Lateral-g Forums - 1969 Camaro tru-turn

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- - 1969 Camaro tru-turn (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44918)

GLR0212- What brake setup are you running? Do you know how much the brakes offset the mounting surface from the stock location?

GLR0212- You keep showing the same picture of our 69. The fact is that there IS clearance, even in that picture. Maybe it's not a great angle, but I watched over Rod as he did this. . .it is my job. And I assure you there is room to put your hand in there. . .not a ton of room, but room enough.

You must remember, this is an upgrade to allow you to wedge a 275 tire under an OE subframe. There's no doubt it's tight. Of course DSE is going to have more clearance. . .they had the ability to move the frame rails and other parts. We are still dealing with the stock locations.

First, we need to figure out how far out the brakes have moved the wheels (if at all).
Then we need to add -1.0 to -1.5 degrees negative camber (this is the BIGGEST part of making this work!) Those that want to put a 275 under the front are typically building a "track" car and need the negative camber anyway.
Finally you'll need to remove/replace the fender bolt and roll the fender lip.

I understand the 67/68 wheel opening is more round than the 69 and the 69 hangs down over the tire more. However, the 69 fender is pushed out further than the early cars.

I have done some of the extra work here to give everyone one a LOT more info....you have the measurement?? 15 1/8 inches simple if its more than that...then we need to figure out your offset, if it is the same 15 1/8 inches, then you have the wrong offset rims, also simple just re-hoop the wheels, forgeline (or most forge rim builders will re-hoop at minimal cost) and then you can run fatty rims, and Impress friends and influence enemies

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod P (Post 534687)

on a addendum note, so after looking over different installs, my recommendation to EVERYONE is to measure your own car for its back spacing the one biggest factor I found in the installs is the brake packages that are used I found the some CPP brake kits with hubs pushes out the wheel mounting surface just over a 1/4 inch, and the some willwood kits push the mounting surface out almost a 1/2 inch, so unless you know that (you measured) the wheel mounting surface is still in the original location or you are using the very same Baer Brake package we used the 5.75 suggestion would be off by 1/2 inch, also please use the alignment settings given, make sure the sheet metal on your car is aligned, have good body bushings, the tru-turn kit pushes the tire width limit of a stock frame to max performance, so the rest of the assembly needs to be of the same caliber

This probably explains my situation with the additional 1/4"....I already had a CPP brake kit installed prior to purchasing the TruTurn system, although the CPP rep stated the kit did not change track width. I wish I had those measurements of track width prior to ordering wheels, I would have liked a 10". Since putting a 275 on the front with stock frame is pushing the limits, there is obviously no room for error. It would be great if Ridetech could help out us amateur hotrodders and add a technical page with the details.

Im still working on my inner fender to tire clearance issues but I didnt find out the Wilwood brakes add .38 of a inch to each side. If I would have realized this before ordering me wheels I could have just ordered wheels with a 1/2 inch more backspace and Im betting I would have plenty of clearance. I did call Baer and they state they do not change the track width at all.

I do think it would be very helpful if ridetech could call out we should be aware of the brake kit that is used and and be mindful of any extra track with that is added when ordering your wheels. It sure could have saved me some trouble.

Also, the tire selection may make a difference, since this system pushes the limits with the stock subframe. Tire section widths vary by manufacturer and that Falken tire shown in the pictures has a more rounded tread shoulder than the KDW's I have.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwylie (Post 537920)

I do think it would be very helpful if ridetech could call out we should be aware of the brake kit that is used and and be mindful of any extra track with that is added when ordering your wheels. It sure could have saved me some trouble.

we did? that's what this whole thread is about and you have said the same thing over and over...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod P (Post 537794)

..you have the measurement?? 15 1/8 inches simple if its more than that...then we need to figure out your offset, if it is the same 15 1/8 inches, then you have the wrong offset rims, also simple just re-hoop the wheels, forgeline (or most forge rim builders will re-hoop at minimal cost) and then you can run fatty rims, and Impress friends and influence enemies

didn't you have the 5.250 backspace rims?? I'm the NEW guy but I will tell you if that's your backspace, your rims wont fit you have the wrong backspacing, you read the offset incorrectly you say you have 5.250 because you wanted them .500(1/2) narrower than 5.750, you went the wrong way, to be narrower(more fender space) by .500(1/2) you should have ordered 6.250...the 5.250 is very close to what I have but even then you're still to wide....RideTech recommends 5.750 back space

And they say anyone can build one of these cars, IT's easy, why should I pay you to do it??

CUZ THAT'S WHAT WE (the builders and manufacturers on here. not just Speedtech) DO

no disrespect to the posters but in this game it is ALL about the measurements

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blake Foster (Post 537988)

:lmao: tape measure! cheap tool that makes you look smart and makes parts fit

Notfernuthin but.....

I'm at a loss as to why someone wouldn't think this would have an impact.