Painting over original 1969 lacquer paint??

[g356gear]

Hey guys,
I have a 69 Camaro that was painted 20 years ago with base/clear enamel over a lacquer paint job. The entire car was shot with a primer sealer before the enamel was layed down but now there is an issue. As the car has been sitting so long, over time, there are several spots where the paint has lifted making it look like many smalll bubbles under the paint. Obviously the car needs to be painted again but what would be the recommendations for the new paint? Take it down to the original factory lacquer and then what?

The car was painted once back in the late 70's and the color of the car was changed at that point. Problem is that the car had a ton of hours of body work getting it laser straight with that paint job. I think that is why it wasn't taken down when it was refreshed in 89, just sanded down, primed and re-shot. Taking it down to the metal is not really an option for me. I do however want to change back to the original color.

[ProTouring442]

Take it down to metal, then go with a good base/clear. I have utilized both DuPont Premier and R&M Diamont with great success.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[J2SpeedandCustom]

First you need to find out what made the paint "lift" and fix that problem. If it happened in a few spots it can happen all over. Your sure the original is Lacquer?

[g356gear]

First you need to find out what made the paint "lift" and fix that problem. If it happened in a few spots it can happen all over. Your sure the original is Lacquer?

When the color change happened in the late 70's I am fairly certain they stayed with lacquer. At the time of the refresh, the paint had several spots on the roof, trunk deck, tops of the fenders that were spider web cracked fairly badly. I seem to remember that being a good indicator of lacquer breakdown.

[JayR]

I assume you're trying to save time and money by not taking it all the way down to bare metal but your time and money will be wasted by putting new paint over an old inferior lacquer job. Eventually, You will have issues and have to do it all over again. You'd honestly be better off leaving it alone and live with the current issues until you have enough time and money to strip it down all the way. I totally sympathize and know it's not what you want to hear but PT442 is exactly right.

[camaro2nv]

You know the answer, just do it right. Pay now or pay later.

[J2SpeedandCustom]

When the color change happened in the late 70's I am fairly certain they stayed with lacquer. At the time of the refresh, the paint had several spots on the roof, trunk deck, tops of the fenders that were spider web cracked fairly badly. I seem to remember that being a good indicator of lacquer breakdown.

Acrylic Enamel will do the same kind of checking. Technology has come a LONG way since the car was painted. I would first figure out what is causing the bubbles and how deep it goes. Then you'll have more information on which direction you need to take. There are primer/sealers which will lock things down, but if the paint touching the metal is compromised it's not going to matter. Small pin holes in the metal will do the same kind of bubbling. Moisture, contaminents, etc can show up years down the road in a paint job.

You have to determine what is the car worth? Does it make sense to put money in a paint job?

[elitecustombody]

I can understand when you're trying to preserve factory paint and just do spot repair, but with two repaints on the car with old junk lacquer and acrylic, it makes no sense to even waste time , just take it down to metal and start from scratch, you'd be amazed what you can find under layers of old paint, you'd have a chance to eliminate any hidden problems