...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Transmission and Rear End
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-27-2004, 01:21 PM
Keith's Avatar
Keith Keith is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Las Vegas Baby
Posts: 300
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default C-Clip eliminators

I'm ordering all the rear end stuff I need right now and since i'm going with rear discs, is c-clip eliminators something that would be benificial in my application? It's a 10 blt. with 2.73's and I'm probably leaning towards the Eaton posi unit for it.....thanks. Also, I've done a little searching but is there a comprehensive website where I can get all the details of rebuilding the rear?
__________________
There's nothing more common than unsucessful men with talent
GENESIS CHEVELLE
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-27-2004, 02:42 PM
Keith's Avatar
Keith Keith is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Las Vegas Baby
Posts: 300
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Ok...so I found a good tech site here and I'm pretty sure I don't want to get c-clip eliminators since the car will autocross a few times with light street use and I'm reading that they are prone to leaks. Does anyone have an opinion on this either way? Thanks again...
__________________
There's nothing more common than unsucessful men with talent
GENESIS CHEVELLE
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-27-2004, 03:00 PM
XcYZ's Avatar
XcYZ XcYZ is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 8,963
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Several of my friends use them, and yes, they do tend to leak.

Since you're going to run disk brakes, you have a poor man's (yeah right, lol) C-clip eliminator setup. Unless the axle breaks at the hub, the rotor should keep it contained in the housing. All the axles that I've seen break, have failed at the splines.

Anyone else?
__________________
Scott

My LS7 69 Camaro
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-27-2004, 03:12 PM
harshman's Avatar
harshman harshman is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

bah!!!

You don't need them as they would be redundant. Spend the money on more shiny parts!!!
__________________
It's shake and bake... and i helped!!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-27-2004, 03:37 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 916
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 34 Posts
Default

Personally, I would not spend any money/time upgrading the 10 bolt; step up to a 12 bolt or 9 inch especially if you plan on running a lot of power through it and ever plan on running slicks. The 10 bolt is sort of a "dead end" in my opinion.

That being said, the BEST way to do the c-clip eliminator conversion (regardless of 10 or 12 bolt) is not to use the bolt on eliminators, but to have the factory ends chopped off the axle tubes and have Ford style press-on bearing ends welded onto the factory axle tubes. Much stronger and no leaks. It may be hard to find a shop that can do this properly, as they will need a jig to keep everything nice and square when they weld it. If you find a shop that hasn't done it before but "think they can" I would turn tail and run. Find an experienced shop to do this job! If they don't get the ends on nice and square you are looking at rapid bearing/axle wear plus driveability issues as the tires won't be pointed properly (toe and camber issues.)

Aftermarket 12-bolt housings are available with Ford style ends already welded on for you; Moser and KTRE come to mind.

My personal favorite is a 9" housing with a 12-bolt carrier; you get press on axles, an easily removeable carrier, and the decreased frictional losses of the 12-bolt gearset. Basically a Ford 9" housing with 12-bolt gears/carrier in it. A little odd sounding, but a very good setup!

Troy
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 12-27-2004 at 10:35 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-27-2004, 05:13 PM
Keith's Avatar
Keith Keith is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Las Vegas Baby
Posts: 300
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Cool, thanks guys!! As weird at it sounds, my rear is a 8.5" 10blt vs. the "supposed-to-be" 8.2" in the car. For the application, I think doing a beefy 12 or 9 will be unneccesary as a strong 8.5 has proven itself well for the 10 sec budget racers. I'm running an auto with freeway gears and the car will only see the 1320 and autocross track a few time for numbers and dialing-in. Other than that, it's just going to be cruised and enjoyed on road trips and shows.
Troy- I definitely appreciate your input on this and the 9" w/ the 12 blt carrier seems ideal for the next project I'm designing right now! Thanks for the advice.
__________________
There's nothing more common than unsucessful men with talent
GENESIS CHEVELLE
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-27-2004, 06:05 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 916
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 34 Posts
Default

So it's a B-O-P 10 bolt? Agreed, they are stronger than the Chevy 10 bolts, in which case I'd keep the thing. I wish you luck in finding a competent shop to weld the Ford-style ends on the tubes, it may be a difficult search. Hopefully someone can chime in with a recommendation.

Troy
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-27-2004, 08:04 PM
XcYZ's Avatar
XcYZ XcYZ is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Posts: 8,963
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I sold my 12 bolt for a huge chunk of money, it almost paid for my Currie 9" with aluminum case. Getting rid of the C-clips was part of the decision to go with the 9". That great advice that Troy gave.
__________________
Scott

My LS7 69 Camaro
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-27-2004, 10:34 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 916
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 34 Posts
Default

Scott, I envy you Camaro (aka leafspring) guys as you can run those super-trick Currie aluminum center sections. I can't run one as they don't have provisions for the 2 upper links of my factory 4-link. I suppose I could weld brackets on there myself, but having some brackets welded to cast aluminum as a very important structural piece of my rear suspension scares me more than just a little.

I also hear you on 12 bolt prices. They are going for CRAZY amounts of money. I got my 12 bolt for free about 5 years ago, ran it for a while with the original 2.73 pegleg, then put new gears/carrier/axles/bearings in it. I could probably sell it as it stands now without the brakes for ~$1700, and even with 2 sets of gears and bearings through it I'd still come out money ahead!

I have my eye on a Fab-9 housing with an aluminum 12-bolt carrier, but since I have either a 3-link or IRS in my future so I'm not going to be buying the Fab-9 until I make up my mind; my 12-bolt will do just fine for now.

Troy
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 12-28-2004 at 12:56 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-28-2004, 11:17 AM
MarkM66's Avatar
MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,958
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353
So it's a B-O-P 10 bolt? Agreed, they are stronger than the Chevy 10 bolts, in which case I'd keep the thing. I wish you luck in finding a competent shop to weld the Ford-style ends on the tubes, it may be a difficult search. Hopefully someone can chime in with a recommendation.

Troy
It's probably a Chevy 8.5" ten bold. The early 10 bolts where 8.2", then they switched to 8.5". I'm not sure when they did it with the Chevelles. But for the Nova's they did it in '71. This rear end will swap into a 1st gen Camaro, and is a nice upgrade. I did it on my '68.

My '70 Nova has the 8.2", .
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net