:popcorn2:

Depends on your skill set...the goal is to have the inner wheel house go straight all the way up. You could cut it out, hammer massage the roll in it then fit it back up.

I usually cut the wheel lip off ( leave a 1/4" to the outer quarter panel) and weld in a piece of 3/16" cold rolled rod to it. Then make a new outer wheel house section and weld that to the top of the 3/16" rod. It makes a nice smooth transition.

If you want the fat tires you gotta do the work.

Using the rod sounds like a very good plan. I'll see what I can do. Even without the skills I'll still try it and see what happens....

Keep at it, you'll definitely get it done.

Nice Marty!

I like Vince's approach. Seems to create the most clearance. :superhack:

Ended up cutting all but ~3/16 of the wheel lip out and leaving the inner fender as is. The inner fender follows the contour if the qtr panel so any more change would mean a paint job which isn't in the budget right now. I also cut ~3/16 out of the floor behind the wheel tubs which allowed me to stretch the tub for a little more clearance.

Looks like a 12.5x 18 with 7 3/8 BS is perfect. With this spacing I have ~3/8 room all around for tire flex. Based on discussions with Travis at Formula 43 1/4' tire flex should be expected. I'm thinking to order 7.5" BS and plan to use a 1/8 spacer

Still debating on the front. Looks like 18x10 with 6.75 BS is best for the outer clearance but the wheel tool hits the sway bar and lower control arm at full lock. Think I need to pull the inner fenders tomorrow to see what mods can be done.

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looking good!!

You can always narrow your rear end housing 2" on each side and run a 5 3/8" back space....:thankyou:

It's narrowed 1" each side already and cost far too much to have built. I'll stick with what I have for now.

I was mostly teezing.