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- - 383 6spd 80Z Camaro EFI (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12374)

Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3506326, member: 12782

Happy with the spoiler now. Check.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgnebj6wb.jpg
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Ordered some hardware from boltdepot.com to rebuild my hinges. They have a TON of stuff. And I'm actually going to order some 3/8 brass washers and drill them to 1/2 because these 1/2 ones are huuuuge.

So, I like the way the hinges work now. I drilled all the 3/8 holes in the hinges to 1/2 and used a 1/2" shoulder bolt with a 3/8 stud. Plan is to blast and powdercoat the hinges, assemble, and tack the nut to the bolt when done. Maybe threadlocker would be better though. I haven't decided yet.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psu1jkmddn.jpg
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Quote:

Originally Posted by woody80z28, post: 3510464, member: 12782

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I posted in BS about an illustration I did with some 20" ZL1 wheels. Totally loving the concave face and the blacked out look. Looks pissed off. NASTY! But I was a little worried that 20" wheels would just look too big.

So I had a friend come over and I tried the stock SS 20s...

Nope!

Too big.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbgurve7l.jpg
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post

Doing great work, Woody. I'm dreading the body work once I get there. That's part of why I'm ignoring it for now. I will have to go through everything you are, too. I won't be changing to a fiberglass nose though. I'd be too afraid of damaging it on something minor.

I don't think anything larger than an 18 fits these cars well. You have to go so thin on the sidewall to keep the car low. Plus you have to deal with flattened arches of the wheel wells. Birds can get away with a 19 and maybe a 20 but I still think 18s are the best balance of rim and tire.

Keep it up!

Wow...I am way behind in updating this thread.

Quote:

I saw Fesler just released a flush mount glass kit for 70-74 with a the rear in the works for 75-81 and it got me all excited! Then I looked at the price and decided to see what other options there are... haha

This is a roll of T-trim that I used on my Beretta. It's a Dodge Dakota spec that is used as a universal. I'm going to check to see if there is something similar available that is slightly wider than 1/2". To set it up like the first picture I will have to weld additional metal to 3 of the 4 dimensions. To set it up like the second pic I may be able to use a 3/4 or something and have it look pretty good.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7zm6eayy.jpg
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I'm pretty damn sick of body work though. And I do need to spray my subframe and inner fenders, and probably reshoot the firewall. So I dropped the engine in to do some final mockup.

Going to gusset the rear LCA mounting ears (since stock LCA brace doesn't fit with headers) and modify the G-braces to fit under the cowl instead of on top. Also hoping there is enough floor clearance to cut off the 3-bolt flanges and replace them with V-band clamps (did my whole truck exhaust with V-bands and love it).

I wanted to get all the EFI wiring harness stuff finalized, too. I'm adjusting wire length for a cleaner fit and I'll need at least one more hole in the firewall and a different disconnect for the distributor. Mounted my ignition coil on stand offs and really like the look. Also mounted the type-2 PS pump with my bracket and pulley from Speedway. Seems like pretty good stuff.

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Cardboard header gaskets to keep from chewing up the alum heads. haha
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psywgzdbts.jpg

First time with this engine in the car and the pan is pretty damn low.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psav28cz0z.jpg

This pic exaggerates it, but the pan looks to be about the lowest point for ground clearance. So that's not good. I did some research and found out it's a Summit pan with a 8.25 depth. So I'll be fine to cut it up and raise the sump an inch. Probably take me from 7qts to 5.5 or 6. I'll figure out the math.
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Fabbed a cowl brace for the g-braces. I moved the g-braces under the cowl to gain some hood clearance, new hood is tight. I used some 3/4 x 1-1/2" bar stock as nuts and welded them to a thick wall gas pipe. Button head bolts keep hood clearance maxed out. I already have 1/8" plate welded under the cowl for some extra strength. Got some big washers I'm going to weld to the fenders too- there needs to be spacers for the g-brace mounts anyway.

I also drilled holes in the tunnel for wiring. Going to weld the stock wiring hole in the firewall shut. Decided after mocking stuff up that one wiring hole looks out of place with everything else being so clean.

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Picked up some more parts on Black Friday sales...mainly DSE lower arms, QuickTime scatter shield and a Wilwood 7/8 master.

Fabbed a bracket and ran the throttle cable. First bracket didn't line up well so I offset it. Angle iron looks good when you clean it up! Going in the powdercoat pile.
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The SFI bell is a big heavy SOB. I put it in to make sure my planned wiring routes would still be ok. Looks like it will.
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DSE arms are like jewelry. Be a shame when they're all full of road grime. haha (Stockers are for sale in the swap meet section, with delrin bushings). What I really wanted was the added caster.
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Plumbing in a puke tank to eliminate the PCV. At 11:1, I don't need oil reducing the effective octane of the fuel. Area was tight, so I'm doing a pair of 90s looping forward to clear the MSD coil and the g-brace.
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Assembled the PTFE lines for the power steering with the S10 TypeII pump.
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Also think I've decided on a fuel line solution. Regulator up front for accessibility with crossovers front and rear to minimize any pressure spikes from injectors firing (especially in MPFI batch mode). The regulator being so close to the rails should also help with that. Routing the lines far away from the headers should minimize any problems with heat soak. Have a couple fittings in the mail to finalize the plumbing, but this should be it:

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Working on a project I started because of the aero thread on p-t. I've always wanted to smooth the fender vents, but they're pot metal. So I'm going to cut up the stock vent to use as a trim ring and fab the actual scoop out of the sheet metal. It's also going to quadruple the area for underhood air to exit (theoretically reducing drag and aiding in cooling).
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss7cnkr2v.jpg
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Made a date with my body guy to get this damn thing painted! And he's running behind schedule...so I'll post these for now. But it's in queue. I have the body work done to basically the best of my ability and he's going to finish everything up perfect and spray it. (I did my Beretta last year and a couple spots that I thought were perfect showed slight flaws a few months after fresh paint).

I really like how the fender vents came out. It was difficult to get a good decreasing radius bend that was smooth. My old landlord has an English wheel that I used and that's pretty tedious, but it worked ok.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh7bvbluf.jpg
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I also got my rear bumper project done. It's something I've thought about for quite a while. It has always driven me nuts that the bottom of the rear bumper isn't on the same plane as the bottom of the quarter. I photoshopped it to match and it looks so much better. So I cut up the stock one to try it out and fit a basic rear diffuser idea to match the aero package I'm going to do in a year or two.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psqm5owikv.jpg

I was happy with the results, so I bought a Glasstek rear bumper and cut it up. I used the car as my jig and some ABS sheet as a backer to slop some kitty hair on it and make it one piece again. I also made some studded steel plates to eliminate the metal "straps" for the urethane bumper ends and duraglassed them in. Then I took it off the car, removed the self tappers and peeled the ABS off and hit it with fiberglass cloth and resin to give it some strength.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psz0cru5cm.jpg
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I really like the "fatass" look. I think it helps with the really short and wide back end. I also like how the metal strap delete cleans it up. I got a 12" LED bar that will serve as the reverse lights right above the license plate and it can tint the whole taillight lens smoke red which will work with my "amber delete" tail idea. I also welded a much better mount for my kill switch than the one I cobbed when I was 20. haha. I'm going to make a license plate holder/trim piece out of ABS that looks much better when the plate is off and the switch is exposed.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskx9mwb0t.jpg

Good to see some love for the later 2nd gen cars.

Looking good, Woody! I hope it doesn't spend forever in paint jail once it goes in.

Yeah, all the work looks great. I'd hate to see it caught up in paint jail too. Love watching this build, keep up the great work!! Looking forward to more progress pics...