Thanks. One of the good features of Shaun's system, is that I do not have to cut off the coil spring support, and he is easy to get a hold of on the phone.

He also custom ordered my brake system, a couple years ago, and it's awesome.

Should be deciding in a day or so.

I also heard news that the pistons arrived and the crank has already been sent out for balancing

With the upgraded electronic sequential LED brake lights and turn signals, the old style turn signal clicker is not used.
Not that I could hear it anyway, but I have found myself driving down the road, with the turn signal left on.
I always feel a little dumb:goofy: when that happens.

So I had always wanted to update this, and make an electronic (sound) indicator, which is loud enough to hear over the engine.

Well I bought a cheap flasher housing.

Gutted it.

Filled it with a piezo buzzer, capcitor, some resistors, a couple diodes and a bit of heat shrink.

Voila, an electronic turn signal indicator, that won't mess up the led flasher.
It should mount on the stock dash location.

The tiny hole is where the sound comes out.

The capacitor makes the buzzer sound a little more like a fading bell sound

diodes make sure the current does not come back out of the new chime and f-up the rest of the system

Once the car is running, we shall see how it works, and sounds.

I guess I am finally getting into the spirit of getting the car, finally back on the road again.

I wired in the new signal indicator, and confirmed the coilover order yesterday.

After reading the instructions this morning, the assembly is integrated with the export brace. This means it's a little more work to re&re the engine with the coilover system.

But after a little thought I decide to get the billet shock tower brace. That way I can mount the coilovers permanently and just remove the braces, for popping the engine in and out.

It's a pretty nice piece and the right decision, I think.

Shaun's cowl bracket is one of the nicer pieces out there.

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...ort-brace8.jpg

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...port-brace.jpg

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...ort-brace2.jpg

I think a lot of vintage racers cut some fast laps on leaf springs and modified OEM mustang front ends. As long as the upper mounting point is lowered to get some camber gain and the shock dampening is dialed in it should work well.
With that kit you get better bushings and less flex in the control arms along with a longer shock body with the ability to revalve as needed.

The drawbacks are the old Mustang spindle and the retention of the shock towers and stock frame rails which limit your ability to stuff a large tire up front.

In your case you have a nice front brake package for that spindle so that drawback is a plus of sorts.

You also have a nice set of wheels and a decent sized front tire so the kit makes sense.

I think you will be happy with it overall. :thumbsup:

^ Spoken like a true Ford guy ;)

Ha ha :)

I should see the suspension parts just after the weekend :ups:

Next I got an email from Brent saying the crankshaft will be ready shortly. Possibly going to freshen up the polish on the chrome, aluminum and engine bling, before reassembly.

definitely I miss driving the car, now that we are getting out of the rainy weather, finally. I'm jealous of all the guys with the nice vintage muscle cars roaring around

I think you'll like the kit. Im using the Total Control Products front suspension on mine and think it handles great. (Virtually the same thing) I did however go to a Fatman dropped spindle to get my ride height. I currently run a 265/35-18 and have plans to change to 275 soon enough. There is enough room under there, you just have to NAIL the backspacing.

The export brace setup is awesome. I almost purchased it for my mav but there were too many differences between the Mustang and Mav firewalls to make it work. I might go back and purchase the shock tower plate and rods later if he'll break up a kit though.

Too bad the Maverick is not as similar in dimensions, to the mustang. That'd make it a lot easier.

I like your Maverick BTW !

For backspace, I used a 95-98 mustang wheel with a cut and weld on the inner rim, and machining on the hub face of the wheel, to go as deep as I could.
I'm not sure how that wheel fits on the maverick.

I did a lot of calculation, with wheel and backspace combinations, before cutting the wheels.

After I got it all together, I ended up pulling the wheel in a little tighter with the hub face machining. I'm maxed out with the 17's and the UCA's now. I'd have to go 20's to go deeper. Honestly I don't want to go 20's on the car. 18's max, and that doesn't gain me enough to switch.

http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCN0768.jpg

I'm pretty happy with where I am now, but I run a race camber spec to make it all work and not rub anywhere

While I am waiting for the engine;

My new high horsepower wheels.

http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...psfba03d75.jpg

A little quieter than the Mustang, but easier on gas

A Kona Mountain Bike - Man it's hard to find a Kona dealer around here.

Nice to see a fellow rider into cars.