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Old 12-20-2005, 05:19 PM
Boulder69 Boulder69 is offline
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Question Please help - Harmonic Balancer Removal

This may sound like a dumb question, but how do I remove the harmonic balancer on my 95 LT1? When I try to loosen any of the three bolts that hold the balancer/pulley to the hub, it just turns the crank. Is there something I am missing here like a special tool to hold the hub while I remove the balancer/pulley? Then how do I loosen the center hub bolt without turning the crank? Thanks to all in advance. -eric
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:35 PM
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I've always had good luck using a ton of torque, (by hand) and applying it quickly. If that doesn't work for you, this tool will hold the crank in place.
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Old 12-20-2005, 05:50 PM
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They have tools that hold the flywheel to loosen the balancer bolt. Usually an Autozone will loan/rent the tool needed.


Also remember that on an LT1 the hole in the middle for the crank bolt is much smaller than a standard small block balancer, so a regular balancer puller doesn't work as it bottoms out on the balancer instead of the crank itself. I have used a 7/16 fine-thread bolt threaded into the end of the crank with a gap between it and the balancer, and then setup the puller to push off the head of the bolt.

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Old 12-20-2005, 08:23 PM
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If I remember right, the last time I did it I removed the 3 bolts holding it on and just tapped it from the back side leaving the hub on. Just take a block of wood and tap it from behind. It came off fairly easily. I was replacing my optispark/water pump. Be sure to reference/mark where the balancer comes off (mark 12 o'clock position) and replace it in the same position. I tried using a 3 jaw puller but I couldn't get it off with it. I bet GM has a correct "tool" but I got that info off of a post from www.cz28.com in the LT1 tech section. Here is the correct way to pull it: http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg . I installed it by aligning it back up and using a block of wood and a mallet. Not technically correct but I didn't get to crazy with the mallet either. No problems with mine so far.
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Old 12-20-2005, 09:45 PM
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You are correct Chris, I was assuming he wanted the hub off.


Jody
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Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 12-20-2005, 10:34 PM
Boulder69 Boulder69 is offline
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I do need the hub off as well 'cause I am doing a new water pump and opti. I also see that the wp drive shaft seal is leaking as well, so I gotta yank the timing cover off and get those three seals replaced as well. Any other tips would be appreciated.

What kind of engineer designs an expensive electronic distributor that mounts directly below countless sources of potential fluid leaks? Unemployed. Or maybe VP of marketing for all of the $$ made on optisparks......
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Old 12-21-2005, 08:07 PM
130fe 130fe is offline
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Good luck and be sure to use a GM optispark. Call Jason Cromer-parts guy at (Sam Taylor Cadillac) in Ft Walton Beach FL. The # is 800-498-2301. Ask for parts and then for him. Will save you $ with just ordering through him with shipping. I am local to him now, but when I wasn't he always gave good prices (better than local dealers.) He is well known in the LT1 "world". Let me know if you have anymore questions and I will try to help.
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