Aren't we glad we all agree:grouphug:

I agree that although Woodward sell a weld on U joint using one isn't the best idea. That is why after researching it I bought the weld in splined ends from Woodward.

The completed splined end shaft on mine is light and strong and makes for easy servicing of the U joints in the future....

and of course controversy and a little drama which is what my thread is usually about.:lmao:

The good thing about this forum and anybody's build thread is the chance to exchange ideas, learn from each other and point people to specialists like Woodward.

In this particular case "Knuckles" has added a new element I can use in his build threads replacing Intros which has run it's course. :headspin:

Don't feel bad GW. When I bought my ATL fuel cell I was convinced I could run a Y fitting from both duck foot pickups to my main 10an line to my pump. Of all people, DG found out that was a bad idea and sent me of to ask ATL directly. I guess he knows more about fuel delivery than motor choice.:lmao:

Now DG is free to shop for some race car u joints.

:cheers:

It will be interesting to see how your steering system all works out.

Did you get the Auzzie steering box? It's a faster ratio, but I hear it turns the opposite way around ;)

You just concentrate on trying to get that motor of yours on the dyno and get some practice laps on your home track. :warning:

I hear you have a showdown in your future. :guns:

:cheers:



Well I better take it off the back porch and hide it in the barn before he stops by and trys to nab it.

Rob, you're welcome on the fuel cell help. Would hate to have you be able to use a faulty fuel cell configuration as the reason for being a lap down.

There's only one place that thing belongs... it's called the trash bin. :bitchslap:

Zinger much? :D

Well maybe I'll start with a more detailed picture of my steering shaft.

You can see in the picture the shaft is .750" .120 wall CroMo and the ends are the Woodward 20 spline style. This style is pretty cool with a square edge on the top of each spline. This prevents the spines from splaying wach other apart. You can see in the photo below the difference between the Woodward spline and the std automotive 36 spline that is found on my rack and that I ordered for the end of my Flaming River colomn.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa6642d18.jpg

The other day I assembled my rotors. I still have to safety wire them but that is another post. Here is a picture of one of the rears. The hat is cast and acts as a brake drum for the parking brake. Yes full race junkys I plan on running a parking brake. The rotors are 14x1.10" e-coated and slotted but not drilled.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psef49e4af.jpg

Today I removed the hubs from my Speedway floater and stared installing the brakes. This is just a test fit install.

The powdercoaters coated the flanges for the brake backing plates. I started by chasing the threads with a 3/8 24 tap to remove the PC
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps374cc7c2.jpg

Next I took a flat file to the mounting face. I would prefer this to have no coating so the backing plate would mate to a machined metal surface. For not I just spot faced it to ensure it was flat. I may strip it entirely. More on that later.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa80db8bd.jpg

On with the backing plate and parking brake assembly.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps363cb610.jpg

Now here is what I'm talking about with the powdercoat. The Wilwood caliper bracket mounts to the back of the backing plate. When you assemble it you use shims to center it on the caliper. They say to start with two .11 shims. You can see them in the picture.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7f9262c3.jpg

Then there is another spacer between the bracket and backing plate.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps00b2e47c.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9e30ea54.jpg

The radial mounted caliper bolts onto the bracket. You adjust the centering of the caliper with the shims. I would guess the powdercoat is already spacing the caliper .11" or more outboard so although I stared with 2 shims as Wilwood recommends I really only have 1 shim of spacing. If I need to move the caliper inboard more I'd need more shims than normal. If I need more than three I'm going to clean off the mounting face. The Powdercoat is like a hard gasket of sorts and the force on the bracket isn't going to work on the "gasket" so I'm not overly concerned about it but I may be cleaning it all off the mounting face.

Neat.

Rob puts in all that time and that's all you got? :disgusted:

Good to see your getting some work done on your car Rob. Chassis looks good.
I haven't been on here much lately with my project, Torino 10, since I have been out of work since December. Been keeping busy doing projects for others so there is no time for my stuff.

LOL the car looks great, Have always said that.

Look great Rob. what Wilwood kit did you end up going with?

BadMatt you are a Torino contributor and parts supplier. I'll take "neat" works for me. :D

I was luck enough to have Mike H and Tarrant from Wilwood work with me on putting together a kit. Up front are W6A 6 piston calipers with the dynamic floating style rotors and out back is a kit they sell for the Speedway floater rear end 4 piston Billet Narrow superlite calipers with the integrated crossover. Rotors front and rear are 14" the fronts are 1.25" rear 1.1". On Mikes advice since I plan on flogging it hard the rotors are slotted but not drilled.

I'm going to post some more details on building the rotors and the brakes overall when the wheels arrive.:ups:

Yea I saw your post on the fathers day gift. I hope you get things squared away soon and can get back to work on your project. The world needs a V10 Torino. :thumbsup:

I sat and did nothing on mine from 09 until last year because I was feeling a little wonky about the future.