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  #11  
Old 11-04-2015, 09:18 PM
BBC71Nova BBC71Nova is offline
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Another suggestion for Miller 211 from Zoro. I recently upgraded from a Miller 175 to the 211 for no reason other than getting dual voltage and it was practically a free upgrade. I got my 211 early summer before the new inverter based 211 came out. During that time they were running a $200 machine rebate PLUS a free spool gun. Couple that with the 30% Zoro sale and selling my 175 for $550 and it was easy decision.

The dual voltage came in handy last weekend as I took it to my in laws to swap out an rv generator. I was welding 1/8" material using their 110v 30 amp rv shore power circuit. Worked like a champ. Fallback was to use their dryer plug but fortunately didn't need it.

That said, the transformer model is a heavy unit. Transporting the welder and bottle isn't really that practical so weigh that option accordingly.

If you buy new now you'll likely get the inverter model which is smaller and significantly lighter which may make portability practical.
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2015, 09:43 PM
minendrews68 minendrews68 is offline
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i've got the

hobart 140 also. Great welder, no matter which you choose, take my word, use the shielded gas, not the flux wire. Much better weld that way.
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2015, 11:21 PM
MtotheIKEo MtotheIKEo is offline
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I originally thought like the OP and wanted the most capable machine, ended up buying a Miller 251. Honestly, I never used that machine anywhere close to it's capability. 90% of what I welded was 3/16" and thinner. When I moved I gave that machine and the large cylinder to my brother and bought a new Miller 211 and small cylinder. Way nicer, machine runs awesome, meets all of my needs and more since it is dual voltage capable, and it's way easier to store.
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2015, 12:22 AM
Streetrod77 Streetrod77 is offline
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Thanks for all the info. I will compare the three brands mentioned.
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2015, 11:16 PM
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ErikLS2 ErikLS2 is offline
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I have a Miller 210 which is just awesome but before that I had a little Lincoln 220V from Home Depot that I added a MIG gas package too and it was fine also. I welded an entire Jeep frame and roll cage together with it no problem.
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2015, 12:43 PM
Depthrecordings Depthrecordings is offline
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Miller 211 here also. Awesome welder!
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2015, 01:35 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetrod77 View Post
Thanks for all the info. I will compare the three brands mentioned.


Have to say it.... Don't learn from a guy that doesn't use gas.... You'll learn more from watching YouTube ---- search for "welding tips and tricks" Jody has videos for basic MIG, and beginners, just choose the basic videos to begin with.

If you can afford the $$ and the floor space.... Get a better machine than you think you want/need. You'll only buy one and you'll have it for years... And if you're any good at welding - there's no end to what you can fix or want to make.
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2015, 10:12 PM
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MODO Innovations MODO Innovations is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post

If you can afford the $$ and the floor space.... Get a better machine than you think you want/need. You'll only buy one and you'll have it for years... And if you're any good at welding - there's no end to what you can fix or want to make.
I have to agree with Greg on the statement above.
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2015, 07:57 AM
warriorridge warriorridge is offline
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I have a Hobart 210mvp. It will run on either 110 or 220 volts. It is rated for 3/8 single pass, but that doesn't that doesn't mean you can't ever weld anything thicker. You just have to make your joint right and maybe use more than one pass. Honestly, for automotive work you will rarely have anything thicker than 1/4, so something like the Hobart 210 or miller 211 will be more than adequate for automotive work, with enough extra capacity to do some occasional 3/8 or 1/2. The hobart 210 and miller 211 can run on either 110 volt (although not at full capacity) or 220 volt, so that may be an option for you. The Hobart and miller use the same drive system and torch, but use different electronics, Hobart has stepped voltage control, and the miller has variable voltage control.
As for flux core wire/no gas vs solid wire/gas, the advantage for flux core wire is that it is more tolorant for dirty or rusty metal,
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  #20  
Old 11-07-2015, 08:07 AM
warriorridge warriorridge is offline
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I have a Hobart 210mvp. It will run on either 110 or 220 volts. It is rated for 3/8 single pass, but that doesn't that doesn't mean you can't ever weld anything thicker. You just have to make your joint right and maybe use more than one pass. Honestly, for automotive work you will rarely have anything thicker than 1/4, so something like the Hobart 210 or miller 211 will be more than adequate for automotive work, with enough extra capacity to do some occasional 3/8 or 1/2. The hobart 210 and miller 211 can run on either 110 volt (although not at full capacity) or 220 volt, so that may be an option for you. The Hobart and miller use the same drive system and torch, but use different electronics, Hobart has stepped voltage control, and the miller has variable voltage control.
As for flux core wire/no gas vs solid wire/gas, the advantage for flux core wire is that it is more tolorant of dirty or rusty metal, and you don't have to carry a gas cylinder. The disadvantage is that it doesn't weld as nicely, more spatter than with gas, and the weld has a slag coating that will need to be removed. Also flux core won't work for thin sheet metal.
Solid wire with gas works much nicer, for automotive work, I would recommend using gas. Hope this helps...
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