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  #71  
Old 07-10-2018, 09:18 PM
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Flash68 Flash68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
So, I'm not sure what is different but the first picture in this post is huge and the rest are prefect in size... Is it just me?
I think so.... but then again you are kinda special.
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  #72  
Old 07-11-2018, 08:29 AM
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Well ****.......you guys are right. I was trying to take the easy way out on the panhard but its not the right way.

Ill order up some brackets and chop it off when I get back home from working out of town this week.

Thanks for being jerks and calling me out.

Sean
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  #73  
Old 07-11-2018, 10:00 AM
ScotI ScotI is offline
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Originally Posted by hackster View Post
Well ****.......you guys are right. I was trying to take the easy way out on the panhard but its not the right way.

Ill order up some brackets and chop it off when I get back home from working out of town this week.

Thanks for being jerks and calling me out.

Sean
Please educate the rest of us "not in the know".

I always understood the Panhard bar should be level (@ ride height) & @ axle C/L or slightly below on a street car (track only might be different).
What's the problem here?
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  #74  
Old 07-11-2018, 10:25 AM
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SSLance SSLance is offline
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Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
I think so.... but then again you are kinda special.
Ahhhh.... Thanks...
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  #75  
Old 07-11-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ScotI View Post
Please educate the rest of us "not in the know".

I always understood the Panhard bar should be level (@ ride height) & @ axle C/L or slightly below on a street car (track only might be different).
What's the problem here?
The panhard bar is an excellent tuning tool. Adjusting its location in relation to both the chassis and the rear axle has a direct impact on roll center and can be used to help with grip. If you have adjustability in its mounting points you can tune that rear roll center and make huge improvements in handling.

Ron Sutton has a class that he puts on that was the first real suspension design class I took, he is much better at explaining it than I will ever be.

Flat at ride height is one equation that is taken into account and probably works ok for street cars, but overall height of the panhard bar, from the ground at ride height and being able to go up or down on both ends is huge.

Dropping the axle side of the panhard bar on my F100 made a huge difference and I should know better.

Take a read through this, its an amazing intro to handling.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=42568

Sean
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  #76  
Old 07-11-2018, 11:57 AM
rustomatic rustomatic is offline
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De nada, dude! If I've got a booger on my nose, it is my hope that somebody will say so. It's the mark of a true friend (not the booger, but the mention thereof)!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hackster View Post
Well ****.......you guys are right. I was trying to take the easy way out on the panhard but its not the right way.

Ill order up some brackets and chop it off when I get back home from working out of town this week.

Thanks for being jerks and calling me out.

Sean
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  #77  
Old 07-11-2018, 12:03 PM
rustomatic rustomatic is offline
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You're right in terms of the level setting, but when you're building a car, the weight (which will change) will be something that affects ride height, along with wheel fitment and what you deem fashionable. When ride height changes (and you have a Panhard, which is like a 250-year old design, by the way), diagonal angle in the bar will be induced, and this will jack the axle one way or another (in a fixed position). That's no bueno. If you can't adjust the angle out (via vertical adjusters and the threaded heims on the bar), there will be an unmovable funk in your car's handling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotI View Post
Please educate the rest of us "not in the know".

I always understood the Panhard bar should be level (@ ride height) & @ axle C/L or slightly below on a street car (track only might be different).
What's the problem here?
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  #78  
Old 07-18-2018, 12:27 AM
67goatman455 67goatman455 is offline
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wow man, my buddy has a turbo LS wagon the same year so i sent this thread over to him.
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  #79  
Old 07-18-2018, 06:39 AM
MSTSFabbed MSTSFabbed is offline
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Dude, I'd watch you build a bicycle if you posted a thread about it!

Always interesting, such quality work, and love the home-built, home-brewed DIY awesome!
Get some rest in there somewhere, I'm tired just from reading about all your work haha!
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  #80  
Old 07-18-2018, 11:18 AM
ScotI ScotI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustomatic View Post
You're right in terms of the level setting, but when you're building a car, the weight (which will change) will be something that affects ride height, along with wheel fitment and what you deem fashionable. When ride height changes (and you have a Panhard, which is like a 250-year old design, by the way), diagonal angle in the bar will be induced, and this will jack the axle one way or another (in a fixed position). That's no bueno. If you can't adjust the angle out (via vertical adjusters and the threaded heims on the bar), there will be an unmovable funk in your car's handling.
I get the 'how it works' portion. I guess I interpreted the original statement incorrectly & read it as there was a serious flaw as installed. It looked functional so that's why I inquired.

I built my 64swb Chevy trucks Panhard bar frame mount as adjustable but when I did my Dually I just set it level @ ride height (full weight on the ground).
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