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I accomplished what I needed to do tonight and checked my caliper alignment. All the parts are back in the box and I'm the NET. I have 4 rotors to safety wire this week after work. As a note on the caliper alignment. Wilwood has a good PDF set of instructions but I have heard of two instances where the stud in the radial bracket loosened up during use. I'm pretty sure I know why this would happen.:headscratch: The Radial bracket is AL and the studs are threaded into it probably with locktite. Per the instructions Wilwood has you bolt the calipers on to check the pad depth measurement. The only nuts they give you are the self locking pinch style 12pts. Once you use these to torque down the caliper and then remove them to add or subtract shims the nut is working against the locktite on the stud. How many times have you used a jamnut to remove a stud. Think about it it is the same thing just not as obvious. The pinch nut may not have enough grip to remove the stud like a jamnut but it is trying and in some cases probably loosens the locktites grip on the stud enough to start the probalem. JMHO :cheers: |
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Wow i would like to see your reaction when you see her come up your driveway with parts? :poke: I know I would be ordering parts everyday :ups: :ups: :ups: |
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Rick, You stepped into the middle of a contest. Most of my posts directed at Dr. Jer E. Dawhg are designed to continue to 'take out' his screen(s). A keyboard would be a bonus. I'm sure the young lady in the picture has a very nice personality. Actually, I'm not sure of that. :lol: |
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I'd like this one to pull up in front of our place...no matter who was drivin it. BTW-Enjoying your updates Rob. :thumbsup: http://image.trucktrend.com/f/348921...on-Hot-Rod.jpg http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...-side-view.jpg http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...r-1024x640.jpg |
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Nice pics!
GMR floater is of similar construction except it has a sleeve that goes between the inner bearing races that limits preload so you just torque the outer nut. They also have a C6 hub version as you mentioned. |
Using proper Chevy tools
So last weekend I needed to remove my front hubs from the C6 spindles on the front of my chassis. I'm doing some upgrades:secret: basically new :censored:s before I finish mounting the brakes and the wheels arrive. Once I'm done I'll post some details since nobody wants text without photos.
When I went to remove the three allen head capscrews that secure the hub it was obvious I needed to unseat the balljoint. You can see in this after removal photo that the capscrew sits behind the balljoint stud and castle nut. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfc9be4ff.jpg My first thought is I have a pitman arm puller in the toolbox I have used before to remove tierods and pitman arms and drag links and other parts with a taper seat without damage. None of these those are some other pullers for pulleys and such. :twak: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps025faaf9.jpg Here is the little guy I first thought of. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps63586787.jpg Unfortunately although the throat in this guy is big enough to fit over the bottom of the spindle the sweet looking billet AL steering arm in teh previous picture is in the way.:bur2: :headscratch: Hm my little FOrd (you guys keep adding a J to Ford so the O is an emphasis reminder for spelling) pitman arm puller is doing me no good on this Bowtie balljoint excursion. I also have a spreader style which is basically like a turnbuckle that causes the two ends to expand. I forgot to snap a picture and am too lazy to go back out to the garage. Anyway that same billet steering arm is in the way (no straight line between upper and lower balljoint. I do a google search for C6 balljoint. ALL the Corvette forum guys use pickleforks :omg: :wow: No F:censored:g way I'm going medieval on this stuff :badidea: What a bunch of hacks. So I shoot an e-mail to someone who works on this stuff all the time to ask what the preferred tool is. There is surely a special Bowtie toll part # for this application. I am rewarded with the correct Chevy part # and rush down to get one. It worked like a charm and unseated the balljint in about 30 seconds. Just for everyone's future reference here is the Chevy specific tool. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps8093ed09.jpg Job done, Hubs shipped, on to the next project.:relax: :popcorn2: |
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