Structural Foam in Rockers

[BThibodeaux]

I am considering using Fusor Terocore Structural Foam in the rockers and some other areas of my 69 conv. Camaro. to help stiffen things up. Has anyone done this? Any feedback on the results, or thoughts about this idea are appreciated. I am also wondering how many tubes it would take to do one rocker. This stuff ain't cheap.

Here is the link:
http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1204#1908



Thanks

[Blown353]

Some info here, I've worked with it before. Great stuff if the surfaces are prepped and it is used properly.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13393&highlight=structural+foam

[TA219]

As much as i hate it... doesnt water drain down the rockers? If so then you may have water build up if it cant find some other place to escape

edit: blown353 confirms this in the previous link

[ProTouring442]

I don’t think water normally finds its way into the rockers. The cowl should drain in front of the rockers (if I remember correctly). Also, the Fusor information says the stuff will bond despite an oily surface, so you shouldn’t need to do anything crazy to clean them out. It’s definitely something to think about. Maybe even on the frame of my 442, though I bet that would be VERY pricey! :wow:

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

[BThibodeaux]

Some info here, I've worked with it before. Great stuff if the surfaces are prepped and it is used properly.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13393&highlight=structural+foam

Great info. Much appreciated!

[Blown353]

Also, the Fusor information says the stuff will bond despite an oily surface, so you shouldn’t need to do anything crazy to clean them out.

There is a very noticeable difference in adhesion in my experience if it's applied to a poorly prepped surface. The final result will be stronger if it has strong adhesion to the metal, and as long as it's stuck that minimizes the chances for moisture to get between the foam and metal. Any prep is better than none at all. For a rocker panel I would probably open up one end and drag a circular wire brush through to knock off any loose crud followed by a solvent spray. For a frame or body, money no object best bet would be to hot tank/acid dip/etc clean it, e-coat it, then immediately do the foaming on the fresh e-coat.

[BThibodeaux]

There is a very noticeable difference in adhesion in my experience if it's applied to a poorly prepped surface. The final result will be stronger if it has strong adhesion to the metal, and as long as it's stuck that minimizes the chances for moisture to get between the foam and metal. Any prep is better than none at all. For a rocker panel I would probably open up one end and drag a circular wire brush through to knock off any loose crud followed by a solvent spray. For a frame or body, money no object best bet would be to hot tank/acid dip/etc clean it, e-coat it, then immediately do the foaming on the fresh e-coat.

Well I am working with a new Dynacorn body shell, so I am thinking I should let the body guys do their thing (since this may involve breaking loose some sheetmetal and re-attaching properly given the sh*ty alignment of one of the quarers) and then shooting atomized lacquer thinner through the rockers/a-pillars/b-pillars/rear frame rails/other target areas before injecting the foam. This is probably the best cleaning I can hope to achieve given the restricted access to these areas. Good enough? No acid dips or hot tanks available in my area as far as I am aware. Thanks.

[Blown353]

Since you're working with a brand new body that is an ideal setup. Just solvent rinse (if possible) and shoot the foam in. Just remember to leave some escape holes for the stuff. It doesn't expand much but it needs somewhere safe to go.