Anybody slowing down from 150+ mph very quickly??

[nitrorocket]

Nice bird?

I am using DOT 5.0037123335 fluid. It is a special mixture, Valvoline. Top secret.

Whatever speed I will be slowing down from, I am sure it will be dead fast. And doing that lap after lap, I just want a real good brake. All my buddies run at road america on there bikes quite often. Unfortunatly, none of them have track cars, just bikes. They say they are hitting 165 mph or so on the straight, I am not sure what to do about that, I guess I will just have to part throttle down the straight? I can't wait to go, but I want the car setup before I do. What do the fast guys do? let off on the straights. If they are doing 165, I would be doing about 180+, that seems a little fast??? It sure will be fun setting the car up though! I am all excited, can you tell!

[nitrorocket]

That is a an add on I will be doing, an oil cooler. Luckily, my turbo setup in not getting hot under 10 psi, which I am sure I will be under most of the time. 10 psi is still about 700 hp.
My major concern is a good brake setup I can put together so I wont spend as much time in the grass.

[fatlife]

Originally Posted by nitrorocket

Nice bird?

I am using DOT 5.0037123335 fluid. It is a special mixture, Valvoline. Top secret.

Whatever speed I will be slowing down from, I am sure it will be dead fast. And doing that lap after lap, I just want a real good brake. All my buddies run at road america on there bikes quite often. Unfortunatly, none of them have track cars, just bikes. They say they are hitting 165 mph or so on the straight, I am not sure what to do about that, I guess I will just have to part throttle down the straight? I can't wait to go, but I want the car setup before I do. What do the fast guys do? let off on the straights. If they are doing 165, I would be doing about 180+, that seems a little fast??? It sure will be fun setting the car up though! I am all excited, can you tell!

Hey no problem with wanting your car right first! And no offense but you have the mentality of someone who hasn't been to the track, it is a lot different than you think, you just have to go and experience it for yourself. Its not necessarily so special or anything but it is easy to get concepts and misconceptions about it, and come up with goals and a mindset that are not realistic. Don't worry about the straight aways that is the easiest part of the entire track and I guarantee you will be letting off, maybe not a lot, but you won't be going into the corner as deep as you possibly could. For me the hardest part of driving the track is braking late, and holding off to turn in. Your instict when you see that turn coming up is to slow down and turn in when it feels comfortable, but the way to be fast is to brake later and turn in later. But my whole point was that to talk about doing 150 and the whole point of needing good brakes was because you wanted to go really fast down the straight aways is kinda silly. The only expectation you should have is that you are going to be humbled, and will be slow at first, and that you will have a lot to learn.

It will be a lot more fun if you can let go of wanting to be fast, and just enjoy the whole experience and mostly learn and have fun thats what your there for its not a race.

and I am interested to heare what kind of brake fluid you have, you might think I'm being anal but it makes a difference. I applaud you for wanting to take your car to the extreme and actually go out there and use it like it was intended for! So what are you considering doing with the front brakes?
EDIT: I just checked out a map of Road America and damn those are some long straight aways! So maybe you will be hitting those speeds but still I wasn't trying to destroy your goals and such, just trying to show you what you should actually be concerned about

[fatlife]

BTW I have a great suggestion for you, tape up your speedo so you can't see it. This is something that most intructors will tell you to do. Once you get the whole "fast" thing out of your head you will be light years ahead of yourself. That way you are only driving at your comfort level, not at some predetermined number that you decided while listening to your friends tell you stories.

And If I were you, I would be doing a C5 front setup, you can piece it together and do it very cheaply. Or better yet I belive Dennis68 put together a pretty killer wilwood setup for fairly cheap, with a revised spindle and geometry. I'll look for his website, I don't believe he posts much anymore

EDIT: heres his site, I think he might have the right solution for you;
http://www.onrails.us/
check out his wilwood setup , with the improved spindle, hub, and steering arm

[fatlife]

Originally Posted by Blown353

Good info here.
One thing you need to remember is take a cool down lap so ambient heat doesn't bake the rubber dust seals on the calipers when you park it in the pits.

.

The real good calipers don't even have dust seals for this exact reason, although they will make crappy street brakes. Another thing that you might think about if you are serious about brakes is that the good calipers use titanium or stainless pistons, the stock GM calipers I believe use cast aluminum or something which puts more heat into your fluid.

[Blown353]

Originally Posted by fatlife

The real good calipers don't even have dust seals for this exact reason, although they will make crappy street brakes. Another thing that you might think about if you are serious about brakes is that the good calipers use titanium or stainless pistons, the stock GM calipers I believe use cast aluminum or something which puts more heat into your fluid.

True about the dust seals, which is why I don't like running "racing" brake calipers for street duty-- sucks having to rebuild your calipers every few thousand street miles! Depends on your driving conditions of course.

I know Wilwood and I'm sure others offer insulating pistons (look at the figures of the Thermlock pistons on the Wilwood site) that are lower in conduction because of material selection but also offer radiant heat barriers and a reduced contact areas to keep the pistons and fluid cooler. Stainless and titanium pistons are definately better than aluminum when it comes to thermal conductivity. Wilwoods pistons also greatly minimize the actual pad to piston contact area through some clever machining and built-in airgaps for additional insulation.

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-STR/index.asp

Originally Posted by nitrorocket

That is a an add on I will be doing, an oil cooler. Luckily, my turbo setup in not getting hot under 10 psi, which I am sure I will be under most of the time. 10 psi is still about 700 hp.
My major concern is a good brake setup I can put together so I wont spend as much time in the grass.

Lower boost and correspondingly higher timing will keep the EGT's down which should help minimize thermal problems under the hood with all the turbo plumbing... but I would still expect problems the first time you hit the track. Murphy is a crafty fellow.

Definately run high octane gas at the track. Your street tune which may not detonate during occasional WOT blasts on 93 octane may detonate like mad once you start using sustained heavy throttle which will heatsoak the engine and combustion chambers. You may even have to step down to colder plugs.

[clill]

I haven't read all you have done but I am assuming you have not done a track day. A trick to going fast around a track is braking late but you don't have to. Go sign up for a track day and go in the beginner class. It is easy to slow down for the corner early enough so you hardly need the brakes. You won't be the fastest but you will be out there learning. Get a instructor to ride along and show you apexes etc. After a couple sessions you will have a better feeling if you even like track events. You might also figure out you need a different oil pan to keep from starving for oil in extended turns. Depending on how your boost comes on you might even be dialing it back so it doesn't suprise you in a turn. We had the boost on the Mule dialed back. You might figure out all kinds of stuff you want to change on the car.

[71Nova]

From what I know about NitroRocket, I would be surprised if he hasn't been to 150 already. He has one of my favorite engines on this site putting out over 900 horse! and he seems Crazy enough to do it frequently. I aplaud you for finally wanting to make your car safer.

[nitrorocket]

I have a pretty good idea what it takes to make it around the track except the adrenaline rush part! Sound a little small scale, but I am a very good and experienced RC car racer. Same principles, but real life. I just want to have some real fun. I have a buddy who was a track instructor at RA and we have torn it up a little, great fun!

Anyway. I just run a DOT 4 SYNTHETIC, I think, I havent looked at the bottle since winter. It is Valvoline brand though.

I might consider the C5 swap, But I really like the pure strength of the new ZO6 brakes, I could never see brake fade with those. I have to start doing alot of research on calipers and go from there.

I was really concerned about the high speeds because I have such a high powered heavy car that really taxes the brakes. Road America has some rediculously long straights and that brings some serious MPH!

I have always wanted to get into road racing. I am a very aggressive driver on the street and really want to take it to the track. Country backroads are real fun at 100+ but dangerous. Any sport bike rider will know what I am talking about. I regretfully had to sell the bike, and I really miss the "rides", but the car will do just the same......with a radio too! Yes, I drive the cars like they are meant to be driven. No trailer Queens for me!

What class do you race???, Bike I assume?

[Elusive R]

Before you dump a bunch of money on the new ZO6 stuff, you might want to research it on the Corvette boards. There are more than a few Vette owners having a terrible time with those brakes at track events. Pads are very epensive, too, and there is just the OEM street compound available. They're ok for the street and very light track (or end of the dragstrip type stuff), but that's on a car much lighter than yours. If might be worth your while to call up some brake manufacturers and see what they can do for you. Regular C5 brakes might be a better option because the pad choice is huge.

From what I've read at Corner-Carvers (whose members include many instructors), you'll need to make sure you're very open to learning at the track. I don't think any instructor will be comfortable with you going anywhere near that fast your first time out - and if you do so against their wishes, you'll be done.

Ryan