Originally Posted by efs69 (Post 598407)

Jay,

I'll trade you for my flanged rear....lol

Looks killer!

Efrain

Originally Posted by JSM (Post 598497)

Thanks Efrain, I am a serious fan of parts porn and find myself spending lots of time just looking at it!
If you currently have a Big Ford "Torino End" on your current housing, I will soon have a bolt on option for you. But shhhhhh, don't tell anyone....

Originally Posted by JSM (Post 598378)

Great question!

The preferred/recommended method would be to first weld on ALL suspension brackets COMPLETELY. TIG being the preferred method but certainly not required.
If patience is practiced during welding (taking time between brackets, and allowing brief cooling periods), you will see VERY little movement of the axle tubes. The minimal axle tube movement you may experience will not effect the axle centerline at all once you install the weld-on flange ends with my/your jig set-up which puts the Ends/Hubs/Axles at perfect centerline with the carrier despite where the actual axle tube is. Although the flange may be slightly "offset" on the axle tube end, that is irrelevant and will not effect anything.
Now, with that said, IF the tubes pulled one way or the other for whatever the reason (or the housing came that way before getting started), you can straighten the tubes by applying a approx. 2" weld on the side you want to "pull up". This you will find will slowly pull the axle tube in the direction you are wanting it to go (of course after you have gotten the results you wanted you will need to grind/sand the weld smooth).
In extreme cases, you may have to quench the 2" weld with water that usually yields twice the results due to the instant cooling effect that springs the metal back at the applied weld.
I have only seen a few housings that required this treatment, and still was not really needed due to the fixturing process that installs the weld-on flange at perfect axle centerline. This mainly applies to a traditional style floater install that utilizes spindle "snouts" that actually install into the axle tubes, as apposed to a big ford end or like mine that simply butt weld to the axle tube end.
Hope all this makes sense.

Jay

Originally Posted by 4mul8ion (Post 598596)

Uh oh. This sounds like trouble for me.
http://alexandranouri.com/wp-content...een-around.jpg

Not sure if I'm going be be able to resist the urge to upgrade.

Kevin

Originally Posted by MoparCar (Post 598616)

Thanks for the info Jay.
Wes

Originally Posted by baddrides (Post 598672)

They look sweet Jay, top quality as expected......

Originally Posted by aany001 (Post 600559)

Wow just stumbled across this thread wow!!! Really slick set up.

Originally Posted by RoadRace Elco (Post 600860)

i currently have a 12 bolt in my 66 elco, with wilwood 6 piston calipers, fixed. i do have pad knock back .

what do i need to do to make this kit work and do you have a complete kit for my application?

thanks

Originally Posted by JSM (Post 600904)

Thanks!



What flange ends do you run on your 12 bolt?