Thanks guys! I really appreciate the tricks of the trade input. I was experiencing build up when the spacing tightened up using the alternating method. I'll try the sequential mode in my next lesson.

Nit-picking - I wish my little Lincoln 135+ used a numerical scale for amperage vs. the A-B-C-D, it reminds me of dialing a phone number by alphabet. :(

I also need to fab a "water dobber bottle" as the damp towel method makes the procedure even slower. I have a felted wool area rug with 1/2" dia. tufts that may work as a donor. :unibrow:

Compressed air is better. It works faster and does not create rust.

I will say it again and it keeps getting forgotten due to the difficulty of skill, But Learning to TIG weld this stuff is way better. Once you Learn to work with the TIG you will never go back, unless the situation needs it. It is worth the effort.

I don't care who you are, You will never have the results with the MIG you can have with the TIG. Both processes can be done at Home without a problem.

Now you're exploiting my handicaps, Tigless with a small compressor. :D
A baby Thermal Arc 185 tig is definitely on the want list. Though I do like the challenge of making the mig work in this application. When I bought the mig I thought it would suffice, I quickly learned a lot of the "stuff" I envisioned doing was smaller scale and required a tig to deliver satisfactory appearance in my eyes. :( It's still fun improving the skillsets, but funding the recreation gets spendy fast!

Some of the hand-welded titanium tig work produced by Akrapovic on motorcycle exhausts is just pure artwork in my eyes.

Thanks for the input, I can't learn enough. :thumbsup:

Just wanted to also say thank you for all the great information provided in this thread. It's nice to see so much help and advice from the more experienced members on here.

I'm wondering what some of the experts think of learning on thicker stuff and then working up to the thinner stuff as you get familiar with the process. I had an old flat fender Jeep before my Camaro which was just going to be a beater until I had so much fun learning how to weld it turned into a complete reconstuction. In the beginning I had a much easier time with the .120 wall stuff. Once I got to the sheet metal I kind of had some the motor skills down at least.

Maybe a topic for another thread but with the suggestion of moving to TIG, is there any type of machine you guys would suggest for the home user? I've looked at the new inverter TIG's, like the size, cost etc. of those. Would one of them do everything you need on a car project?

Thanks again, and keep the good info coming, please!

Erik - This started out as mig/tig, so I'd say tig discussion is legal. I've been researching tig's for a while now, what I perceive to be one of the nicer "hobbiest" tig machines is the Thermal Arc 185 kit. http://www.thermadyne.com/thermalarc...dID=10-3073A-2

A comparable Miller would be my next choice.

I too cannot say enough about the knowledge I've gained thanks to the generosity, patience, and understanding of some of the many very talented Lat-G members. I'm forever grateful to the many willing to share their talents and help me learn. :thumbsup:

I have the Miller Diversion 165 and LOVE it for project use!!! :thumbsup:

Now they have the 180 out too which comes with a foot pedal so I would go that route. Anyway, that little 165 has never missed a beat and I have used it pretty hard for extended periods of time. I think Miller has under rated teh duty cycle rating but I can understand why. I do have to say though, after running a Miller Sync250 I do find myself wanting more power from time to time but for the most part we are talking projects that are slightly out of the "norm" for a car project.

Chris

Well, here we go. Just did this tonight. This was all using the TIG machine. Now take this for what it is worth, I have only burned about 6 filler rods with this thing. Oh, sorry for so many pics, I wanted to show every step. I am putting Bear Claw latches in the truck. This is just an example of filling one bolt hole, but illustrates the process ok I think.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4882.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4884.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4885.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4886.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4888.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4889.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4890.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4891.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4896.jpg

This is the back side of that hole inside the door.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_4895.jpg

So let me have it, what looks right and what looks wrong? I have a lot of welding to do! Thanks for any input.

Oh........ I think we have a new member of "TIGS R US".... :woot:

Once you go TIG you find it harder and harder to pick up the squeeze machine.
:D

Remember -- ALL welding... rule #1 if at all possible.... CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN metal... and even cleaner for TIG. MIG lets you get away with murder... TIG will kick your butt on dirty stuff.

Chad, your's looks like a real project! :D I can sure see the benefits of TIG in this situation, thorough penetration and less material deposited on the top side of the work. Doesn't look too bad to my unexperienced eye, only thing I would question based on Greg's (Mr Clean) statements is in the last photo, the backside of the door material could have been sanded clean.......??

OK, here's tonights MIG 101 attempt:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/Welding...22_oARAk-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/Welding...78_ZkK27-L.jpg

Penetration appears a little lite in areas, but close?

Or........should I take two weeks off then buy a Thermal Arc 185 or Miller 180? :D Reality is I need a RS600 more than a TIG right now. :unibrow: