Nice trailer Lenie Good luck with it.

Anybody use or have thoughts about the "anti-sway" or "load stabilizer" bars that I've seen used? Some are pretty simple, some very complex. There's even a single sided attachment targeted specifically at anti sway (I've never had much of a sway problem as long as the tongue is weighted properly).

One of the simple designs....
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../407702296.jpg


Jeff-

I wouldn't spend the money on these until you've actually hauled with a loaded trailer... because it all depends on the trailer and the truck combo whether or not you need it.

My short bed crew cab Dodge 2500 (single wheel rear) needed it --- my Dually F-350 did not -- same trailer same load.

Brother in laws Ford F-250 needed it towing his old trailer -- but hasn't used it since he got my old trailer...

BTW --- The SWAY CONTROL DEVICE is a total PITA.... it's just a bar that slides between an adjustable "brake/friction" surface. You have to stop and remove it before backing etc.

If I had a trailer that needed that (which is separate from the load leveling hitch) I'd sell it before I'd add that. No good trailer should have to have that.

This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...

I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../407702975.jpg


Jeff-

Loading the rear of the tow vehicle down one inch is almost PERFECT.... the "tongue" should have 10% of the load on it. So 6,000 pound load should have 600 pounds of weight on the tongue of the trailer.


If the trailer doesn't sway --- and some do! --- and the front of the tow vehicle isn't getting "light" and becoming a "too much steering input" issue.... Then I'd say you've got no problems.


NOTE: Too LITTLE air pressure is the biggest cause of tire failure -- so when towing ALWAYS fill your tires with the proper air for TOWING..... A stiffer sidewall (more air pressure) will also help with trailer handling. I actually adjust my tire pressures depending on the season -- I use more pressure in the winter than in the summer... because the HEAT of the roads etc changes the "running" pressures. I run 105 pounds in the front in the summer and 110 in the winter on "the rig".

Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too

This was my first tow since I bought the truck, I had been warned that the 6.0 was gonna drink gas and have no real power... it did absolutely fine. I didn't put pen to paper but a 3 hour round trip on a 1/4 tank of gas is not "drinking". I really don't think the Dmax dually I had would have done much better. Plus, this Quadrasteer ruins you.


Jeff-

I think the TOW RIG is all about where a guy lives and how many times he's actually going to use it.... In the Northwest -- we have MAJOR grades 5/6/7% -- and one after the other if you're going south on I-5 thru the Siskiyou's and then over Mt Shasta... and further south over "the grapevine" to LA area

If I go East -- I immediately have to pull a grade -- and if I go North - I am winding thru the mountains.... So basically I can't go anywhere FLAT or thru ROLLING hills.... People here need real pulling power and even more important the brakes that come along with that power.

I once -- and only once -- used my Denali 6.0 to pull an open flatbed trailer with a '69 Camaro (big block) over the Grapevine to LA --- I was WOT doing 35 mph and if I lifted I was sure I was going to go backwards....