott , can you post it ?[/QUOTE]

Pardon my ignorance what is the "Jackson" car? Is this the same way that Mark Stielow did it on Camaro X?
Does anyone know if this balancer and pulley is readily available?

This is one of the things I need to still sort and I like this idea.

cheers

[Datsbad]

Originally Posted by 68LS1

This is why on the Jackson car they made brackets to push the ac out farther and use a ATI balancer with a separate pulley bolted to the front balancer to run the belt .

I have pics of this to confirm. Scott , can you post it ?

Pardon my ignorance what is the "Jackson" car? Is this the same way that Mark Stielow did it on Camaro X?
Does anyone know if this balancer and pulley is readily available?

This is one of the things I need to still sort and I like this idea.

cheers[/QUOTE]


When I refer to the Jackson car I meant the Reggie Jackson 69 That GM built for him and was on display at SEMA with the new 454 cid LSX block .

And There is a white car in Hot Rod now that shows this .

[69MyWay]

I did the F-body brackets on my 69 WITH a/c using the BRP motor mounts and a cool little bracket he makes to hang the Sanden compressor on the stock a/c bracket attachment.

I notched the frame. It has wicked cold a/c, and 100% reliable OEM serp system that can be serviced at any GM dealer (or junk yard)

I am doing a Vette system on my 85 Vette LSx project.

The main a/c bracket at cost + 15% is less than $60. Then you add the accessories, pulleys, and tensioners.

[Payton King]

using S & P mounts no way can you use a stock a/c compressor in the stock location. I did, however, move the frame horns up in the frames and used the s& p mounts. I did this to keep the LS1 oil pan from hanging down past the cross member. By rasing the motor in the car about 3/4 of an inch, it left me enough room to use the S & P lower a/c bracket and a 508 compressor. The S & P bracket mover the a/c to run off of the main belt. The other benefit or raising the motor besides the oil pan is you can also use the f body alternator in the stock location as well.

I then notched the frame for the a/c, not very much, and it fit fine. I will have to look for photos.

Of course I did all of this work to pull the frame and install a 21st century unit.

I raised the tunnel in the car also.

[Garage Dog 65]

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing

I found all brackets from one guy at ebay.Brand new and about 90 bucks all 5 pieces.

Joni passed this along to me this morning. http://stores.ebay.com/Nook-and-Tranny-LLC

Jim

[PRRC]

Thanks looks like he has what I need.
Tim

[Ummgawa]

Originally Posted by Datsbad

Assuming everyone is using the ATS, or S&P style mounts the engine sits MUCH farther back than your set up .Also I am assuming we are talking about using a stock subframe here also .
I beleive year one went with this set up in the begining and then later switched to the S&P style for much better front engine room and weight distribution.

In the DSE pic , That is obviously the NEW subframe and would have a much different center section to alow more accomodation for various AC pumps, SD7 or the Big Sanden one.

In the BRP pic that has a very small notch for the AC , but then again with the engine sitting that much farther forward it wouldnt have any issues.

I can assure you that a ATS , S&P style mount on a LS engine with a factory or SD7 ac pump will not work . The section to be cut out goes way back into the motor mount stands , ( bolts closet to the front of the car )
We felt there was to much to be cut out and lose some rigidity in the factory frame to complete this safely.

Jason

Thanks for the info. I will say that not every one is building a Camaro X, a Mule or a Fuel. Some folks are on a budget and I offered the solution as an alternative to $3000.00 pulley set up or maybe a 1500.00 fix it. Three inches forward in the engine compartment may not make that much difference to 7 out 10 enthusiasts. Phil Brewer, whom I call a good friend, is very strait forward in solutions and how to arrive at them. Not to long ago, Wayne was the only show in town on sub frames. Now they are every where. I still maintain for most the simplest solution is the best and contained in that solution is compromise. It is just the way it is. Notching the frame means the engine sits forward three to four inches is OK with some dudes. A full on Wine and Cheeze boy will make claims concerning the center of gravity and how it effects the handleing at WOT in a corner-that's cool. 99 out of 100 Pro-touring cars will never see the track, and thats cool too!

My point is not every problem in our favorite Genre has a 2500 solution attached to it. You speak of S & P mounts and A/C brackets, are they available and can you post pix of them? That would be a big help. Inclusion rather than exclusion-thats is the thing that attracts me to Lateral-G. Not some bunch of Holier than thou A holes that scream their own names when they have an Orgasm. I still think, for some, simplest is best.

[Payton King]

moved up the frame horns. I will send them to Scott to post. The S & P bracket for the a/c was maybe $200. S & P engine mounts are $90

Although not on a stock frame, it is the same set-up I used when I had the stock frame under the car.

If you don;t like the billet, annodize it black or scuff it with a scotch brite pad.

[Ummgawa]

Payton

Thanks man!! That is scweet looking and functional. Do you have a web address on the S & P brackets? Hey if you swing through Atlanta again, Buzz me.

Jim