View Full Version : Drop spindles and steering arm fun...
BBC71Nova
11-11-2012, 10:24 PM
Today I managed to get the front suspension, brakes and steering mostly mocked up. Here is the rundown before I get into the problem.
-Speedtech UCA/LCA
-Ridetech tall dropped spindle
-OE steering arms and draglink
-Moog pitman arm and idler arm
-Lee 600 box
-Wilwood 12" Dynalite kit
-VWW V40 17" X 8" 4 7/8" BS, 235/45-17 tire
So problem #1 is the steering arm is entirely too close to the rim/tire as seen below. Too close to even get a tie-rod on. Thoughts? Ideas?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/BBC71Nova/NovaProject/steeringArmClearance.jpg
I was sorta kinda planning on switching to the Ridetech steering arms anyway via the Tru Turn kit. I think maybe the steering arms are different enough to correct this clearance issue?
However... I'm not sure the Tru Turn drag link attachment will clear the headers. I believe the driver's side will clear based on this pic.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/BBC71Nova/NovaProject/draglinkDrivers.jpg
The passenger's side I don't think so...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/BBC71Nova/NovaProject/draglinkPass.jpg
Anybody got any specs on the Tru Turn that might help me confirm if it will clear? I'm not sure I could bring myself to cut up that tube on these Lemons headers...
Thanks!
BBC71Nova
11-12-2012, 02:57 PM
I slept on it last night and came up with the following...
Space the steering arm out away from the spindle. About 3/16" would yield me a total of 1/4" clearance which is probably enough. If the tie-rod still doesn't fit I could swap to a rod end style, e.g. Baer Tracker style end which I think will yield more clearance.
If I do the bump steer kit then I wouldn't need to worry about the TruTurn center link or the potential header clearance issue. I like the TruTurn setup better though.
I also think I have the longest steering arms available. May try the shorter version and see what that does.
Smoker03
11-12-2012, 03:48 PM
The short z28 arms will yield you some, but probably not enough. The max backspacing is usually 4.5" with 17's and short z28 arms using the ridetech spindle. The bumpsteer kit will be tough to get on since the bolt hangs down further than a stock tie rod. I would seriously look at the Tru turn as that will solve your issues. You may come close on the headers as it seems most of the fitmet was done with LS motors. Another option is to use a stock spindle and do the Guldstrand mod. Below is a pic with ridetech spindles a 17x8 with z28 arms and 4.5" backspacing and the baer tracker kit.
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/Smoker03A/photo5.jpg
Blake Foster
11-12-2012, 09:24 PM
I don't want to bust any balls, but have you ever checked your bump steer? cuz with the steering arms that low it will be REALLY bad, i am only trying to point this out not bash your set up. if anything you want to raise the tie rod end not lower it. another thing to consider is the fact that the stud is below the rim and "IF" you were to get a flat the stud woudl drag before the rim and you could lose all or some of your sbility to even steer the car, just something to consider.
BBC71Nova
11-12-2012, 10:18 PM
I think I ran across the picture or one very similar over on PT. Based on what I had read, and Blake seems to confirm here, I don't expect to really need to drop the tie rod mount much at all, if any. My primary motivation for looking at the bump steer kit is the size difference between a traditional tie-rod end and a heim. I wished I had a bump steer gauge so I could try some things out.
I've got to call Ridetech back tomorrow and speak to the R&D guy. Hopefully he can help me determine if the TruTurn will work without major surgery.
I'm also hoping to better understand the geometry differences between my Speedtech control arms and their Strongarms. Specifically the built in negative camber. It's looking like I'll have quite the stack of shims otherwise. I think the Strongarm balljoint mount angle may by better suited for my ride height. The high clearance Speedtech arm would help with that too though I think.
WILWAXU
11-13-2012, 05:44 AM
Yup, I had to use spacers when I put the ZR1's on my Nova. Ace Hardware near me had a great selection. Used a stack of washers to get the right thickness.
Smoker03
11-13-2012, 04:21 PM
I don't want to bust any balls, but have you ever checked your bump steer? cuz with the steering arms that low it will be REALLY bad, i am only trying to point this out not bash your set up. if anything you want to raise the tie rod end not lower it. another thing to consider is the fact that the stud is below the rim and "IF" you were to get a flat the stud woudl drag before the rim and you could lose all or some of your sbility to even steer the car, just something to consider.
Thats the main reason the car has a stock outter tierod on it now. It just hung way to low. Waiting on funds for the truturn.
Blake Foster
11-13-2012, 08:50 PM
Thats the main reason the car has a stock outter tierod on it now. It just hung way to low. Waiting on funds for the truturn.
good to see you are gong to improve it :thumbsup:
Vince@Meanstreets
11-16-2012, 02:19 AM
Based on the pictures you posted they will not clear the truturn system.
darren@ridetech
11-16-2012, 08:52 AM
The TruTurn will definitly cure your wheel clearance issue, it will also correct the bumpsteer, but does look like it will be tight w/ the headers. If you decide to try the TruTurn and it will not clear you headers, I'll take it back. Just try not to beat it up too bad.... :)
David Pozzi
11-18-2012, 05:40 PM
You can help header clearence by using a 1967 Camaro idler arm, its around 1/4" to 3/8" longer & will push the center link forward. Use the long pitman arm on the drivers side. Rick's Camaros has the idler, or check Rare Parts.
BBC71Nova
11-18-2012, 10:03 PM
Thanks David. I spent a lot of time on your site and other forums studying the different lengths of pitman/idler arms prior to ordering up the Moogs. I ended up with the longest of both that I think I could get without going to the Rare Parts brand. I just couldn't see the cost difference being worth the small length difference. I went with the 6582 pitman and 6099 idler. I had no luck locating the 6093 idler.
I hope to get time to mock up something to check tru turn clearance after the holiday. If it were just a hair off the I might would try the longer idler arm. I'm thinking it won't be close though. I like what you guys did in this area on the OLC. Since it doesnt bolt onto the OE drag link that saves 1/2".
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