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  #81  
Old 10-08-2018, 04:52 PM
Brianstanford Brianstanford is offline
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power steering pressure hose

earls -6 powers steering hose
2x xrp 90 degree -6 hose ends
earls -6 an to 18mm X 1.50 adaptor
earls an adapter to power steering pump 961961ERL

return hose i used a edelmann 39106 fitting and rubber hose
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  #82  
Old 10-08-2018, 04:55 PM
Brianstanford Brianstanford is offline
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air intake. 4'' spectre tube, summit silicone hose couplers and a 7'' airaid dry filter
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  #83  
Old 10-08-2018, 07:04 PM
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Motor and trans together. Had to put an 1/8" shim behind the slave cylinder

Excuse my messy 2 car garage haha!

Waiting on polyurethane motor mounts to show up and then I'll be stabbing the motor/trans in the car ��
Why did you have to put a shim behind the slave cylinder? What a great build. Im subscribed!!!!
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  #84  
Old 10-08-2018, 07:11 PM
Brianstanford Brianstanford is offline
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Originally Posted by aany001 View Post
Why did you have to put a shim behind the slave cylinder? What a great build. Im subscribed!!!!
thank you!

quote from tick performance-

During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:
Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

my #'s were-
trans side 1 7/8''
motor side 2 1/8''
1/4'' gap
need 1/8'' shim

Last edited by Brianstanford; 10-08-2018 at 07:16 PM.
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  #85  
Old 10-08-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Brianstanford View Post
thank you!

quote from tick performance-

During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:
Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

my #'s were-
trans side 1 7/8''
motor side 2 1/8''
1/4'' gap
need 1/8'' shim
Wow that's really good info there. Im running a stock T56 and clutch and had no issues with clutch engagement but did go through 2 slave cylinders 1 new and 1 used both GM pieces ( both leaked and ruined my clutch disc) I removed the shim that I had and so far no issues with 4k miles. Weird huh
Maybe a fluke thing
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  #86  
Old 10-08-2018, 08:02 PM
Brianstanford Brianstanford is offline
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Originally Posted by aany001 View Post
Wow that's really good info there. Im running a stock T56 and clutch and had no issues with clutch engagement but did go through 2 slave cylinders 1 new and 1 used both GM pieces ( both leaked and ruined my clutch disc) I removed the shim that I had and so far no issues with 4k miles. Weird huh
Maybe a fluke thing
that is crazy! hopefully it works out for me with the shim. defiantly don't want to buy another clutch or slave lol
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  #87  
Old 10-09-2018, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Brianstanford View Post
air intake. 4'' spectre tube, summit silicone hose couplers and a 7'' airaid dry filter
Hard to tell if the intake tube is in front of the fan or not. It looks very similar to mine and i had to raise mine up above the fan. If it is in front of the fan it will get heated when the fan is on. Problem being is the mass air is reading the incoming air temp and the air gets heated directly after the mass air. It could cause a spark knock because the ECM thinks the air temp is lower. Any-who something to think about.
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  #88  
Old 10-10-2018, 11:53 AM
Brianstanford Brianstanford is offline
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Sean View Post
Hard to tell if the intake tube is in front of the fan or not. It looks very similar to mine and i had to raise mine up above the fan. If it is in front of the fan it will get heated when the fan is on. Problem being is the mass air is reading the incoming air temp and the air gets heated directly after the mass air. It could cause a spark knock because the ECM thinks the air temp is lower. Any-who something to think about.
Thanks! It is in front of the fan a little bit. Didn't even think of heat soak on the intake tube.
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  #89  
Old 10-11-2018, 08:04 AM
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This might help in keeping the intake tube as cool as possible......exhaust wrap, plus if you're not into polished aluminum look it tones down the shininess of the tube with a few colour options.
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  #90  
Old 10-11-2018, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by F'in mine View Post
This might help in keeping the intake tube as cool as possible......exhaust wrap, plus if you're not into polished aluminum look it tones down the shininess of the tube with a few colour options.
Not sure I'd do that, wouldn't it heat soak and then take longer to cool? The heat reflective tape, the gold or silver work better at reflecting the heat?
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