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  #31  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:12 PM
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Thumbs up Frame Cut for Tubs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal View Post
Welcome Michael! We welded to the inboard side. I guess you could bend 1/4" steel plate, but I didn't see the need...
Quote:
Originally Posted by KPC67 View Post
Michael, I couldn't get any decent pictures tonight, my camera died.
I actually cut all of the frame out just leaving the sheetmetal on the inboard side of it, and bent up a 1/4" steel plate for the close out. I still think it will be plenty strong, and I plan on boxing it in once i get the car on a rotisserie.

Ron ... looks like Kevin bent the 1/4" plate version. WOW, I guess there isn't much frame left. Thanks for the Pictures Kevin.
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  #32  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:16 PM
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Default 9 Inch

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Originally Posted by KPC67 View Post
the drawback for me at least, I can't use my 12 bolt. The upper link mounts can't be welded on a 12 bolt, so .... guess I'll sell this one and save for a nine inch housing.

Michael
It depends on what you want to do. I just bought a nine inch from DSE and the housings start around $900; or you can source one from a junk yard, the mid seventies trucks are a good place to start.[/QUOTE]

Kevin ... AME has a pretty good price on their 9 inch with the brackets welded in place, of course they want you to buy the WHOLE kit at once 3700 bucks - saves money and you only have to pay for shipping once.
So.... thinking.
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  #33  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:25 PM
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Thumbs up Update 1/6

Some Garage Time Didn't feel too motivated to think tonight, so I did the mundane job of cleaning up the front floor pans, and did that ever make a mess. Got all the glue off and the surface rust in the toe board, seems there was water sitting under the carpet/ underlayment, go figure!
Had to be done.


Using a circular disc to clean the floor, not bad!

Passenger toeboard. Little bit of surface rust, that **** will buff out!

Michael
Something everyday is better than nothing.
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  #34  
Old 01-07-2012, 05:36 PM
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Cool Update 1/7

UPDATE 1/7 Did some clean work on the Camaro today. Used POR Chassis Black over the POR15 silver, first I had to break the skin of the silver with a gray scotch brite pad and then used my work garage and heat to give the dash and the door frame a couple thin coats. I think the sheen will fad a little.
Now the back to the dirty work, finish the floor!

Good for another 45 years.

Dash POR Chassis Black

Ditto

Michael
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  #35  
Old 01-08-2012, 02:02 PM
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Thumbs up 1/8/12 Floor pans

Got Dirty again! Got out in the garage with the heat on and finished cleaning the rear floor pans. Some surface rust to deal with , but nothing the POR15 can't handle, it's just too cold to use right now!
Why is it every time I pull a body plug there is NO undercoating under the plug? I guess that was an option in 67, not with me - my cars future will have everything coated! Here is pictures of the mess I made


Rear floor pans done


Surface rust - POR15 when it warms up!
Michael
Got out there today!
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  #36  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:05 PM
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Thumbs up 1/9 Photos

Left my door frame and dash at work over the weekend to dry and what a sight when I went in this am, the black is just what I was going for - just a hint of sheen! I think it looks better than the shiny POR15. If any one is wondering - POR Chassis Coat!




Michael
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  #37  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:15 PM
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Default Next on list!

1/10 Next project Nothing too exciting, just thought while I was cleaning up the dash frame I should do the glove box. Thought I had a picture of the mouse house that caused this to rust, could not find one. Should have this cleaned and POR'd soon. Hopefully this is reusable.

Michael

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  #38  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:30 PM
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Thumbs up Update 1/14

Update 1/14 Not too exciting, but I did get out to the garage with the nice weather we have and did some cleaning on the driver's door and both door jambs, will be ready for epoxy primer when the weather gets nice And I thought I'd show the rust damage in the weatherstrip channel around the trunk I have to make this with my stretcher/ shrinker, that should be fun! I have the weatherstrip channel new, that will help. Yeah, both sides are the same. DID get the glove compartment door POR'd, waiting for the second coat and then topcoat like the door.


glove compartment door POR'd

Driver's door ready for epoxy

Rusted channel

Got the door jambs almost cleaned up!
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  #39  
Old 01-15-2012, 02:39 PM
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Default

I can't even imagine how many hours you have using a circular disc to clean up everything. Why not just have it media blasted and epoxy coated? It will save you a TON of hours.

Nice work by the way
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  #40  
Old 01-15-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John510 View Post
I can't even imagine how many hours you have using a circular disc to clean up everything. Why not just have it media blasted and epoxy coated? It will save you a TON of hours.

Nice work by the way
John ... thanks for noticing. I asked around here for soda blasting and it's roughly 900 - 1000 USD. I went to a body shop here and they were using this company that I was interested in soda blasting my car and they had some miscommunication with the company and after they painted this guy's Mustang the paint started to lift! So they got a hold of the company and they said you have to WASH IT WITH WATER/ soap before you paint! Well the body shop had to start all over with the Mustang (at least it was a FORD! Kidding!)
Anyhow, I would rather save that kinda money on suspension stuff, wheels and tires, etc... (money is tight, paying off doctor bills). Yes I have a lot of hours cleaning up everything but I know it's done right and I didn't introduce any chemicals and I didn't put water in any seams that would rust out later.
Besides .... it's winter and I can't do any real body work cuz of the temp. so might as well keep busy - it's only a dirty job once
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Last edited by Sonar Chief; 01-15-2012 at 06:33 PM.
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