Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457636)

So without actually seeing you adjust valves --- I think that is part of the problem -- I'd START with a fresh valve adjustment using the techniques in the video.

This is CRITICAL regardless of hydraulic of solid.... and done wrong -- you'll have valves not seating fully - or valves open when they shouldn't be etc.

The backfires and gas burning in the muffler kinda leads me to think there's a bit of an issue there... Carbs don't backfire... so that is either timing --- or valve adjustment.

You're not going to know about the valves unless you just do it over with the info you've been given. Personally I use a felt tip pen and mark "I" or "E" on the head gasket surface so when I'm rolling 'em around -- I know which valve I'm working on.

Then when I was done with that --- I'd leave it so that I can watch the valve on number 1 both closed --- watching the ROTOR on the distributor -- and roll it till the timing mark is at TDC.... ALL THOSE THINGS SHOULD MATCH UP -- ROTOR on #1 -- valves on #1 closed after the INTAKE opens and comes closed -- and the timing balancer and pointer on TDC.

At that point -- I'd make a felt pen mark on the dist where the rotor is EXACTLY -- and another where the rotor ends up after she clears the cam gear (gives you a good starting point for the re-stab) -- I'd pull the distributor --- work the advance making sure she's free and snappy -- and check that the stop bushing is where it should be and there's no interference with it.... Stab it back in... after checking that the rotor is where it should be (there should be a square peg on one side)... that it seats properly -- and that the CAP looks good etc.

I'd fire it at this point and see if anything has improved -- set your timing ....

THEN I'd mess with the carb.... but not until I KNEW FOR SURE the valves and the timing are good. Carbs are DUMB -- they don't control much except the idle. :cheers:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 457812)

[IMG]http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...-Zg6zdcf-L.jpg

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457826)

I know I'm digging at the little things -- but at this point nothing can be taken for granted.



:thumbsup:

Originally Posted by bdahlg68 (Post 457828)

Man, you are really trying for 10,000 posts aren't you!

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457820)

In this pic -- the distributor is 180* "out"....


Don't know when you took the picture etc --- but just saying....

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457821)

The high idle can also be chased to a vacuum leak.... Have you checked for that? All the ports on the carb plugged -- PCV working correctly? Intake sealed?

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457825)

Okay -- and I see another possible issue.... ASSUMING you're running an MSD box... since I see you've put on a GM weatherpak connector on the distributor.

The Black/Violet wire is negative (-) while the Black/Orange is postive (+). The wires that come out of the MSD are Violet(+) and Green (-). The 2-Pin connectors are designed to only connect one way so the wiring cannot be switched. If for some reason the connectors are changed, be sure the wires are connected with matching polarity. If they are not, the engine may or may not start, but if it does the timing will be inconsistent and it will run rough and not accelerate.

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457826)

I know I'm digging at the little things -- but at this point nothing can be taken for granted.
:thumbsup:

Originally Posted by bdahlg68 (Post 457828)

Man, you are really trying for 10,000 posts aren't you!

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 457829)

Hey -- the Hawks lost -- I've got little else to do now for a few weeks!! :lol: