LS3 first time start up

[jlwdvm]

One of these days I will be ready to fire up my Texas Speed LS3 for the first time. I'm finishing up wiring, plumbing is done, and I will have to add fluids. What is involved with firing up an LS for the first time? I was thinking about making a pre-luber to run some oil through the system since the motor has been setting for about 2 years. Any thoughts?

[Vega$69]

Start-up and Break-in Procedures
Safety first, if the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the park brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear.
Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.
1. This engine assembly needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate
motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. These crate engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard
GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may
be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM
Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil before starting. Install an oil pressure gauge (the existing oil pressure sensor location at the
upper rear of the engine may be used) and disconnect the engine control system (removing power from the engine control module
is generally recommended, but check your engine control system information for additional details). Note: Disconnecting only ignition
or fuel injector connectors is not recommended – make sure the control system will not provide ignition or fuel to the engine.
Removal of the spark plugs will allow the engine to spin faster and build oil pressure faster.
3. Once the engine control system has been disconnected, crank the engine using the starter for 10 seconds and check for oil pressure.
If no pressure is indicated, wait 30 seconds and crank again for 10 seconds.
4. Repeat this process until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge.
5. Reconnect the engine control system. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. If no unusual noises are noted, run the
engine at approximately 1000 RPM until normal operating temperature is reached.
6. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water
temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or
sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF48 AC Delco oil filter.
Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine
speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly

[cspecken]

I am also getting to that point of firing my Texas Spped ls3 for the first time in the next couple of weeks. Started doing some research on the same topic. I am really concerned about priming the engine before turning over.

Some folks have suggested the following:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-t40/reviews/

While other have suggested an accusump.

Not sure which route I will take.

[dhutton]

I use my lift to raise the back end of the car a couple of feet. This allows the pump to get oil and it primes quickly.

Don

[Vega$69]

Disconnect ECM. Crank until pressure comes up on gauge. Connect ECM. Cycle key to bring fuel pressure up. Purge air from fuel rails. Hit the key and start the engine. Check for leaks.

[jlwdvm]

I have an Accusump in the car, but I'm not sure it could be pre-charged to allow one to pre-lube an engine that hasn't subjected the accusump to engine oil pressure. There are several guys on you tube that have made pre-lubers out of PCV, etc and access the motors oil system via the plug at the drivers front corner of the block. I'm contemplating getting a 5 gallon air tank from Harbor Freight and making a pressurized oiler out of it. I think it could be done for less than $50 and would be less hassel than making one out of PCV.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/5-gallon-portable-air-tank-65594.html

[Vega$69]

Why does everybody ignore the GM Performance recommended procedure?

I have done a built LS7, 2 LS3 GM crates, an LS2, an LS1 swaps.

Pulled the fuse to the ecm. Cranked until pressure on the gauge and fired the motors.

Just saying imho you guys are overthinking this.

[jlwdvm]

We might be, but you can't be too careful can you? I would rather spend $50-75 now and avoid problems with a $13K engine later. I know the engine was assembled with lube by a professional, but it has been sitting for almost 2 years while I got the rest of the car figured out. I pulled the pan to install a baffle and there was lube in it that had dripped out of its original location. I might call Texas Speed and see what they think too. Thanks for your advice!

[Vega$69]

We might be, but you can't be too careful can you? I would rather spend $50-75 now and avoid problems with a $13K engine later. I know the engine was assembled with lube by a professional, but it has been sitting for almost 2 years while I got the rest of the car figured out. I pulled the pan to install a baffle and there was lube in it that had dripped out of its original location. I might call Texas Speed and see what they think too. Thanks for your advice!

I use this Valvetrain Spary Lube as well on the engines I build. Great stuff. I would pull the rocker covers and spray the valve train. Rotate the engine 180* and spray again.

57242

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-106?seid=srese1&gclid=CPao3Iex2coCFRSIfgodTnUEwQ

[dhutton]

Why does everybody ignore the GM Performance recommended procedure?

I have done a built LS7, 2 LS3 GM crates, an LS2, an LS1 swaps.

Pulled the fuse to the ecm. Cranked until pressure on the gauge and fired the motors.

Just saying imho you guys are overthinking this.

Apparently you've never had a problem getting one to prime. It does happen and raising the rear of the car will get it to prime very quickly instead of cranking for extended periods.

Don

[rallystyle]

pull the oil pressure sensor use a funnel and poor some oil in the motor that way. i will fill the filter and some of the galleys with oil. turn it over with no plugs and no fuel. you will have pressure fast.

[jlwdvm]

Interesting. It would build pressure faster than just doing GM's recommendation, but it wouldn't get any oil into the valve train....correct?

[79 Camaro]

Couple of other things.

1. The cool thing about the fuel injected LS engines is if everything is hooked correctly as soon as it has fuel pressure to the injectors it will fire up and run. No messing with timing and such. I like to have the car on jack stands so you can run it slowly thru gears off the ground for the first time.

2. As it warms up check for coolant flow. Sometimes you need to open up the coolant crossover to let some trapped air out.

3. If this is a drive by cable and you have a bigger cam you might have to open up throttle blade a bit to get it to idle.

I've done a half a dozen new LS start-ups. Just primed with the starter with the power to the computer off. Never had a lick of trouble.

Good luck.

[jlwdvm]

I was able to make a pressurized oil primer out of a 5 gallon Harbor Freight air tank, a 3/8 valve, a few fittings, 2 10AN oil line fittings i will be using for oil cooler lines, a fitting for the front side oil galley, and a mechanical oil pressure gauge tapped into the oil cross over above the filter. I also used a 4' piece of clear 3/4" rubber hose to get the oil from the tank to the motor (so I know when the tank is empty). I screwed the AN fittings into the hose and clamped them. Since I already had the AN fittings (that I will be using later) and a few other odds and ends, I spent a little over $30. As far as I can tell, the pressurized oil will enter the block and travel through the filter before moving through the rest of the oil system.

I got several gallons of distilled water to fill the rad. I have 10 gallons of 93 in the fuel tank. I also hooked up the battery and made sure the electrical system didn't start to burn up (the whole car was wired from scratch with an AAW Power Plus 20 system)! I was checking a few areas for 12 volts and turned the key a little too far and the starter turned over for a millasecond! The car might run this weekend after a 2 year install!

[cspecken]

Please post some pictures of the setup you have created, how it is hooked up and let us know how it works out. I am in the same stage as you.

Thanks in advance

[badazz81z28]

Please post some pictures of the setup you have created, how it is hooked up and let us know how it works out. I am in the same stage as you.

Thanks in advance



I made a pre-luber out of a $8 bug sprayer with some AN fittings. Total cost was about $20 and I even sold it on PT.com after I used it.

Worked great.

post # 3

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1640877-oil-priming.html

[Vega$69]

You mention you have distilled water in the radiator. You should also have about 30% coolant for pump lubrication and corrosion resistance.

[jlwdvm]

The car is going to see a lot of track time, so I will be adding a bottle of Joe Gibbs cooling system additive.

[79 Camaro]

That's one of the coolest things about the first start on a LS. Turn the key, wait for the fuel pump to run and then shut off, then turn all the way to crank and it starts and runs.

[jlwdvm]

I have a problem...check this out: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=52255

[jlwdvm]

I hooked up the pressurized oil tank with 7 qts of Joe Gibbs break in it that had been warming up over a register in my house all day. It is plumbed into the oil galley on the front drivers side of the block. I pressurized it to 70psi and opened the valve. I had taken off the passenger side valve cover to watch for oil. I got oil to some out of 1 push rod hole before the oil ran out. I think there is a lot of oil going backwards into the pump and then straight into the oil pan. Any ideas?

[XLexusTech]

Found lots of good thoughts on this thread

Thank you

[jlwdvm]

I talked to the Texas Speed tech line today. They said it is normal for oil to go backwards through the oil pump and into the pan when entering through the oil galley in my location. I asked if I was worried about nothing. He said the assembly lube they use should provide plenty of protection during start up even though the motor has been sitting almost 2 years. He gave me an example of a guy that had purchased one of their turn-key motors and had returned it because of failure 5 minutes after start up. When they opened it up upon arrival they found the inside of the motor was DRY! The owner didn't add any oil and the motor ran for 5 minutes before bearing failure! He recommended disabling the computer and fuel pump and turning the motor over until oil pressure climbs.

[Vega$69]

He recommended disabling the computer and fuel pump and turning the motor over until oil pressure climbs.

Sound familiar?

[jlwdvm]

That's what I thought:)