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On #2, while lower and setback of motor is excellent, I did not like a really shallow pan from my research for road course. They are available from Canton, Aviaid, etc. but I read about and talked to a couple of the dry sump companies and more specifically about location of pickups. 99% of the pans out there have pick ups on one side it seems (passenger) so I'll pick up that research again later but I'll likely get one done with the pickups right where I want them. |
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They race Sonoma, Watkins Glen, Road America and Montreal. From what I've been told the low pan isn't an issue when engineered properly. a big piece of the puzzle is properly designed tank that is large enough to eliminate the aeration created when there isn't oil at the pickup. Remember in a dry sump the oil/air is pulled out of the pan and sent to a remote tank. As long as the tank pickup point provides oil and not an oil/air mix your motor is getting the proper lube it needs. I'm not saying the pickup location in the pan aren't important. I'm just saying they aren't important from the same perspective as in a wet sump. At least that is how I understand it. But I'm only an assembler so I'm always open to enlightenment. :lol: :thumbsup: |
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Yes the pickup points is an apples to oranges vs wet sump, but when I explained my goals/intentions with the car I was told a typical Nascar pan with pickup locations was not ideal, but they probably would be okay. I would want to be more than "probably okay". :D I was going to just have them add or relocate one of the pickups. Not a huge cost and still way cheaper than buying a brand new custom pan at over $1000. Those damn assemblers... always meddling in others' bidness. :rofl: |
Three things from the assembler bleachers
1 I wouldn't look for the "typical" NASCAR pan. The road race Nascar pans are probably different than the roundy round ones. I know they use different styles of radiators for each type of track I'm sure the pans are specific. :D 2 Even for my FE the pans are typically cheaper than $1k unless you are going for a billet pan. :question: 3 This thread is trending too much towards you build so I imagine DB Cooper and crew will be jumping in soon to get us back off topic. :rofl: |
This is the pan that I am using. 7 quart, 5 trap doors, bung for oil temp sender.
http://pitstopusa.com/images/M14593491.jpg |
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Shane |
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Question. Now, I come from LS land, so I'm not that familiar with good ol' small blocks, but the 180 degree thermostat seems low to me. What were your oil temps getting to when your old engine was still in good working condition? Matt |
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1 - I looked for countless pans. I bet I am second to none in hours spent scouring for good used parts. Seriously, I am a legend in that department. :lol: 2 - The nice used pans I was finding for $250-350 sell for over $1000 new. They are amazing quality. Here is an example of one made by Weiss and it is top notch (verified by their competitor who I called. LOL) http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...h68/A43006.jpg 3 - No comment. :willy: Quote:
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I'm debating where to mount my Accusump right now. I like where Weld's is mounted but I don't like oil and fuel in the passenger compartment. Still I'm considering it, or possibly right behind the rear firewall. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...8/DSCF4033.jpg I read about LS guys on the Corvette Forum running their oil temps up to near 300 all the time, ideally not sustained, but still most of them don't seem to care too much. When I am up to temp on the street and track, water is 180-190 and oil is 220-240. Right where it should be ideally and where it is for Gaetano and that's who I mimicked my system after. He has the same Stat and a Setrab cooler. I at first was worried this system did not perform well enough but after the motor revealed serious detonation that seems to explain the issue. I was not having temp issues until about 3rd lap of the 2 sessions that went bad. Very bad. :willy: |
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