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Great updates Dale. :thumbsup: Thanks for continuing to share the great details and photos. I'm sure you're happy to finally see that Magnum up in there and sitting on that crossmember. Not an easy job whatsoever. I'm going to be starting that exact same job in less than 2 weeks, so I appreciate everything you've shared so far.
My "clutch fingers to block measurement" is estimated to be just slightly less than yours, and my bellhousing depth a half inch more than yours, so I'm thinking I'll need to use that ZR1 slave also which has a lower profile than a standard LS slave. I have 2 'quick' questions for you. 1. When you compressed the slave cylinder and measured from the face of it to the mounting face of the transmission, do you remember what measurement you got? 2. You mentioned the ZR1 slave has some special plumbing notes. Is it necessary to use that hard line that comes with it? I was hoping to just plumb a soft line from my MC directly to it. Any plumbing notes you could share would be great. I'm jealous of that jack you used. I need to find me one of those! Thanks again, Chris |
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http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html |
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I did purchase the transmission jack from Harbor Freight like Sieg said. The transmission jack also works great for removing and installing the fuel tank. It’s a nice tool to have around. Here's the answers to your questions: 1. The measurement from the face of the bell to the compressed throwout bearing was 4.280". I ended up with 0.125" clearance between the clutch fingers and the face of the compressed throwout bearing. 2. For the plumbing I ended up using the hard line that came with the GM ZR1 throwout bearing. The plumbing that goes into the throwout bearing has a special O-ring quick disconnect fitting that is retained with a clip. I’m not sure if you can substitute that with a soft line… there are no threads to screw into. On the other end of the hard line there is a black plastic female quick disconnect fitting that accepts a male fitting with an O-ring. I ended up having a custom line made that goes from the clutch master to the female fitting. What I found out is that there are two different style male quick disconnect fittings… one style for 2004 and older throwout bearings, and one style for 2005 and newer. The GM ZR1 throwout bearing (pn: 24237569) takes the 2005 and newer fitting. Of course the first one I bought didn’t fit and that’s how I found out! I ended up buying a custom line from Mcleod Racing. There is a technical sales guy there named “Billy” and he was very helpful. If you talk to him he will set you up. I’m due to receive the line tomorrow (Friday) and I will post up a picture of the set up. Hopefully everything will fit this time around. Here is a shot of the ZR1 throwout bearing with the hard plumbing and quick disconnect fitting http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86e50fcc.jpg Here is a shot of the male quick disconnect fitting that didn't fit. It looks like it would fit but was 0.030" to big! http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9ec994b.jpg I should receive the new line from Mcleod tomorrow. I'll post a picture if I get it. Hopefully this info will save you a little grief. :cheers: |
I bought same coupling a while back from them , just had to get crimped once positioned. Don't know if your running a remote bleeder line but it would save you a ton of headaches if you do. Can find them all over eBay
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It's amazing just how many guys there are with some really awesome builds around the PNW area. Hopefully there will be some local events coming up where I can see these super cool rides and meet some of you locals. It seems like the events are South but if/when we see some good weather I'm hoping there are some posts for local events. I'd really like to see your car and some others before I embark on my LS conversion. |
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I've noticed Lat-g is starting to get a collection of PNWet members, maybe a trackday at The Ridge or Oregon Raceway? Indoor kart event tied in with the PDX Roadster Show, or? |
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Definitely post up your project here... That would be great to meet up with some of the PNW & Vancouver B.C. guys in the near future. We’ll have to work on that one and find a show somewhere mid way :thumbsup: Quote:
A trackday at the Ridge or Oregon Raceway would be great! :thumbsup: :drive: |
Tunnel mods
I ended up raising the tunnel 7/8” in the back and 1-1/4” in the front. After installing the transmission there is about ¾” plus clearance all around between the transmission and the tunnel. This should be enough to prevent rubbing, and allow for some airflow.
First I fabricated the tunnel and added a gusset where the console mounts and where the shifter boot mounts. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pseb77444d.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24ac27b8.jpg Next I secured the weldment to the tunnel with sheet metal screws to hold everything in place for welding. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34cc114c.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0a926bc6.jpg Next I welded the tunnel all around from underneath the car :welder: ...not a fun job! http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7e4ac35.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4da51f10.jpg Next two pics show penetration from the weld underneath. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psaae6ba56.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96e431aa.jpg Then I welded the tunnel all around from inside the car, and cleaned up the welds with a little sanding. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0dbc34b.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps699d604d.jpg Next I painted the tunnel and re-installed the transmission http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48aca742.jpg |
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