1967 Mustang 03 4.6L SVT Terminator swap

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This build has taken 3 years to this point. The 1st paint shop went out of business a few weeks after i dropped the car off and he took my $4,000 deposit with him. The second painter/body shop had the car for 18 months. I had the car for about 6 months after the car was finally painted, but soon realized that the shock towers had not been notched correctly and had to take the car to another shop to have the engine fit. I received the car back from the most recent shop in June, but due to two other builds, i could not resume work on the car until recently.
Anyway, here is the build from start to current progress.

1967 mustang fastback purchased in Spring of 2008. Bodywork started in late 08 and then modifications were made to engine compartment etc, starting in 09 when the 4.6L terminator motor was purchased.

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August 09

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November 2009




http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...e/IMG_0084.jpg


December 2009












January-February 2010

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March 2010

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May 2010

Suspension and Brakes





Floor pans Sprayed with Lizard Skin







Side stripes applied



Taillamps and back up lights installed


April 18th 2010.














Wiring from The Detail Zone

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This is the point where i stopped and took the car to the 3rd shop to have the shock towers notched further back, the intercooler, radiator, reservoirs, etc installed, have the headers fit, etc. Initially the overpriced RRS notching kit was used, which probably would have been fine, but the first shop installed it incorrectly-they did not follow the templates i provided and the towers were not notched far enough. In hindsight, the motor should have been fit before the car ever even though about going into the paint booth and before the notching kit was welded in place....live and learn. In addition, it would have also been cheaper and smarter to simply buy plate steel and cut it out myself instead of buying the notching kit and paying for shipping from Australia-doh!


2003 Mustang Radiator and fan installed.











AC condensor from old air products. This is a great system and they really take pride in manufacturing high quality systems



Aftercooler AFCO double pass


09 CobraJet EGR Block off plate. It looked like it would fit, so i ordered it. Glad that it does.



Shock Towers notched further back for more clearance-total waste of time and money. If you are going to do this type of conversion, use a suspension like the TCI system that eliminates the towers





The engine mount supports had to be notched for exhaust header clearance.





The Ford Racing Driver's side exhaust header had to be cut and rewelded to clear the TCP power steering rack.


Engine compartment repaint. I decided to go with black for a better contrast since the engine is gray.

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And here is the video i made when i got the car home in June. It sounds like i am redlining the car, but i was only bumping it to about 4,000rpm. Warning, it gets loud around the 44 second mark.

Little did i know at the time that the alternator wiring was hooked up backwards, the power steering pressure line was sitting against the drivers manifold, none of the power steering lines were tight, wires were touching the headers, oil pan plugs were not tight etc. and so on. Always thoroughly check other peoples work!!! It was fun cleaning up two quarts of power steering fluid off the garage floor. Fortunately, the power steering line is wrapped in Kevlar, which prevented it from melting. It was only slightly singed from the manifold heat. I was also fortunate that alternator did not burn out. The shop had already had the unit rebuilt at my expense once due to the wiring mishap. It helps if wires are labeled correctly.

Official Run Video

Enjoy! Please keep in mind that the 02 sensors and exhaust from manifolds back are not even hooked up yet. Actually, you will figure out that the exhaust isnt hooked up pretty fast. Rumble, Rumble! Exciting times!!!
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[video=youtube;ksKYZkkvmWo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksKYZkkvmWo[/video]

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And here is what I have managed to do since i brought the car home in June. As i mentioned previously, i had to finish another ongoing build, so I did not really start working on the car again until about 6 weeks ago and it has been on and off since then.
The welds were not finished on the towers, which was ok because the RRS system had to come back out to receive its new 400 lb springs anyway. The 275 pd springs that were installed are no match for the heavy 4.6L motor.

Before. Note: I did not run those wires, but i got to rework them. They fell right out of the plug that connects to the coolant pump for the supercharger. Nice!



Another before



After Grinding



After two layers of bondo and lots of sanding. NOTE: dont ever try to use the BONDO brand they sell at your local auto parts store. I thought it would be ok for the shock towers, but the stuff was terrible. I went to the paint shop yesterday and purchased some Rage filler.



And finally, after respraying the entire wheel well aprons, and shock towers with new undercoating.

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9 hours total spent on making over the driver's side shock tower. The front suspension is back in, but i had to remove all of the power steering lines because not a single fitting was tight, one of the lines was right on top of the driver's rear header tube, and the lines on the front of the engine were a little less than a 1/4" away from the engine belt and were held together with a zip tie. While i had the power steering lines out, I was able to see that the wiring for the alternator was run incorrectly, which was causing the battery to receive a steady 16 volts while the car was running. This was causing the expensive Optima to percolate acid and also fried the alternator once already at the last shop.

Before. The wires that were run through the brake line hole go the alternator. They were draped over the suspension and run under the frame rail. Very nice and not my work. The main feed wire to the back of the alternator was run next to the shorty headers, where it would have eventually either fallen into the header and burned up, or best case scenario, fatigued from heat over time.



After grinding down the welds and removing the MIG wire that was sticking out in several locations.



5 skim coats of rage gold and tons of hand sanding later.



End result.