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Awe Sieg, I feel for you. :mad:
That had to sting a little to start smacking shiny parts so soon after :G-Dub: |
I'd have lit up my oxy acetylene torch... Metal
Bends easy when it's glowing like a cherry!!! Hahahaha That sucks but is "hot rodding". |
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I have a map gas torch but the angle wasn't the best, besides I don't like playing with fire that much any more........and Norwood was starting to piss me off so hammering on him a bit was good therapy. :D That plug cap was arcing and causing a slight miss. I went from 70 to 67 air bleeds. Idle now has a little meat to it. Tighten the accel pump a little. It's getting better. Next will be going to 5.0 power valves from 5.5's. I'll probably get some 65 air bleeds just to test as the idle by-pass valve is about a 1/2 turn from closed out of a 5 turn range. |
Ya might of knocked some sense into the carb too, all that energy right into the combustion chamber, through the intake, and Bam. She'll run better.....:warning:
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It hurt but at least its good now.
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For the off-idle flat spot the pump linkage adjustment, squirter size, and pump cams are what I use fine tune. I'm hoping it's in the ballpark and I can start fine tuning when the weather improves. |
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Scott, you are going through exactly the same things that I'm going through on my car, so I love this thread!!
I'm not an experienced carb tuner guy and after purchasing a Holley 4150 DP from Patrick at Pro Systems I'm into all sorts of tuning territory I've never been to before. I installed a wideband O2 sensor which really helped get a hand on some things like the power valve choice. When you are driving the car, you can actually see when the power valve opens by watching the gauge!! The carb shipped with a 5.5 PV incorrectly, which I've bumped up to a 7.5, and I changed out the idle air bleeds a couple times as well to get rid of a pig rich idle -- so I feel your pain :bang: Keep on working at it!! :thankyou: |
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