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-   -   1969 Torino (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10645)

FETorino 06-24-2013 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67zo6Camaro (Post 489131)
holly cow. were did all these extra pictures come from. I take back my prior comment. Nice. Keep going.

That's all for now. :unibrow:

I accomplished what I needed to do tonight and checked my caliper alignment. All the parts are back in the box and I'm the NET. I have 4 rotors to safety wire this week after work.

As a note on the caliper alignment. Wilwood has a good PDF set of instructions but I have heard of two instances where the stud in the radial bracket loosened up during use. I'm pretty sure I know why this would happen.:headscratch:

The Radial bracket is AL and the studs are threaded into it probably with locktite. Per the instructions Wilwood has you bolt the calipers on to check the pad depth measurement. The only nuts they give you are the self locking pinch style 12pts. Once you use these to torque down the caliper and then remove them to add or subtract shims the nut is working against the locktite on the stud.

How many times have you used a jamnut to remove a stud. Think about it it is the same thing just not as obvious. The pinch nut may not have enough grip to remove the stud like a jamnut but it is trying and in some cases probably loosens the locktites grip on the stud enough to start the probalem.

JMHO

:cheers:

intocarss 06-24-2013 10:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Oh Yeah

fleet 06-24-2013 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intocarss (Post 489152)
Oh Yeah

She's a cow...



:hello:

Rick D 06-25-2013 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compos mentis (Post 489161)
She's a cow...


Wow i would like to see your reaction when you see her come up your driveway with parts? :poke: I know I would be ordering parts everyday :ups: :ups: :ups:

fleet 06-25-2013 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 489167)
Wow i would like to see your reaction when you see her come up your driveway with parts? :poke: I know I would be ordering parts everyday :ups: :ups: :ups:

:D

Rick,

You stepped into the middle of a contest. Most of my posts directed at Dr. Jer E. Dawhg are designed to continue to 'take out' his screen(s). A keyboard would be a bonus. I'm sure the young lady in the picture has a very nice personality.

Actually, I'm not sure of that. :lol:

Sieg 06-25-2013 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compos mentis (Post 489161)
She's a cow...

:hello:

.....A dairy cow. They bring the goods every day Skipper. :hello:

fleet 06-25-2013 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 489177)
.....A dairy cow. They bring the goods every day Skipper. :hello:

:D


I'd like this one to pull up in front of our place...no matter who was drivin it.

BTW-Enjoying your updates Rob. :thumbsup:


http://image.trucktrend.com/f/348921...on-Hot-Rod.jpg

http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...-side-view.jpg

http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...r-1024x640.jpg

intocarss 06-25-2013 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compos mentis (Post 489161)
She's a cow...



:hello:

And I like utters

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 489167)
Wow i would like to see your reaction when you see her come up your driveway with parts? :poke: I know I would be ordering parts everyday :ups: :ups: :ups:

Just the thought of her handling my package all day

INTMD8 06-25-2013 09:06 AM

Nice pics!

GMR floater is of similar construction except it has a sleeve that goes between the inner bearing races that limits preload so you just torque the outer nut.

They also have a C6 hub version as you mentioned.

FETorino 06-25-2013 06:39 PM

Using proper Chevy tools
 
So last weekend I needed to remove my front hubs from the C6 spindles on the front of my chassis. I'm doing some upgrades:secret: basically new :censored:s before I finish mounting the brakes and the wheels arrive. Once I'm done I'll post some details since nobody wants text without photos.

When I went to remove the three allen head capscrews that secure the hub it was obvious I needed to unseat the balljoint. You can see in this after removal photo that the capscrew sits behind the balljoint stud and castle nut.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfc9be4ff.jpg

My first thought is I have a pitman arm puller in the toolbox I have used before to remove tierods and pitman arms and drag links and other parts with a taper seat without damage.

None of these those are some other pullers for pulleys and such. :twak:


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps025faaf9.jpg

Here is the little guy I first thought of.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps63586787.jpg

Unfortunately although the throat in this guy is big enough to fit over the bottom of the spindle the sweet looking billet AL steering arm in teh previous picture is in the way.:bur2: :headscratch:

Hm my little FOrd (you guys keep adding a J to Ford so the O is an emphasis reminder for spelling) pitman arm puller is doing me no good on this Bowtie balljoint excursion.

I also have a spreader style which is basically like a turnbuckle that causes the two ends to expand. I forgot to snap a picture and am too lazy to go back out to the garage. Anyway that same billet steering arm is in the way (no straight line between upper and lower balljoint.

I do a google search for C6 balljoint. ALL the Corvette forum guys use pickleforks :omg: :wow: No F:censored:g way I'm going medieval on this stuff :badidea: What a bunch of hacks.

So I shoot an e-mail to someone who works on this stuff all the time to ask what the preferred tool is. There is surely a special Bowtie toll part # for this application. I am rewarded with the correct Chevy part # and rush down to get one. It worked like a charm and unseated the balljint in about 30 seconds.

Just for everyone's future reference here is the Chevy specific tool.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps8093ed09.jpg

Job done, Hubs shipped, on to the next project.:relax: :popcorn2:


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