Lateral-g Forums - 1969 Torino

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 488707)

Read page #8 of the Woodward catalog.....

I have

So how then does one install the splined plug ends into a steering shaft? One of us is reading something different. :headscratch: I think it is you. :action-smiley-027: Of course I always think I'm right until somebody slaps some sense into me. :bitchslap: :bitchslap: It is a good topic for discussion.:cheers:

http://woodwardsteering.com/images/s...l%20joints.pdf

Double-splined U-joints:
In all but entry-level classes, the time-honored practice of welding
universal joints directly to the steering tubing is gradually being
phased out. ST201 weld-in splined stubs allow the use of double-splined,
completely removable u-joints. The stubs are solid, and unlike a splined
piece of tubing they cannot be crushed by the set screws. The slight extra
cost of stubs and double-splined joints is almost insignificant compared
with the time and effort which must otherwise be invested in welding
u-joints, removing welded u-joints with a torch or hand grinder, or trying
to modify a steering shaft whose joints have been welded.
U-joints can undergo distortion if they are heat-soaked during a
time-consuming welding process, and excessive heat will draw the temper
of the needle bearings. Weld-in stubs contain no moving parts and
are virtually immune to damage other than spatter. A guide to welding
these parts appears on page 8.

Welding U-joints and Stubs to Steering Shafts
While it has become obvious over many years that universal joints can be welded to shafts with a high degree of reliability, some procedures
are detrimental to the u-joint and must be avoided. Plug or rosette welds on universal joints are virtually guaranteed to shorten the life of the bearings
from both direct heat and the distortion resulting from weld contraction in proximity to the bearing bores. Even if the bearings are removed first,
this distortion will cause enough ovality and misalignment to damage both the bearings and the trunnion journals when reinstalling. In any case,
the cross section of a circumferential weld joint is comfortably larger than that of a tubular steering shaft, and any additional welding in the form of
plugs or rosettes would be entirely superfluous.
In general, any welding procedure which consumes enough time to discolor the ears of the u-joint should be assumed to have drawn the temper
of the bearings. This does not necessarily disqualify the TIG process, but TIG does tend to be fairly slow. To avoid heat-soaking the joint when
TIG welding, use a high-strength, non-cracking filler rod such as 309 stainless and keep the cross-section small. The most practical method is MIG,
as a comfortably large weld can be made in a few seconds. ER80S-D2 wire using C-25 shielding gas will give excellent results for both strength and
appearance.
The obvious disadvantage of any welding is, of course, that once you’ve welded the u-joints they cannot be removed without resorting to a
torch, saw, or angle grinder. A mechanical connection, on the other hand, carries the great convenience of being removable for inspection or replacement.
Welding splined stubs into the steering tube is no more work than welding u-joints directly to it. However, by confining the welding to the
tube, potential heat damage to the u-joint bearings is eliminated. A full-penetration circumferential weld of the stub to the tube will transmit steering
torque as effectively as the tube itself, and is not difficult.
With a weld-in stub, plug or rosette welds can be added if desired. If so,
use two; these should be as directly opposite each other as possible to equalize
the inevitable distortion. The pilot of the splined stub is made a few thousandths
oversize to ensure a tight fit in the expected ID of a .120 wall tube. File the pilot
if necessary until it fits the tube snugly. A heavy driven fit is unnecessary and
will restrain the weld joint. Leave a 1/8” gap at the root of the weld to ensure
penetration. For the circumferential weld, a couple of hot MIG passes (use a rolling
fixture if you can) will get the job done before any significant distortion can set in.
Although a steering shaft is not a high-speed rotating assembly, straightness
is still a practical goal. If you prefer TIG welding, excellent results will be
obtained using 309 stainless steel filler rod as above. However, keep in mind that
TIG is relatively slow; the slower the welding process, the more your finished
job is likely to deviate from straight. Postheat to a faint red and let cool in air
(Note: don’t postheat a universal joint).