...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Transmission and Rear End
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-13-2008, 10:36 PM
01somta 01somta is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 174
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Hydraulic vs Mechanical clutch

I am about to pull the trigger and order my tko600 setup for my 502 in my first gen. What would be recommended for a street/show car hydraulic or mechanical clutch?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-14-2008, 04:41 AM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,859
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I know that you already have talked about this a bit (BTW, thanks for your TKO conversion order). So I know that you know my opinion but I thought I would say it on the forum. Chevrolet invented the Camaro's mechanical linkage and 40 years later is works on used and abused wore out junkers. The hydraulics can be a PIA to bleed and maintain. If you use a Mcleod hydraulic bearing, you have to be sure the clutch is operated at least every couple weeks as the sealing O Ring in the bearing is lubricated buy the fluid it is retaining. This warning comes straight from Red Roberts (inventer of the bearing and founder of Mcleod). And like any other hydraulic cylinder it has a life expectancy. The mechanical Z bar has a almost unlimited life expectancy.

With that said as I write this I have 3 hydraulic bearing cars in the garage, Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest, and Michael's Monte Carlo.

So my answer is this:

If mechanical linkage is available (for Camaros it is), try to run mechanical linkage

If you have space limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

If there is no factory linkage (or limited factory linkage, hard to find / expensive) run hydraulic (ala Michael's Monte Carlo)

If you have appearance limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

Cost, the mechanical stuff is $200, the bearing is $400
__________________
Frank Serafine
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-14-2008, 07:33 AM
Bowtieracing Bowtieracing is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Finland
Posts: 1,914
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I believe what Frank says i right on but if you can use any factory stuff - use it. I have had T56 with stock hydraulics and it worked like a dream. No aftermarket can match the factory engineered stuff ( at least when it comes to LSx era )
__________________
63 Z06
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-14-2008, 07:35 AM
01somta 01somta is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 174
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms View Post
I know that you already have talked about this a bit (BTW, thanks for your TKO conversion order). So I know that you know my opinion but I thought I would say it on the forum. Chevrolet invented the Camaro's mechanical linkage and 40 years later is works on used and abused wore out junkers. The hydraulics can be a PIA to bleed and maintain. If you use a Mcleod hydraulic bearing, you have to be sure the clutch is operated at least every couple weeks as the sealing O Ring in the bearing is lubricated buy the fluid it is retaining. This warning comes straight from Red Roberts (inventer of the bearing and founder of Mcleod). And like any other hydraulic cylinder it has a life expectancy. The mechanical Z bar has a almost unlimited life expectancy.

With that said as I write this I have 3 hydraulic bearing cars in the garage, Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest, and Michael's Monte Carlo.

So my answer is this:

If mechanical linkage is available (for Camaros it is), try to run mechanical linkage

If you have space limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

If there is no factory linkage (or limited factory linkage, hard to find / expensive) run hydraulic (ala Michael's Monte Carlo)

If you have appearance limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

Cost, the mechanical stuff is $200, the bearing is $400

I asked you in a pm, but I didn't think I got an answer. But, I guess this will definetly answer it for me.

Thanks Dustin
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-14-2008, 08:02 AM
XcYZ's Avatar
XcYZ XcYZ is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 8,963
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Dustin, when I had a TKO, I used the mechanical linkage, but made my own rods and used heim joints. Was smooth as butter, I was extremely happy with it.
__________________
Scott

My LS7 69 Camaro
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-14-2008, 09:11 AM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 916
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 34 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XcYZ View Post
Dustin, when I had a TKO, I used the mechanical linkage, but made my own rods and used heim joints. Was smooth as butter, I was extremely happy with it.
That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.

I prefer a mechanical clutch to a hydraulic any day of the week. The pedal just "feels" better and you have a better feel what the clutch is doing.

Hydraulic clutches are nice and smooth but don't really provide much feedback. Sometimes you don't have any other option though, such as extensive chassis / engine mods or headers in the way.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 05-14-2008 at 09:17 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-14-2008, 02:13 PM
malibu795 malibu795 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: springfield OH
Posts: 103
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

i went HYD on my malibu. i was straped for time and space. i used a mcloed hyd through out and a 4rd gen f-body master cylinder and braided ss line.

i got mcloeds cnc master cylinder fo the F-bodys here ready to indstall just havent done it yet..

running hyd gave me more options for exhaust routing as well..

on benifet of hyd over mech is automatice slack adjust ment. clutch disendgate ment is always at the top of the pedel travel
__________________
Adam Wildman
99 C3500HD dmax/4l85E
79 malibu wagon 468bbc/ t-56/8.8
U.S. Navy 2000-2008
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-15-2008, 01:33 AM
COYBILT's Avatar
COYBILT COYBILT is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: modesto,ca
Posts: 646
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

If you like a to to feel everything that is going on, go mechanical.
I would love to run one on my car but my chassis wont allow for it so hydro it is.
keep it mechanical its worth it every bit.
__________________
1965 GTO convertible
2009 GM Design Award winner
Triple black with Subtle yet massive Modifications.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-16-2008, 08:46 PM
cheezer cheezer is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 120
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353 View Post
That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.
You can get stuff like that here:

http://cmc.speeddirect.com/items.asp?Cc=RODLINKS&Bc=

cheezer
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-16-2008, 08:58 PM
ProTouring442's Avatar
ProTouring442 ProTouring442 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Posts: 1,330
Thanks: 19
Thanked 37 Times in 16 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353 View Post
That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.

I prefer a mechanical clutch to a hydraulic any day of the week. The pedal just "feels" better and you have a better feel what the clutch is doing.

Hydraulic clutches are nice and smooth but don't really provide much feedback. Sometimes you don't have any other option though, such as extensive chassis / engine mods or headers in the way.
I used the factory Z-Bar on my 442, but made the linkage with heim joints. While I have not yet been able to drive the thing, I can tell you that the difference in the feel is phenomenal! With the factory linkage, even well greased, the action was rough and stiff, but with the Heim the action is smooth and much easier.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
__________________
You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net