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This scale numbers are complete with driver weight, fuel, etc. But once the car gets wrapped, interior sealed, exhaust coated & chassis & sheet metal power coated, the total weight will be around 2840+/-
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Congrats! Looks great. Should be an absolute beast in the corners! I would assume the top speed will be aero-drag limited. Any guess what that speed will be? The big wing on the Viper ACR limits top speed to 177 (with stock 645 HP). It will go faster with more HP but the downforce becomes quite significant. Here is a photo @ 215 (with 1800 HP TT) with the wing in the lowest downforce setting. I saw a later photo of the same car at 210 with the end plates off the wing and stiffer springs and at least the strakes weren't on the ground. The stock rear springs are 1300 #/in.
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THERE! I fixxxxededed it for you..... because it's what you really MEANT / WANTED to say.
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Terrible video quality --- but still is a hoot......
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Hey Pappy ! I geared this car to have a top speed of 160mph for the tracks Greg will run. If we run different tracks that allow higher top speeds, we'll swap 3rd members. Yes, this wing is considered "Moderate drag" which means it eats up 70hp on the straights, at a specific downforce number. I'm at home today. But when I'm in the office next week I'll post the actual specs of downforce & drag. A lot of car folks are misinformed when it comes to aero. They think drag is evil. While we don't want any more drag than possible ... drag is a low priority for road courses. Downforce is King. Downforce gains trumps drag losses by a ton. Indy cars at Indy on the 2.5 mile oval will run trimmed out to only produce .35 cd of drag. But for road courses, will increase aero & downforce to the point the drag cd is around .75. Over double ... but that is what is fastest on a road course. |
The big haired fella in the photo above has two nicknames. Outside of the people at the test, I'll send a free t-shirt to any one that guesses either of the two nicknames.
:) |
Shaggy
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Apex? |
I'm with mfain - definitely Boris (Said)
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Stretch
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His second nickname is TOG ... for the "The Other Greg". His name is Greg Wall, so we call him TOG when Greg Weld is around. :LOL: |
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Love you buddy!! See ya in September?? Actually ---- Can you just give the car to Liz.... XOXO |
TOG be da man with the keyboards and wire clippers and gear and drivetrain set up! Not to mention he's just an all around hoot to hang with. You can't have done this stuff for this long, without gathering some pretty special people...... and trust me -- Sutton has some pretty special people in his repertoire (and a bus appropriately sized) Quote:
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"TM" -- The Missile
Over this weekend we may have landed on a "plan" for the car ---- all based on my current health status.... which is subject to change hourly.
Right now the car is ready to race..... as it was on Thursday when it rolled out of the trailer. I'm going to step back from the driver role, and just be a "team owner" ---- so we can concentrate on the car vs me. THIS IS ALL MY CALL..... Benny Moon - should he decide to accept the mission and burn the tape -- will be the shoe.... Ron running the show.... Randy and TOG will handle wrench and tuning/electrical, and as many useless onlookers as we can gather. NASA Thunderhill - August 4th and 5th will be next up..... Saturday AM will get us some better tire temps -- maybe a tweak here or there on the wing and decoupled 3 link -- and maybe not! Who knows! But the CAR is ready to go boogie. From there ---- I will attempt to complete a single session without wrecking or spinning or setting the f***er on fire..... at Shelby Club event in October @ Thunderhill. If I'm up to it. That way I can go slower and still whip up on the stock Mustangs and whatnot.... and if feeling okay -- I can sneak up and attempt to learn off the couple faster cars (a Maxwell House NASCAR comes to mind that is very well driven)... a little lead follow action would be just the ticket. Then we'll add tracks and dates === but I want to be able to drive it at Somona = Thill = Laguna Seca SOON...... as in, before 2019 |
By the way ------ this thread was started 03-04-2018 and on 06-28-2018 the car was rolling on track...... Think about that for a minute.
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Moon, Weld & Sutton...it’s got a nice ring to it :action-smiley-027:
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Thanks Basher ! When Benny & I raced together ... we called him Benny "The Jet" Moon. He is smoother than glass wishes it could be & cooler than the other side of the pillow. I've seen him run pole qualifying speeds on his warm up lap. The year he raced in the Skip Barber Formula series, he won 4 times to Marco Andretti's one win. In his first year in USAC Ford Focus Midgets, he won their biggest race Turkey Night. When he ran NASCAR Late Models, he won his first race. He's got crazy talent, but he's the most humble, calm, easy to talk to fella you'll ever meet. I've known him since he was 12 years old winning Kart Championships. His family raised him well. We've stayed close long after we raced together. Benny is the first guy I thought about to shake down our new Track-Warrior, because he can tell you within a nanobyte of what the car needs. In a 2009 NASCAR Talent Combine with Joe Gibbs Racing, Roush-Fenway Racing, Penske Racing & a scout for Hendrick Motorsports, Benny smoked every driver there & made it look effortless. If the economy hadn't tanked in 2008/2009 Benny would be a NASCAR Cup driver today. Some things just don't work out. He driver coaches today, in addition to running his Dad's company. Of course he hasn't been in a real race car for about 7-8 years. So it will take a minute for him to get back up to speed. I wish we had more laps last Thursday. The dead battery & oil issues limited our runs. But he loved the car's grip & turn in. Told me it needed a bit less rear grip in the slow corners (which we tuned the Watt's Link for). If this works out where Benny races the Mustang in NASA TTU with me Crew Chiefing ... I may get to 500 wins after all. (I'm currently stuck at 498 personal wins - Not client wins) :) |
kind of only natural the Greg become the team owner with the ability to drive when he wants!! should be fun
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Congrats on the build the result and the outing! :cheers: |
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Congrats to all involved in getting this car on the track. It sounds and looks killer. Good luck on the upcoming "race season"
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Car looks great Greg and Ron. What wheels are you running?
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This particular wheel is GZ3R. There are 4 models I like & recommend for the best balance of strength & weight: GA3/GA3R GW3/GW3R GX3 GZ3/GZ3R * In this 18x13 size these wheels cost under $5k. The basic difference with R model wheels is the cap. Non R wheels come with a regular Forgeline center cap. This works well for all common street hubs & spindles (which are typically 2.78" & smaller). The "R" wheels do not come with caps, typically because the Heavy Duty spindles & hubs they fit over ... Like our Track-Star Spindles/Hubs & Speedway Grand National Floater Hubs which are all 3.06" ... have their own caps that stick through the wheel, as you can see in this photo here. https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachm...0&d=1530290688 A lot of people think this is an unlimited budget build. But that's not the case at all. If it were an unlimited budget Build, we'd be running carbon fiber Forgeline wheels, as well as titanium & carbon fiber components throughout the car. Plus we'd have more power than our "base" 700HP LS7. Like 850-900HP. But an all out car would be $600-$700k. This is a $195K car with the sequential shift & big Aero options added, before we add in the second set of wheels. That will include the final wrap. |
AND IT'S BAD ASS !!! And and a "missile"......
And you "Corvette racers"...... well yeah -- about that..... LOL I'll take a real race car with race tires - and all the safety - and all the coolness that goes with all that. Not baggin' on Pro showing -- but some guys have moved beyond that. GONE RACIN' |
What material for your driveline are you guys running? What type of U joint? I've seen the solid non greaseable 1350 joint but was curious of it's reliability for a duel purpose car.
You just can't beat the value of what you get for what you paid for this car. The time it took from start to finish is just amazing. If I could afford to do my car again I'd be money ahead to just buy a rolling chassis all set up from Ron and throw my steel body on it and enjoy. I'd still want license plates tho so I could drive it on the street when I know I shouldn't. |
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FACT....... Or you can just buy all the pieces as you can afford them (no different than any other build) but you'll end up with something that works and is superior in so many ways. For me --- the speeds these guys are running in their "street cars"..... yeah -- they're insane. Only time before that doesn't work out so well. I have street cars -- I have a Porsche Turbo S - I've driven lots of "fast" cars.... to me - they're so boring..... compared to when something like this is born and you crawl behind the wheel. For me personally -- it's just a natural progression. |
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I totally agree - and starting with a street(able) car that evolves into a race car isn't much better. I've probably got $30K worth of old "new" parts laying in the corner of my garage - parts that were on the car for some time but gave way to "a better idea" before they were ever used. Anybody need a set of never-driven 18" HRE's with 7 year-old sticker MPSC1s that were relegated to garage roll-arounds? LOL Yeah, Todd I know - my grandkid's grandkids will love it. But Greg and I have an eventual track date I can't miss. Pappy |
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Good question! We run both 1026 DOM & 4130 Chromoly driveshafts. With the sequential "no-lift" shift transmission the DOM absorbs the shock better. We run special Dana Spicer 1350 chromoly U-joints. No zerk to grease, so no weak spots. We have a LOT of clients building Track-Warriors for street & track. The way most clients do it is buy the "Build-Your-Own" kits that start at $12,899 HERE. |
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I will "qualify" my comments about street cars and purpose built track cars.... We all know full well there are compromises in ride quality - ride height - power to weight - tire sizes and type - seating - fire safety - cage quality. I'm not the type to bag on other peoples choices and I know full well that most can't afford to have purpose built cars. But if you can -- get a track only car -- you'll thank yourself!! Make the PT car the one your wife will ride in and not complain.... We all know a race car is far different than a street car, and that street cars are "CAPABLE" of turning very respectable lap times. You throw enough power - and skills.... and set up - and these cars are awesome! But they're not RACE CARS and nobody would want to drive a race car on the street. Even the shocks that are built to race --- aren't built to run on the street.... (without a lot of extra maintenance). Personally I'd take a modern automatic over trying to drive a sequential on the street.... Now - lets just get in to the aero...... this new car is completely closed out and flat and flush underneath..... I know how much the frontend of Old Yeller is lifting down in to T1 at Thunderhill..... I have to gently touch up the brakes to get her to settle a bit before turn-in.... And while I haven't driven TM (The Missile) yet --- but my guess is, she's glued to the ground at the big end of the straight and you probably just need to lift a little to conquer T1....... The difference should be HUGE.... and it's AVERAGE SPEED that creates the lower lap times we need for this car to be competitive. I'd spend $40 or 50 grand plus trying to turn OY in to half the car the new one is..... and it still wouldn't come close! If I didn't have the resources to build something like this ---- then I'd just keep/buy Old Yeller again.... and I'd certainly never complain about having to drive HellFire or JackAss 2.0 etc and track them. But I'd sure hate to repair either of them and keep them looking like the award winning cars they are. That would make racing TM look CHEAP! LOL |
You can buy used race cars pretty cheap. Go through it and make some upgrades and let it rip! Undoubtedly, that's what I'd do if I get the itch. Beat the snot out of it and not give a damn.:D
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I do NOT want my '40 Ford to ride or act anywhere near what these track cars do!!! One is for street driving nirvana...... the other is for TRACK only nirvana. The two are mutually exclusive. I'm no suspension guy --- don't need to be --- Ron Sutton handles all of that --- but danged if I can figure out how STIELOW gets his cars to handle so well -- and yet they're so drivable. They just wouldn't be competitive in NASA TTU which is what this was conceived for. Readers --- remember what I'm attempting to clarify here -------- a pure track only car vs a street car that is more than capable of great times/driving both on track and on the street. I'm just saying that pure track cars are rather evil...... and cars like HellFire - Jackass 2.0 and other well sorted and built "pro touring cars" shouldn't be. The new subframe from SpeedTech or the sub from DSE, The Roadster Shop, etc -- are just sensational for handling and tuning capabilities and if I was building a new car today these parts would be mandatory they're just so good. |
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And yes, i've learned (the hardway lol) that my camaro had to "choose" a path, racing or touring....now i'm saving up for your yellow one, maybe. :thumbsup: |
Some of you may not have realized on our shake down day the car wasn't ready to race or run many laps because the interior tin wasn't sealed & the exhaust wasn't thermal barrier coated.
The cockpit needs to be fully sealed from the engine bay & fuel cell area. We use a 3M Fire Retardant Sealer good up to 2000°. The exhaust runs so close to the transmission, the gear oil would overheat in it if the exhaust was uncoated. So we Jet-Hot coat the inside & outside of the header tubes & exhaust. (Mufflers only on the outside) This knocks down the radiant heat around the transmission & driver by 40-45°. The Mustang comes apart late this week to go to powder coat. In our Track-Warrior cars like Greg's ... the steel floor, firewall & bulkhead/rear deck sheet metal are welded to the chassis ... and get powder coated along with the chassis & cage assembly. When it goes back together for final assembly, Randy Chastain will utilize the 3M Fire Retardant Sealer on every seam under the car, at the firewall & at the rear bulkhead & decklid sheet metal. This prevents C0², smoke, oil, fire, etc from entering into the cockpit. I'm outlining this important step, because many of you already have, or will, modify the sheet metal in your builds & NEED TO KNOW it's critical to seal it & what to use. It's NOT OK to leave any seam unsealed. It's unsafe. The car will go back together later this month & get ready to go run the NASA event at Thunderhill Raceway in Willows California on Aug 4-5. Since the car wasn't built to fit a class, we will run it in the "Unlimited" class of NASA's Time Attack, known as TTU. Since it is an unlimited class, often there are Prototype race cars that run in TTU. https://digbza2f4g9qo.cloudfront.net...170127T222528Z We won't stand a chance against any Prototype race cars, with our Trans Am style 70 Mustang. But if there are no Prototype race cars, we'll have a good shot at running up front. Our driver Benny Moon is super talented, but hasn't been in a real race car is many years, so he'll need to shake off the rust as we work up to speed. I don't know how fast we'll get this first weekend. I plan to do only basic tuning for balance. But it would be fun to have a pool of folks betting on Benny's best lap of the weekend. We have a betting pool ... similar to a football pool. * 100 times between 1:50.0 & 1:59.9 lap time, a tenth of a second apart * Pick one time or as many as your wallet can handle * Closest time wins all the pool money & bragging rights * Only 1 time, Best time of the weekend, counts Pick your time(s) HERE. |
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