I have had a valve fail on an Eastwood spray can before, they will sen you another free of charge if you call them. Their customer service is top notch.

And good on you for getting the oil pump pickup dialed in correctly now...

I planned on using the Eastwood 2K spray cans for my subframe paint. Within the first 2 minutes of spraying, the can lost all pressure and wouldn't spray anymore. I emailed Eastwood and they gave me a refund for the can ($20/can isn't cheap).

I ended up using VHT Chassis and Roll Bar paint for my subframe.

Daniel

Thanks for the tips guys, sounds like it might be worth giving Eastwood a call! :thankyou:

I've been side tracked a bit lately by lots of spring projects going on around the house but nonetheless I've been able to make a bit of progress on the car.

After painting the engine, I removed all of the masking and bolted up the oil pan for the last time, making sure to torque all of the bolts. Next came the harmonic balancer.There are a ton of options out there for balancers, everything from $50 stock replacements to $400 top-of-the-line ones. Again I went back to the books I've been using for reference, and ended up choosing a 6 3/4" SFI-approved balancer from Professional Products. The SFI approval means that it is tested for up to 10k RPM, which is way overkill for my engine but for the small extra price it was worth it to me for the peace of mind. This is a good, middle of the road balancer that fits in my budget and should work just fine for my needs.
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Fresh ARP crank bolt:
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Gotta paint the oil pan bolts before installing:
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Bottom end buttoned up:
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All was going along just great until I rotated the engine on my stand and noticed what a sh*tty job I had done with my paint job! Note to self, do not paint an engine upside down! I missed a ton of little spots that weren't visible when the engine was upside down but were right in your face when you turned it over:
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So out comes the tape again to mask off the whole engine one more time to put on another coat of paint. Pain in the ass but you gotta do the job right!
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After that was settled, I wanted to measure my cam specs before buttoning up the top end of the motor. I ended up having to take off a rocker and measure the lift off of a pushrod, since having the rockers installed resulted in my lifters collapsing and getting low readings (took me a while to figure that out!)
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I measured duration at 0.050" by measuring the diameter of the balancer and converting that into degrees... not perfect but I thought it would at least get me in the ballpark.
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Here are the approximate specs I came up with:
Intake: 0.480" lift; 223deg duration at 0.050"
Exhaust: 0.512" lift; 233deg duration at 0.050"

Stock cam specs for a ZZ4:
Intake: 0.474" lift; 208deg duration
Exhaust: 0.510" lift; 221deg duration

Based on how close these are, and knowing that my measurements aren't perfect, I'm assuming I have a stock cam. I also couldn't find any markings on the snout of the cam to give me a clue on who made it.

A few questions here for the experienced: I've been going back and forth about putting in a new cam. If I do, would I need to put in new lifters and remeasure for new pushrods? I already have nice 1.5 roller rockers from Crane. I know I would have to take off my oil pan and timing chain cover again but that's not a big deal, it's just time! The engine ran great when I removed it from the car so I'm hesitant to mess with a good thing. Thoughts?

Not a ton of progress in the past few weeks. Had to catch up on a lot of spring projects around the house and had some weekend plans thrown in. I was able to get a couple small things done though.

Valve covers are all painted and I threw them on for a quick mockup... I think I'm going to like the red and satin black look!
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I'm still working on cleaning and masking off parts of the intake manifold... lots of small cracks and crevices to get clean!
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The good thing is my pile of engine parts that need to be cleaned, painted or reinstalled is getting smaller and smaller:
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I'm hoping to get back to weekly updates so stay tuned!

[QUOTE=garage_engineer;669865]Made some good progress the past couple of days disassembling the engine bay. I've got the radiator and A/C condenser out, removed the alternator and the A/C compressor and have started tackling the wiring harness little by little and making sure I'm taking pictures and tagging everything.

Some progress pics:
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OMG i remember installing one of those intakes WAY back on a 85/6 Corvette when they first came out WHAT A NIGHTMARE!!!

It's definitely a pain! A ton of little pieces and fasteners that are hard to get to... sure looks cool all installed though!

Moving right along now and gaining some momentum on the car.

My intake is pretty much painted now. Took a long time to scrape off some old paint, clean in all the nooks and crannies and then tape all the sealing surfaces off. I think it turned out pretty good though:
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I am now working on getting the intake installed along with some new sensors and I have a few questions I was hoping to get some help on:

1. I need some help selecting the correct intake manifold gaskets.
My heads have exhaust crossover holes:
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But my intake only has an exhaust crossover on one side (the other is blocked as part of the casting):
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Finally, my old gaskets have exhaust block off plates but one is missing (perhaps on the same side as the casted-in block off on the intake):
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I don't really need the exhaust crossover... so is there a better way to block this off?


2. My fuel rails are all cleaned up, and I want to put new O-rings in before reassembling them. Any idea where the get the correct ones? I'm thinking I can maybe call Accel and see what they recommend.
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3. This sensor was mounted under the plenum on the top of the intake manifold. I'm assuming it has to do with measuring the intake manifold pressure, but any idea of it's official name? I can't find it on RockAuto.
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4. Lastly, I would like to order a new fuel pressure regulator. Any idea what model this is? It doesn't have any markings on it, but it is adjustable based on the screw on top.
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Thanks for all the help!

Pretty sure that's a factory fuel rail and not an Accel part. The pressure regulator looks to be just a replacement unit for the factory fuel rail.

The silver valve in 3 is the EGR valve. Just block off the manifold with a piece if metal that you bolt down with sealant. You might be able to buy EGR blockoff plates off Ebay or Amazon.

I'm not sure about the intake gasket and cross over block off. I'd just go with the gaskets you took off if they were working. The part number should be pressed into the gasket in the middle.

Intake looks good in black.

Thanks for the tips... I did some more research and ended up ordering a Holley fuel pressure regulator that should drop in.

As far as the EGR, I did a bit more research there too and the computer depends on it quite a bit so I purchased a new one. I also ended up going with the same intake manifold gaskets like you suggested, should work out alright!