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  #261  
Old 10-22-2018, 08:25 AM
alex n alex n is offline
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Very nice , I will try to post pics of my modified Anvil fenders. I like to use epoxy resin and cloth , it is more expensive however it doesn’t out gas or smell whatsoever, one characteristic of it that can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on application is the long cure time
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  #262  
Old 10-22-2018, 08:47 AM
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Ah perfect write up, thank you. I'm also not worried about the texture on the inside, the outside where visible is my concern, which is easy to take care of. I'll fore sure flip the car over to build the tubs if I can. I think the trick will be to get it mounted up with the front fenders mounted to the car.

I like the idea of using drywall joint compound, that will for sure speed sanding along. My goal is to build these out of carbon, so I'll just be able to lay it up and vacuum bag it.
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  #263  
Old 10-26-2018, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixtrix1 View Post
Looks great! Where are you mounting your sub straps?
Here are the pics of how I anchored the sub strap. Grade 5 nut welded to a small 3/16" thick plate. According the DJ Safety, given the relatively light stress on this point in an event, this should be more than enough. I did anchor it to the flange of the frame as well as the floor, both inside the car and on the bottom.
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  #264  
Old 10-26-2018, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex n View Post
Very nice , I will try to post pics of my modified Anvil fenders. I like to use epoxy resin and cloth , it is more expensive however it doesn’t out gas or smell whatsoever, one characteristic of it that can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on application is the long cure time
Looking forward to seeing them! Good point! Wish someone would invent resin that smells like race gas!! Instant millionaire!
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  #265  
Old 10-26-2018, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroAJ View Post
Ah perfect write up, thank you. I'm also not worried about the texture on the inside, the outside where visible is my concern, which is easy to take care of. I'll fore sure flip the car over to build the tubs if I can. I think the trick will be to get it mounted up with the front fenders mounted to the car.

I like the idea of using drywall joint compound, that will for sure speed sanding along. My goal is to build these out of carbon, so I'll just be able to lay it up and vacuum bag it.
I think if you build some type of extended flange on the mold, you could easily vacuum bag it. I almost talked myself into that. Honestly the glass ones are pretty frickin' light...not carbon light...but pretty light. That said, the carbon on the inside would look trick. Steve Lenning's look awesome!

Here is the rotisserie mounts that I built for the front. Auto Twirler does sell some but I couldn't tell if they would clear the lower valence and , as you know, that piece needs to be on to anchor the fender in place. I was a little nervous rolling it over given that I hadn't welded in the roll bars from the fire wall to the frame yet. I wanted too but having the inner's done first so I could get the bars down close to them seemed the better idea. The filler on the molds did stress crack a little when I settled the car on the rotisserie but none of the fender gaps changed at all, zero thousandths...according to the dial calipers. So, feel pretty good about nothing moved. That said, I would've felt a lot better if those bars were in place first, was a risk.
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  #266  
Old 10-26-2018, 02:35 PM
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I could build plates like that and go through the grille opening when I get to the point again. That will keep everything out of my way too.

I'll keep that in mind about the joint compound cracking. My goal is to have visible carbon in the engine bay and I'll back it up with glass/kevlar since it doesn't matter whats on the back side.
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  #267  
Old 10-26-2018, 06:33 PM
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Amazing write up! Thanks. They looks great, always amazing work.
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  #268  
Old 10-29-2018, 10:25 PM
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My thinking: There really isn't a good/solid/safe place to put jack stands on the narrowed rear rail (after install of DSE 4link) because the lower link bar is below the frame rail, it’s just tight and cumbersome. Also, given that the front subframe is wider than most jack stand posts making it a little unstable/insecure....and that both of these locations are not ideal for the lift pads such that there is low risk of the car shifting/sliding in the front and the same clearance issues exist in the rear....and that you really need to raise the car first, before being able to put it on the lift, I built these points to solve the above.

In the rear, this point is affixed to the lower 4 link mount that I made. This whole area is tied to the rear frame rail which is/will be basically attached to the rear roll bar down tube.
o2.jpg

In the front this lifting point is placed on top of 1/8” thick pad that will be connected to the front down tube of the roll bar.
o3.jpg

I will add a lifting point for the floor jack which will lift from the new trans x-member which is connected to the roll cage.

Built them this way so there was effectively a couple of “feet” that will dig into the lift pads to further anchor the car in place. Also, these little feet serve to help keep the car from slipping on the jack stands. Also, these front and rear points will provide for the car to be perfectly level on lift.
Agreed, all of this is a bit of overkill but it only added about 7lbs and I think it will make life easier overall.
o1.jpgo4.jpg

Interested in your thoughts.
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  #269  
Old 10-29-2018, 10:38 PM
MtotheIKEo MtotheIKEo is online now
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Not a bad idea!
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  #270  
Old 10-31-2018, 09:04 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Great idea! I run into this issue when lifting my TA for the exact reasons you mentioned.
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