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Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 462013)

Finally got to take a drive! Up to temp still hollow off idle, pulled over added 1/8 to the fuel screws, few miles on the highway, added another 1/8 turn and it's close!!! Possibly a little richer on the fuel screws or maybe an 1/8 turn tighter on the primary accelerator pump and bingo! 1,800 rpm in 6th was not as good as it could be, 2,100 in 5th good comfy cruise throttle at 63 mph. 3rd gear 4K hard roll on was........http://www.advrider.com/forums/image...ies/lieb62.gif

Now I can relax and start tuning this clunker! :woot: :woot:

Glad to hear it's getting closer. They are just motors - air - fuel - spark.... eventually it all has to come together! :popcorn2:

When you think the fuel screws are close, try something. With the engine off, screw each screw all the way in and count the turns. after recording that, put them back to where you had them. With the engine warm and idling, check your fuel bowl level and idle speed to make sure they are correct. Now hook a vacuum gauge to the vacuum port on the side of the metering block. Now turn one screw in until the car starts to stumble then back out. Keep turning it out until the engine smooths and you obtain the highest vacuum reading. As soon as you get the highest reading, stop. If the idle is now a bit above where it was, back the idle back down to where you wanted it. Then go to the other screw and do the same thing. When you get the highest vacuum stop turning that screw. Again if the rpm is higher than you want, readjust it back to where you want With the idle adjuster screw. Go back to the other side and turn it in and out slightly to see if you can improve the vacuum reading. Maintain the highest vacuum reading you can. Go to the other side and do the same thing. When you are done, recap the vacuum port and take it for a ride. If you accelerator pump is adjusted close you should have a good crisp throttle. If this doesn't work for you, you can always go back to where you recorded the position of the screws before. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 462036)

If you saw it right now you'd swear it was grey and the trailer was brown. It ain't as much dirt as it is GRIT. WTF I just parked it and flew back to SV. Maybe the Seattle rain will knock the chunks off while I'm gone. :thumbsup:

SV - Good for you! :thumbsup:

:idea: Maybe you need to send Gwen's Pool Boy to detailing school?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccracin (Post 462048)

When you think the fuel screws are close, try something. With the engine off, screw each screw all the way in and count the turns. after recording that, put them back to where you had them. With the engine warm and idling, check your fuel bowl level and idle speed to make sure they are correct. Now hook a vacuum gauge to the vacuum port on the side of the metering block. Now turn one screw in until the car starts to stumble then back out. Keep turning it out until the engine smooths and you obtain the highest vacuum reading. As soon as you get the highest reading, stop. If the idle is now a bit above where it was, back the idle back down to where you wanted it. Then go to the other screw and do the same thing. When you get the highest vacuum stop turning that screw. Again if the rpm is higher than you want, readjust it back to where you want With the idle adjuster screw. Go back to the other side and turn it in and out slightly to see if you can improve the vacuum reading. Maintain the highest vacuum reading you can. Go to the other side and do the same thing. When you are done, recap the vacuum port and take it for a ride. If your accelerator pump is adjusted close you should have a good crisp throttle. If this doesn't work for you, you can always go back to where you recorded the position of the screws before. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Thanks Chad - That's basically my procedure but this carb has the idle bypass valve circuit in the baseplate so it finding the traditional happy places has another new element to me. Right now I'm roughly 3-3 1/8 turns out and just a hair above 10" on the vac gauge @ 1K rpm. I've been adjusting all fuel screws equally to find a base which I think I now have and can dial them by ear and guage individually now. I don't think this cam will give much more than 11" - 11.5", but the new heads and manifold add yet another unknown element. :D

Just took another test drive and it is better and feels pretty strong in the upper rpm range of 3rd & 4th with out of the box jetting. The RPM Air Gap manifold is definitely an improvement over the old Torker II.

Can't wait for better weather and a free day to nothing but test and tune!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 462060)

I figured you had it! I went through multiple methods when we were racing stock cars. It was tough because we had to run restriction plates and the vacuum signal was very strong above the plate. You're on it man keep having fun! :thumbsup:

Fired it up yesterday in an attempt to fine tune the fuel screws and max the idle vacuum. Notice the linkage was binding and restricting low speed idle adjustment range (950 rpm and lower), resolved that by bending the throttle rod, then checked the range on each fuel screw and balanced, rechecked range, but it just isn't acting right. Vague input response may best describe it. Based on pressure readings when I started this mess it was a consistent 5 psi while idling, yesterday it was showing 3.5 psi at 1K rpm so the old Holley pump may be failing......epic timing. :headscratch: Ordered a new fuel pump last night to eliminate pressure concerns. Holley mechanical that (per Holley) doesn't require a regulator and delivers 6.5-8 psi max and 110 gph.

Old pumps and new fuel.....

Good to replace it and ANY old rubber fuel line. Had one buddy chasing a fueling issue - replaced pump TWICE -- turns out the insides of the 50 year old factory rubber lines (that connected the steel lines) had failed and was acting like a check valve.

Any more - I only use PTFE lined braided if I need a wobble point.

BTW - I'm no carb guy -- but I thought that the air bleeds (not to be confused with idle fuel adjustment screws) were there to overcome big azz cams that just couldn't be tamed with the idle screws. Since we know that carbs work via vacuum (actually low pressure in the ventures) -- any source of vacuum (air) leak is going cause you to have to fatten the idle screws and is going to also cause a higher idle.

Might just try to plug them temporarily and see what happens to the response and idle adjustment??

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 462351)

E10 may have finally gotten to it, we'll see.

There's no OEM rubber on it, the tank to hard line is the oldest, I just replaced the rubber line between the fuel pump and hard line which was installed at the same time and it appeared OK just a little hardened.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 462353)

The only vac leak I know of would be from the baseplate and spacer and I checked those surfaces with a straight edge. This carb has no vac ports. PCV and gauge vacuum come off the intake manifold behind the carb.

The idle bypass valve is what I don't have a good feel for yet. Holley tech said the there's no relationship between fuel screws and this circuit? But when you open up that valve it creates a lean idle similar to a vacuum leak.

Being patient......should have the pump in two days.

Yes...........Fast EZ-efi would be nice but way too simple and............:G-Dub:

When I say vacuum leak. I mean ANYWHERE air is allowed into the engine. I don't just mean a bad seal.... The air bleeds are technically a "controlled" vacuum leak... As is a PCV etc.