questions about aeromotive a-1000 pump lines

[yamadog]

Guys I appreciate the help here. A little history- When Summit racing first opened in Nevada, I got a job there as I heard they gave employees parts at cost. That was like 11 years ago. I only worked there for a couple of years but in that time I bought alot of parts for a bunch of cars I had. Most of wich I never got aroung to installing. The a-1000 pump came out just before I quit working for summit. My reasoning at the time was that if I put in a too big pump, no mater what direction I went with the car I would never have to upgrade the fuel system again. Well 10 years later, two kids, a wife......I just want to get my Camaro back on the road. It hasn't moved off of the jack stands in about 8 years. Now I am trying to put this together with virtually no money, because I sure don't have extra right now. Just install all the parts I bought so long ago. I actually have a cheap alum. cell (with -10 pickup), but now I don't want to kill the trunk space. Then I saw the RobMc 1/2 pickup and thought it would be perfect. Maybe I should realy consider using the cell.....Thanks again and please keep the conversation and ideas comming. Jason

[GregWeld]

Jason --

All good reasoning. Kids and a wife can kill a perfectly good car build!!

Aeromotive makes a fuel pump controller - runs off the tach if I remember correctly - and varies the pump speed to match the motor - so you're not pumping fuel at idle - the same as when you're WOT.

I know you said "no money" but it costs money to be broken down on the hiway somewhere too... so maybe this is something you might want to consider looking into.

The problem that I see with using the pickup tube style tank - with the external mounted pump --- YOU CAN'T GO BELOW HALF A TANK.... that could be pretty inconvenient - and or - going up a long grade depending on the location of the pickup (which I would hope is at the rear of the tank).

You might see what it would run to drop the tank out and have a "sump" installed.. (I'm assuming you don't/can't do this yourself). That would get you the flooded head - the pump wants. And as an added benefit - get you to be able to dip down under that half tank of fuel. I'm assuming also that you're using a RETURN style regulator? If so - this would give you the chance to put in a return line bung - or use the existing pickup tube as the return line connection.


BTW -- My comments are not to "hurt" or make fun of what you are doing - rather = We're discussing your situation and trying to help you so you don't have problems. Talking out loud so to speak...

[Vegas69]

I agree Greg, excess fuel delivery makes heat. Sumping it would work and I do believe those pumps can be submerged a well. You could cut open the tank and use some bungs or bulkheads. The sump is probably the easiest solution however. I imagine you could sell that pump for good coin and use one better suited for your application. A good mechanical pump would work perfect with this tank and sender. Doing something twice ALWAYS costs at least twice as much.

[yamadog]

OK, after putting more thought into it (with prodding from you guys more in the know than me) I think I'm gunna forgo the trunk space and use my aluminum cell. It just solves all the plumbing issues. Thanks for the help..... And Greg- Talk out loud all you want.....not going to hurt my feelings any. Thanks, Jason

[Vegas69]

That solves your sump problem, but not overheating your pump and fuel. You never did tell us how much power you are feeding?

[yamadog]

Well.....motor is a sbc, maybe 450hp if I'm lucky. please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the fuel cool the pump? So regardless of power output shouldn't the correct size lines (both feed and return) keep the pump cool? Or did we just open up another can of worms?.....Jason

[Vegas69]

When you run a bypass regulator, every ounce of fuel you return to the sump creates friction and thus heat. I hate to see you do all this work and have problems. You said you're tight on funds and a quality mechanical pump and your current setup will do the job all day long. Plumbing in a A1000 is going to cost you some bucks in fittings, hose, and regulators. You don't need anthing larger than a 3/8 line to feed that motor. Something as simple as this will work.... http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/Holley-...45057/10002/-1 Put a filter on the carb side and be done. Of course I'd do my due diligence on pumps and make sure you can run a standard pump push rod vs. bronze tipped. Just thinking you could spend $200-$250 vs easily $750 on pre filter, AN fittings, an hose, hard line, relays, blah blah blah.... You could always have a do over later with this little fundage invested and have more reliability in my opinion.

[Sti_Guy]

My solution to a similar issue, was to do a surge tank, we have a Walbro in tank pumping up to the surge tank an the 1000 feeding from that.

[GregWeld]

I kind of agree with Todd --- it sounds like you're making a "low cost" buy (the A1000) - into an expensive overkill...

A good quality mechanical fuel pump - use the existing tank - feed lines - and you've got more than enough fuel system. Sell the A1000 and buy everything you need and have $$ left over.

[Sti_Guy]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I kind of agree with Todd --- it sounds like you're making a "low cost" buy (the A1000) - into an expensive overkill...

A good quality mechanical fuel pump - use the existing tank - feed lines - and you've got more than enough fuel system. Sell the A1000 and buy everything you need and have $$ left over.

After getting more info and seeing the options I would also go to a mechanical pump. But i do remember the guy at aeromotive saying these pumps would suck a given distance and be fine. Id just call and make sure. The mechanical pump would be a simpler solution for sure.