Nice job. That floor pan was clean enough to eat off of.

Thanks All!


Getting that floor clean was a pain, spent way too much time grinding on it :rolleyes:

Awesome job it came out beautiful. You should be good for the next 50 yrs with that prep work. Glad to see it coming a long.:thumbsup:

Thanks Wayne! Ya work let up a bit have some more time to spend on the car. Its nice to actually be installing parts rather than still taking things apart :lol:

Just been plugging away slowly. Built some more rear shelf close outs.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior043.jpg

Mounted the Morris classic concepts rear 3 point seat belt brackets (very nice system definitely recommended). Part of the closeouts integrated with the MCC brackets as they mount underneath the package tray and the side closeouts I made help sandwich the tray.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior053.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior054.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior055.jpg

They are also covered with Dampflier Pro to keep them from rattling.

Took a slight detour and decided that I wanted to listen to some music so wired up my battery and then my amp, head unit and all 9 speakers (front/rear speaker+tweeter pairs and sub)

Using Screaming Performance's kick panels and closeouts:
http://www.screaminperformance.net/c...ick_panels.htm

Really liking them:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior039.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior047.jpg


And my temporary wiring for some tunes while I keep working (everything is fused don't want to burn things down before I get the car on the road):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior051.jpg

Using Alpine's IDA-x305 for a head unit to control my iTouch (very cool can tranverse my iPod's playlists, artists and genre etc lists). Alpine's PDX-5 to drive all the speakers and 2 sets of Polk Audio's 6-1/2 component speaker systems (MM6501) with their 10" DVC sub (MM1040) for speakers. So far with just a bit of tuning it sounds as good or not better than any car's system I have had. Been listening to it non-stop while working on other stuff.

Definitely the location for the rear dome lights in the sail-panel area is a great place to mount tweeters, as I have the rear tweeters mounted there and they really make the system I think along with the front kick panels.


Put down what I have left of Second Skin Audio's Thermal block product (had used most of it on the roof). Was able to completely cover the firewall, trans tunnel and driver and passenger floor boards (least till where your feet go).
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior049.jpg

I just wish the stuff wasn't so expensive or I would cover the entire floor with it (almost $300 for 4 sheets or 24sq ft). The rest of the floor will get covered with their Heat wave pro (which I had bought before the Thermal Block product came out). May even double up in some areas like the firewall and trans tunnel over the Thermal block with heat wave pro. Then onto the sound absorbing Luxury liner pro. Doesn't look like I can get much more down underneath the gas pedal thou, probably have to skip some areas if I am still going to fit carpet in.

Your making some nice progress, and getting the sticky stuff out of thew way. I'm the oposite plenty of time but no car yet.

Great update Ed. Those are some nice speakers. Polk Audio make some nice stuff.:thumbsup:

Thanks Wayne. Yeah and that sound deadener is sure sticky. I was sitting on some of it and realized if I didn't tape all the edges I probably wouldn't be able to get up soon, that butyl stuff gets everywhere, ruined a pair of sweats and a tee-shirt and started getting it all over the interior. :lol:

Thanks! Yea listened to a bunch of speakers at Fry's and other stores and did bunch of research online they were the best sounding speakers to me, least that I could afford or justify spending that much money on. Very happy so far with how the stereo sounds.

Still plugging away slowly on the electrical, have most of my battery cables made now. Have B+ power up to where the stock battery location is. Test fitted the main dash harness. Got the rear harness in and routed, still have to solder all the rear connections. Waiting for some Packard connectors so I run the DSE wires through the main bulkhead (need 1 male series 59 and they are hard to find only place I could find them was terminal supply co).


Got to thinking I have all these relays for fans, and head lights as well as a bunch of fuses for same and I want to use fuses for the main B+ line for the AAW engine harness as well as the Alternator instead of fusible links. Basically a bunch of fuses and relays. I already hid my MSD ignition and Spal fan controller in the front corner (passenger side) near the stock battery location. There was just enough space between them and the radiator to stick all this stuff. But since I am trying to hide all the electrical and routing it around the inner fenders I figured I would hide all these fuses and relays in a box.

First I found this for my fuse requirements:
http://bluesea.com/files/images/prod...48_182x182.jpg
http://bluesea.com/products/7748

I was needing something that could handle 150amps for my alternator, as well as going down to 30amp fuses for a bunch of relays and ignition etc. Even has a negative bus bar as well. Can handle 6x ATO (1-30A) fuses and 4x MIDI (30-200A) fuses, perfect for my application.

This is what I have so far:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox001.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox002.jpg

Able to pack quite a lot in a small package. Basically the big 2gauge red at the far left feeds the main fuse box, the other 2 gauge is fused at 150amp for alternator input, black 2 gauge feeds the negative bus bar. I have a 60amp fuse for the main B+ line of the AAW engine harness, 30amp MIDI fuse for the MSD ignition. One 30amp fuse for the headlight relays and 2x 30amp fuses for the electric fans. Still have room for 4 more fuses for expandability in the future.

I'll end up painting the box black and should hopefully disappear on the radiator support. I'll make some stand-offs out of 1" aluminum round stock to mount the box:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox003.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox004.jpg

Also put some metri-pack connectors on the low current wires so I can pull the box easily if needed.