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  #41  
Old 10-30-2014, 09:11 AM
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Hello.... THAT was not my idea... I only use vinegar to clean the coffee pot! I'd have walked that nasty azz rod right over to the bead blaster and 50 seconds later it'd be rust free...

THEN --- my idea was to make a TIG torch holder.... and that's where YOUR talent should begin.


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


Will be a kool project.
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  #42  
Old 10-30-2014, 10:03 AM
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I save cereal boxes because they are about the right thickness to use for sheet metal work. I use them for patterns to make sheet metal parts.

I had a thought the other day to build a template for a transmission hump. I covered the hole over my TKO with cardboard, used a 3" lid to get the diameter of the shifter plate.

I screwed the cardboard to the hole, covered it with wax paper, and then began the fiberglass layup process.

Fits like OJ's gloves

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  #43  
Old 10-30-2014, 03:03 PM
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"If the glove doesn't fit, you must vote to acquit!" (or whatever was actually said)


Hope it fit better than OJ's glove! Thanks for the bad memories.... LOL


GREAT IDEA BY THE WAY!!!
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  #44  
Old 01-11-2015, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoblackmarks... View Post
That was some Nice tips I have not heard before, baking flour on Alu Wheels! Hmm
We always used cornstarch on bare aluminum airplanes to clean and brighten the finish back in my high school days. Flour seemed to "gunk up" and cause streaks. Worked great on our 1948 Cessna 140. Cheap and quick, but not always easy, lol Note: wear a mask!
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2015, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rixtrix1 View Post
We always used cornstarch on bare aluminum airplanes to clean and brighten the finish back in my high school days. Flour seemed to "gunk up" and cause streaks. Worked great on our 1948 Cessna 140. Cheap and quick, but not always easy, lol Note: wear a mask!
Did the same on a T-6 once. ONCE! Way to much surface area IMO. Worked great though.
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  #46  
Old 01-16-2015, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Damn True View Post
Got a complicated surface to template? Don't sit and whittle away at a sheet of posterboard for an hour. Get a length of #6 solid copper ground wire (Lowes elect dept) and bend it to the appropriate shape. Then transfer it to your poster board by tracing. Bends really easily, but holds it's shape well (unless you drop it) and you can straighten it out and use it again.
got to give you credit for this, tremendous help on doing my brake lines
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  #47  
Old 02-02-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by frankv11 View Post
got to give you credit for this, tremendous help on doing my brake lines

Actually that is a great idea for laying out brake lines... I keep old junk sections I pull out of cars and straighten them to use as mockups while bending but this is even better.
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  #48  
Old 02-02-2015, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
When I twist off the head of a bolt the most effective way I have found to remove the remaining thread is to weld a nut on the end of the broken off bolt. The bolt can then be removed with a normal wrench and the heat normally helps loosen the threads.

Great thread BTW!
This also works well for removing stubborn bellhousing dowel pins you aren't reusing. Weld a bolt on to the end of the dowel pin with the threads facing out, use a piece of pipe with a washer that allows the threads to stick out. Antiseize the threads and put a nut on... tighten with impact gun and the dowel pin will pop right out.
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  #49  
Old 02-02-2015, 02:26 PM
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Once a guy learns how to read and use the markings on his bender - the only tool you need is a tape measure. Whether you're bending a 45* or a 90* or measured to the outside or center etx. The minute you figure that out you're bends will look more professional and will land where you want them to.

Just sayin'
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  #50  
Old 02-02-2015, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Once a guy learns how to read and use the markings on his bender - the only tool you need is a tape measure. Whether you're bending a 45* or a 90* or measured to the outside or center etx. The minute you figure that out you're bends will look more professional and will land where you want them to.

Just sayin'
Yes, but tight space stuff comes out nicer if you mock it up first... especially when trying to connect two points in space (like an apron to a master cylinder) with multiple lines and make it all look nice.
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