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  #21  
Old 07-01-2009, 12:06 AM
olds olds is offline
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Greg weld -

As I was saying, and you haven't answered and never will because you found 'temperature' and 'egr' in the same sentence and blew a load, that an EGR valve lowers temp of exhaust

The amount of energy used in combustion is determined by your ignition system. That doesn't change with the opening of a valve or the amount of air/fuel ratios that are given to spark. If there is no change in E input, the exhaust gases are the same temperature as before.


Let me give you the reason why I started getting on to all you:

Quote:
I'm not the one who thought an EGR valve is directly related to exhaust temperatures.
As I've tried to explain and you simply can't understand no matter how much you google, cuz you won't stop and think...

there is no effect on the temp of exhaust gases with or without an EGR valve.


You can wrap your exhaust in dry ice and intercool it for all I care and you'll still have the same emissions.

Bunch of immature idiots on here that cant think for themselves, later. doors don't hit me in the ass
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2009, 09:02 AM
wedged wedged is offline
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Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post

Class is over on this one.

It certainly is. I just realized how much money I wasted on school, the time wasted of having 20+ years of experience, having been a NYS emissions inspector, the time & effort spent to become an ASE Master Tech with Advanced Engine Performance Specialist certification... only to find out that the SAE, all of the automobile manufacturers and countless scientists around the world are all wrong or have been lying to us...

Gregweld- I'm not sure if it is still in print, but there's a really good,(but apparently fictional) book about internal combustion engines you might want to try to find. It's called Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution by Edward F. Obert. It's kind of old and very technical, but I occasionally grab it out of the closet and read portions of it when my mind wanders.

Last edited by wedged; 07-02-2009 at 10:52 AM. Reason: damn typos
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  #23  
Old 07-01-2009, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by olds View Post
Greg weld -

As I was saying, and you haven't answered and never will because you found 'temperature' and 'egr' in the same sentence and blew a load, that an EGR valve lowers temp of exhaust

The amount of energy used in combustion is determined by your ignition system. That doesn't change with the opening of a valve or the amount of air/fuel ratios that are given to spark. If there is no change in E input, the exhaust gases are the same temperature as before.


Let me give you the reason why I started getting on to all you:



As I've tried to explain and you simply can't understand no matter how much you google, cuz you won't stop and think...

there is no effect on the temp of exhaust gases with or without an EGR valve.


You can wrap your exhaust in dry ice and intercool it for all I care and you'll still have the same emissions.

Bunch of immature idiots on here that cant think for themselves, later. doors don't hit me in the ass

@ OLDS

Your valve is stuck in the closed position... and that just can't possibly have a good outcome.

EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

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  #24  
Old 07-01-2009, 01:37 PM
Y-TRY Y-TRY is offline
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I'm kinda getting in on this late, and only read the thread hoping to get an answer to the original PCV question but...

It sure looks like the basis of olds' argument is the idea that 'combustion temps' and 'exhaust temps' are different and completely independent of the other. Is that what you are saying olds? I absolutely disagree with that claim.

gregweld has provided documentation that combustion temps are lowered through the introduction of recirculated exhaust gasses, via the EGR valve.

A lean mixture=high combustion temps= high exhaust temps. The opposite is certainly true. The recirculated exhaust has the effect of fattening the mixture without introducing more fuel. Rich mix= cooler combustion temps= cooler exhaust gas. I'm just wondering where that's losing anyone.
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  #25  
Old 07-02-2009, 12:47 AM
BritishGreen68 BritishGreen68 is offline
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Originally Posted by Zapan00 View Post
I tried to set it up with a breather on the passenger side valve cover, the pcv valve in the drivers side valve cover, and the hose from the pcv valve to a port on the bottom of my air cleaner, but it does the same thing (still leaks and pushes dipstick out.)

Should i try using one of the other vacuum hookups on the carb, even though they aren't specifically for pcv?

-Matt-
SGT USMC
If you have a breather on the valve cover of any kind that should be enough to not push out a dipstick and have oil spray everywhere, that would be what would happen with no breather at all and a basically sealed up engine. I have ran numerous small blocks with breathers or one valve cover, and pcv on the other and had no issues. I have had a little bit of oil come out of breathers before but barely any, and no where near what your describing. I believe you have bigger issues at hand.
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  #26  
Old 07-02-2009, 08:57 AM
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@ NotNew

This is what I said earlier in this thread... that there must be something else going on here... to have that much 'blow by' to lift the dipstick!

I'd be doing a leak down test on that motor before I did another thing to it...

I've run some pretty potent motors in my day - big and small blocks - and NEVER had that kind of crankcase pressure...

My 427 cubic inch small block will load up the filling in the breather and eventually drip a drop or two of oil on the valve cover... but we're talking about a motor with NO vacuum (8 stack EFI) and NO PCV. I have now (just yesterday as a matter of fact) run a catch can plumbed to a fitting in the fuel pump block off plate... so hopefully that will take the bottom end pulses and keep the breather from loading up with oil fumes. The problem with having no piston / skirt - and a real tight ring pack... I think the compression height of the pistons are 1.100 so there's just not much there to control 'oil'. BUT even at 7000 rpm's -- I've never blown oil out a gasket or lifted the dipstick!!
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  #27  
Old 07-03-2009, 12:56 AM
BritishGreen68 BritishGreen68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
@ NotNew

This is what I said earlier in this thread... that there must be something else going on here... to have that much 'blow by' to lift the dipstick!

I'd be doing a leak down test on that motor before I did another thing to it...

I've run some pretty potent motors in my day - big and small blocks - and NEVER had that kind of crankcase pressure...

My 427 cubic inch small block will load up the filling in the breather and eventually drip a drop or two of oil on the valve cover... but we're talking about a motor with NO vacuum (8 stack EFI) and NO PCV. I have now (just yesterday as a matter of fact) run a catch can plumbed to a fitting in the fuel pump block off plate... so hopefully that will take the bottom end pulses and keep the breather from loading up with oil fumes. The problem with having no piston / skirt - and a real tight ring pack... I think the compression height of the pistons are 1.100 so there's just not much there to control 'oil'. BUT even at 7000 rpm's -- I've never blown oil out a gasket or lifted the dipstick!!
Damn you must run like 8 egr valves on that thing?!?!? lol J/K.. i'm building my 408 small block right now and it has very short piston skirts and i have been planning some sort of breather setup for it because i know it will need a good one.. I like the fuel pump block off to a catch can idea, never thought of that. I run an electric fuel pump too..
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  #28  
Old 07-03-2009, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotNew View Post
Damn you must run like 8 egr valves on that thing?!?!? lol J/K.. i'm building my 408 small block right now and it has very short piston skirts and i have been planning some sort of breather setup for it because i know it will need a good one.. I like the fuel pump block off to a catch can idea, never thought of that. I run an electric fuel pump too..


@NotNew

YES!! I do run multiple EGR valves -- but they're not what you think they're for!! I run them just to use up the excess vacuum... since they're "just a valve" and they really don't do what they say they do... and frankly, I like really hot exhaust temps and making lots and lots of pollution.

Okay - seriously - I will de-stroke the 427 the next rebuild... and will use a hypereutectic piston rather than the forged. I know that on this website that would be "insane", but this is just in a street rod... and the oil control could use some improvement... and the sloppy pistons at cold start bug the hell out of me.

PS -- In the close up of the catch can - the 90* fitting on the line isn't done correctly - but used it just for mockup. The fitting stripped before I could get the POS to mate up... so had to take it off and polish up another one for final assembly. I just didn't want anyone thinking that I did that kind of work!! LOL I also oiled the breather after final assembly too! So let's not start a whole new thread about that... please.
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Last edited by GregWeld; 07-03-2009 at 09:08 AM. Reason: explanation
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  #29  
Old 07-03-2009, 08:59 AM
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@ NotNew

Forgot:

I tapped the block off plate with a 3/8" NPT tap - and got a 3/8" to -10 AN straight fitting... then used a -10 swivel 90 off that... I had to convert the Moroso can from a straight O ringed -12 to a straight O ringed 12 to -10 AN

I already had the -10 hose and 90's... and the hole for the pushrod in the block is only about 3/8's so I used that size to go by for the blow by (clever huh?). The -12 stuff is so big... and I couldn't see using that when the largest hole in the system for air (crankcase yuk) would be restricted by the dia of the pushrod hole. So far this seems to work really well.
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