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Lizard skin application...
Easy way to remember is that it is black and white.
Black container is the sound control, the white container is the ceramic temp control. Both products spray out about the same color. The black is sprayed first. :flag2: |
UPOL Raptor liner application in the trunk area...
Mark another thing off of the to do list.
I spayed the UPOL Raptor liner in the trunk area. I really like the way it turned out. It should be plenty functional... :popcorn2: http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3493.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3494.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3495.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3500.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3501.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3502.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3503.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3511.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3512.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_3514.jpg :flag2: |
Great preparation for a cool project
If possible, can you PM me the approx. cost of doing the Lizard Skin. Working on my planned build and doing a cost estimation before starting and would like to plug in numbers for doing the Lizard Skin like you did. I talked with the paint manager of the series "Wrecks to Riches" about the product and he was very enthusiastic about the product. Said that it worked better for them (and faster) than the mat deadener and he'd do it again in a minute. Just want to know a ball park number, not an exact figure. One suggestion that I was told was to also apply the ceramic to the underside of the car where the exhaust pipes were to be routed to further reduce heat transfer through the floor/trunk.
Thanks, Rod |
Moving on with progress...
After much internal debate I decided to spray the jamb area's around the hinges before paint so that I would insure the best possible coverage.
I used the reduced epoxy primer (PPG DP48LF) as a sealer before the color. It's a lot of work and probably overkill but oh well... http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3581.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3584.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3585.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3586.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3589.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3590.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3591.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3592.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3593.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...k/IMG_3594.jpg :flag2: |
Wow, that's a bright yellow. Makes a statement. I have zero body skills so watching this portion intently to learn what I can. Did your door hinges need rebuilding? Curious as most of the '69's I'm looking at have really tired hinges that need rebuilding. Looks to me like you are making good steady progress. Will be tracking this as I really want to see how this all turns out in the end. I love watching builds where the person spends time on the foundation before adding the go fast or bling parts. I think the car ends up being one that's been built to last.
Rod |
Thanks,
We ended up rebuilding the original hinges with kits. :flag2: |
Quote:
That's the way to go imo. I bought repro uppers and could not get the door to align right. Rebuild the stock and it lined up quickly. |
Great work with the prep and paint,looks very good:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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:thankyou:
Thanks, It feels good getting to the stage of the project when things start going on for good... :flag2: |
The car has come a long way, looking great!!! Question; I see you painted the hinges separate from the body ... how do you align the hinges after paint? Did you mark the location with drilled pins?
Just asking cuz I'm right behind you! Michael |
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